580E Power Shuttle Leak

[alrman]

On the solonoid I usually use a large pair of muti-grips - pipe wrench would be fine - on the smooth part of solonoid.
I use an 18" shifter - (cresent wrench US terminology?) on the nut (bigger size than fitting) for the oil filler pipe & a 1 1/2" on the fitting.

 

[rbmiles1]

I just got all of my parts today (seal kits for all cylinders and the O rings for the shuttle valve). Unfortunately, it's not going to get above 20 degrees here in CT for the next few days so I'm gonna hold off for warmer weather.

I was thinking that a smaller oil filter wrench might be able to grab the solonoid?

 

[bowen]

I was thinking that a smaller oil filter wrench might be able to grab the solonoid?

It's 20 degrees here this morning also.
I went last night and got me a larger wrench set.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-sae-jumbo-combination-wrench-set-925.html

I got lots of tools, but I normally use smaller wrenches. Working on these machines is a new deal for me.
It's wild that they can sell a set like this for $40.

I'm gonna try a pipe wrench on the solenoid and hope the teeth won't hurt the solenoid. I don't know how hard it is to screw off.
I did find the solenoid wire disconnect connection up on top of the shuttle.
Mine also has another sensor of some sort just above the linkage on the left side. This will not have to be removed at all, but I want to know what it it is, because I have one cut wire hanging down in that area.
I got a small wire brush to clean all the dirt/oil off so I can tell what it looks like.

 

[TheOldMan]

I used a large pair of channel locks on the solenoid. It wasn't very tight, and I just snugged it up the same way. Be very careful when you remove it, there is a ball and spring detent between the control arm and the case, behind the solenoid. Check the spring, mine was only half there. New spring and ball, and it detents so definite I can't believe it.

 

[rbmiles1]

Well I didn't do the O rings in the shuttle yet but I did rebuild my first cylinder (steering). Figured I'd start small. Check out how the old O Ring had poped out. I guess I know why it was leaking. lol.

 

[rbmiles1]

 

[bowen]

Exactly, I have never found an aftermarket source for them - always fitted genuine - if anyone can find one I'm sure bowen will.

Well I sorta found it, but not aftermarket; rather where Case gets it.
I am 95% sure Cutler Hammer (Eaton) makes this and it may be a special.
I was looking to buy a #W101P6-CX switch, but any version of the W101P would work.
These are hard to find as I think they may be sold mostly to the Aeronautical division. Maybe for planes or rockets and they are still high US $ wherever you find them.


I ordered mine from Newark Electronics. They show like $46.80 via this link, but I got a discount for my business with them.
Newark was just the only place I found that had any stock, yet normally Newark is NOT cheap on anything, they just have TONS of inventory.

http://www.newark.com/eaton/w101p3/switch-pushbutton-spst-no-10a-125v/dp/97F9019

It's a # W101P3, which has a slightly different sized/color button on top.
The other difference is that the Case switch has flats for a wrench to tighten the button.
(This is just aluminum and I will file off 2 places.)
I have not installed this yet so I can't be 100% sure the threads are the same.
But the little tiny screws are in the hardware along with soldier tabs which I should not need because my wire ends are there.
This button is rated 5 Amps which is barely enough, and the DC rating is what makes it hard to find.
You will find $3 switches even on Amazon but with AC ratings, or maybe 2 amps DC.
My large solenoid pulls 4 amps when energized, and this is probably why these buttons fail. It's probably better to use the floor switch which is parallel and has a higher rating.

So I saved a few bucks, but in hind sight paying Case $62 for this switch is not so out of line as I thought.
Case probably buys these in lots of 100 and pays $15 each.

Actually I got a lead on this place that may have these switches cheaper.
http://www.cymparts.com/index.php?ws=showproducts&products_id=55423&cat=&subcat=&lang=
But, I have never gotten any response from these folks which show the actual Case part number.
If anyone reading this is in Malaysia, please call these folks and get a price.
Cutler Hammer may be having the switches made in Malaylia..

BTW the new switch has a loud snap when you press it in. If you cannot hear and feel the snap, your switch is probably bad.

 

[bowen]

580SE Solenoid Thunb Button

:update
Just in case someone comes across this thread in the future...
My OLD switch was made by a company called "Otto" and I think they still sell it.



And the information/ratings I see on on this switch looks like a better choice than the Cutler Hammer. (which worked with no problems)
For otto, it looks like this switch with the flat spots for a wrench is callled a "Special Shaped Bezel"
From the "www.ottoexcellence.com" website I found only one place that might stock the switch and it's "www.hawkusa.com"
If you just buy 1 they are $55, but if you get 10 they are like $11 each.
I think Hawk Electronics is in IL.

The photo above shows this to be a # P3-30017 which is confusing from the nomenclature breakdown.
I would have selected a # P3-31111, which is a style 3, soldier, 1-N/O, 2.5Lbs/momenary, with a red button, but this does not have the flats.
Before anyone orders a bunch of these this should be discussed.

The only problem I had replacing the switch was that the wires up thru the tube was barely long enough to work with. I lost one screw in the process.
I'm telling you these screws are tiny things.
Down at the end of the tube is a grommet that was aready loose, but still the wiring harness needed to be 1" longer.

 

[AU.CASE]

Just in case someone comes across this thread in the future...

Evening all,

Just suffering the intermittent clutch problem on my 580 and decided to haul out the switch from the gear lever again to see if I could encourage it to work reliably again, but alas no it is buggy and worn so it seems.

Searching from tips above I eventually used a series of matches and ended on ebay with no luck at all.

Then in industrial pushbutton switches is the original part (albeit in solder terminals) and plenty of stock so I am off International shopping for a couple of them to solve this annoying fault that is making gear changing harder on the move.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/P1-31122-Ot...131?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6cb21113

 

[bowen]

Then in industrial push button switches is the original part (albeit in solder terminals) and plenty of stock so I am off International shopping for a couple of them to solve this annoying fault that is making gear changing harder on the move.

The switch I ordered from Newark was a # 97F9019, but now they show no longer available. The description showed soldier style but when I got it, the screws were there. It had some tabs to use, if you wanted to soldier it, but I did not use them. (See photo above)
Good luck, these are not easy to find; at least cheap.
The Case # was D141486 in early 2012. (~$63.00)

 

[AU.CASE]

The switch I ordered from Newark was a # 97F9019, but now they show no longer available. The Case # was D141486 in early 2012. (~$63.00)

Hi bowen,

Yes I thought they would be difficult with a few matches from sources in the low current version at 2A which would be doomed to fail I suppose.

It is a really annoying fault that I didn't 'switch onto' for a while was making gear changes on the move very difficult; I had to 'time them' with the engine revs like a clutchless change.

How I figured the switch area was buggy was the reversing alarm wouldn't terminate when the button clicked closed and was supposed to open the clutch and allow me to change direction for example.

The switches are on their way from the U.S. which I guess is up on the North East side there and will take about ten days to reach me I'd reckon, will advise how the first one works out.

One thing I have found is with the red rubber boot over the switch in Winter it can be hard to depress, so I am hoping the new one has a smoother action with less wear perhaps.

Actually in the few minutes I did before putting the 580 away in its shed as a huge rain dump set in, the switch was working well, I hope the problem isn't the fasteners' coming loose as it is twisted into the gear handle, as they didn't have much tension on them when I removed it yesterday.

 

[bowen]

I thought they would be difficult with a few matches from sources in the low current version at 2A which would be doomed to fail I suppose.

You are correct; a 2A will NOT work. Even the correct switch may not last that long.
If yours does not have the foot switch you could install one. Like a microswitch in the floor panel.
On the 580SE it has one that is wired in parallel with the thumb button.
These are rated for higher current if you get the right one. (Must be HD DC rated)

And the boot cover may not come with the switch; mine did not.
Case sells these and they are fairly cheap. Maybe $3 (# D138252 I think)

 

[AU.CASE]

If yours does not have the foot switch you could install one. Like a microswitch in the floor panel. On the 580SE it has one that is wired in parallel with the thumb button.

Hi Bowen,

There are two clutch switches, one in the gear lever and the other in the front hoist lift lever.

Don't think I'd have a foot free for the floor addition.

And the boot cover may not come with the switch; mine did not.

I bought about four of these recently in a U.S. shipment from Finney Corp as you said not much cost.

Biggest problem was the old perished ones' were spreading all over the levers' and the mess really took cleaning away, think I used kerosene to mop up the residue before I fitted the new caps which made them a lot more positive to use.

 

[laycobeau]

Looks like an Otto P3- switch you can go to their web site to measure https://www.otto-controls.com/-/media/products/literature/P3-Product-Bulletin.ashx Good luck they are $12.00 to $36.00