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8.2L Detroit No Start

terex herder

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I've got one of those engines in an '89 7000 flatbed. Yes, the solenoid clicks hard on mine. Gutless wonder, but it gets less than 2 months usage/year and less than 1000 miles. I'll run it until it dies.
 

RZucker

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Is it electronic governor or mechanical?
I'm going to be very polite here... GET THE INJECTORS UNSTUCK!. If indeed this is some potentiometer controlled fuel system the injectors are controlled by a stepper motor most likely and all you are doing so far is shortening its life. If the racks wont move, asking a ton of questions that have already been answered is not going to help.
I'm going to add here that you are especially lucky that those engines were limiting speed governors that went to shut down as a default. If they were stuck wide open like a Variable speed governor, your engine would now be in orbit.
 
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OmniEquipped

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I'm going to be very polite here... GET THE INJECTORS UNSTUCK!. If indeed this is some potentiometer controlled fuel system the injectors are controlled by a stepper motor most likely and all you are doing so far is shortening its life. If the racks wont move, asking a ton of questions that have already been answered is not going to help.
I'm going to add here that you are especially lucky that those engines were limiting speed governors that went to shut down as a default. If they were stuck wide open like a Variable speed governor, your engine would now be in orbit.

Ok, racks free. Done. All I'm asking (that hasn't been answered) is should there be key-on noise/movement from the electronic governor like the mechanical one? If so, that's the damn problem.
 

OmniEquipped

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I reckon it's solved.

So given the way it works it obviously *has to* move the racks with either key-on or engine movement which it does not. So I went to test the outputs on the circuit board and it put me in mind of a CDI and how it can arc internally (if you've ever had one apart, it's basically a series of capacitors on a circuit board potted in silicone...very simple for how expensive they are). So on a whim, before I pulled it off I cupped my hands over it (to make it dark) and had my helper spin it over. I can see a spark under the silicone...not every time but about every other key cycle. Appears to be coming from a capacitor about an inch below the red and black input wires. I'm not showing output, so I guess it's shorted.

Thanks for all the comments, and for that fella not blowing a gasket even though I had the rack linkage unhooked so wasn't short-living anything except for my back from leaning down in the engine compartment.

The truck will probably see the scales...unless I can off load it on one of you guys? LOL
 

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JPV

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So are you saying it isn't worth fixing? I was hoping you would and report back on what it took. Although I probably will never see one, at least I hope not!
 

OmniEquipped

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Is it worth me fixing? No. Is it worth a buyer fixing? Maybe. It's gonna take a governor...or at least a circuit board, and I called around and was told it's probably obsolete. A re-man mechanical governor (which may or may not work right with the bucket equipment) is about $800. So at a minimum a buyer can figure purchase price plus $800 to get it running. Purchase price is hard to determine when it's not running...it's only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. I'll research similar trucks and calculate scrap value and come up with something.

If you need the trees in your yard trimmed it would pay for itself in one use for what it costs to have big trees trimmed these days. ...granted everything still worked on it.
 

RZucker

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Why don't you call the bucket manufacturer and ask them if its their modification? I'm still leaning in that direction. There was no need for any electronic controls on a regular road truck.
By the way, do you have any Emergency shutdown buttons that need to be reset? Saw that on a late model Ford with an E-stop in the bucket.
 
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OmniEquipped

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Good question. I didn't see an E-stop...checked bucket controls, ground controls, and cab. At any rate, there's only two wires going into the governor: key on 12v and a ground. I'm getting voltage and ground, so I don't think anything is interfering between the key switch and the governor.

I may call the bucket manufacturer as you suggest. I've also got a number to a Detroit engine re-manufacturer that sells 8.2s. If the internals were the only difference, I'd suspect the bucket manufacture's modification. But the aluminum housing is different than the mechanical govs and it has a Detroit logo cast in it.

If I find out anything, I'll post it...in case it helps someone in the future.
 

OmniEquipped

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I called an authorized Detroit service dealer and spoke to the parts manager. The electronic governor was developed for vocational trucks. It's a Detroit item and is obsolete. They are programmed to hold certain RPM or to govern speed. He indicated that the programming may not be one size fits all which leads me to believe the programming is adjustable...probably by hooking a tool into the diagnostic port on the left side of the governor? Anyway, he said he has a used one that he believes came off a running engine but said he can't guarantee it's programed the same as mine or would even work...and he wants a few hundred bucks for it. Fair price IF it works, but it's a gamble. I'll have to think on it.
 

Scooter777

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Hello did you ever get the issue resolved? I’m having the same issue with mine it looks the same as yours
 

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