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$454

mistabitzysdrury

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Mar 19, 2025
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1
Location
New Zealand
Both 66 and running still in the cars
440 produced from 66 to 79. Still it could even be a 400, which can be stroked to a 451 using
a 440 reworked crank for stroke. The 400 had the biggest bore of any production Chrysler
V8's at the time, same 3.375-3 3/8" stroke as a B but with a bore of 4.342. Huge bore short
stroke. But if it came out of a motor home it has two choices 413 or 440. Still worth keeping
because people are still looking for them. If was by chance a 66/67 the cylinder heads are
very sought after large port, in 68 those shrank.
Check out Mista Bitzys for top-quality parts and car removal in New Zealand. ♻️

The Chrysler 440 was produced from 1966 to 1979, but it could also be a 400, which can be stroked to a 451 using a reworked 440 crank. The 400 had the largest bore of any Chrysler V8 at the time—4.342 inches, with a short 3.375-inch stroke. If it came from a motorhome, it's likely a 413 or 440, both still in demand.

If it’s a 1966/67 model, the large-port cylinder heads are highly sought after, as they shrank in 1968. Definitely worth keeping!
 

Truck Shop

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My neighbor has some cars to remove he's a small time hoarder---how much to drive
a roll-deck from New Zealand and haul them off or back to New Zealand on your
return trip?
 

Truck Shop

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Any one old enough to remember Chryslers Lean Burn should be able to remember how
finicky it was to tune--mostly because there was little info made available to help ubderstand
how it worked--or in most cases didn't. Was found mostly on the B block 400 in the late 70's.
And the engine received a bad reputation as a dog--which it deserved. But emission standards
created it-sort of. Very detuned---extremely low compression rating of 8.2 and depending on
poor casting standards for cylinder heads with wide CC variations in combustion chambers,
some engines were in the neighborhood of 7.8 compression. Only produced 195 hp & 305 ft lbs
torque on a good day as a 2 barrel, the 4 barrel made 255 hp. But the four barrel wasn't much
help being the fact it was a plastic center body Thermo Quad which had a tendency for cracking,
warping. And on top of that it had the same issue the LA318 had at tdc, a piston with .130 still
below the deck at tdc. Which created a issue for building any compression with changing pistons,
{No body offered a replacement that had a higher compression height}.

So people were decking blocks and heads and intake manifolds to gain compression. The thing
is the 400 is the same B block as a 383 using the same stroke 3.380, only it has a very large
bore 4.342. So for many years no one bothered much with the 400, most were turned into
scrap. Then finally about 7/8 years ago Keith Black started producing a piston that is only .030
below deck at TDC, with a .039 gasket and 75cc chamber it's right at 10 on compression, 84cc
gets 9.3:1. And with a mild cam, intake 375 hp easy.
*
spark-control-computer-1977.jpg
 

colson04

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Apr 11, 2016
Messages
2,897
Location
Delton, Michigan
I know very little about Mopar history. My dad wasn't really a car guy, all my friends were into old Chevys and I only started learning about Ford muscle when I started dating my wife, 20 years ago from her dad. He grew up in a Ford dealership in the 60's and 70's that his dad owned. He still runs that business today, though they had to give up the franchise before her and I started dating. They were small potatoes and Ford wanted big, high tech dealerships.
 

MG84

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Jan 6, 2023
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Location
Virginia
I don't want to derail this thread too far, but this is the most relevant engine building/hot rodding thread I've seen on HEF, so maybe some of yall will find this interesting. Here's the 351w in my '79 F150 trail rig that I referenced in my previous post. These pics were around 2019-2020 after I pulled it to refresh it.

Fitting the crank:
IMG_0346sm.JPG

Deep sump Canton off-road oil pan (to fix the oil starvation problems that lead to its first demise):
IMG_0349sm.JPG

Ready to go in the truck:
IMG_0360sm.JPG
363" (.060 over)
9.75:1 CR
Hyperutectic pistons
Reconditioned stock rods magnafluxed, shot peened, ARP bolts
Edelbrock E-street heads, 170cc intake runners, 1.90/1.60 + about 8hrs with the die grinder 'fine tuning'
ARP main and head bolts
Canton deep sump 10qt off road oil pan
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Stock 5.0HO hydraulic roller cam 210/211 @ .050, .445/.445 lift, 115LSA (currently running a Comp 268H High Energy flat tappet 218/218 @ .050, .456/.456 lift, 110LSA, more on that later)
Howard link bar roller lifters
Comp chromoly push rods
Comp roller rockers

When I built this parts availability was poor so I had to work with what I had and/or what wasn't back ordered indefinitely. I wanted a hyd roller cam but the heads/valvetrain combo wasn't the best fit (not enough valve spring/heavy valvetrain) so I thought the stock 5.0 cam would be gentle enough to keep everything happy. It ran great, got excellent fuel economy and sounded great, but was a little lacking in mid-range power. It did pull good at real low RPM and like to rev pretty high however.

On one of the occasions where the connection between my right foot and my brain shorted out, a trip to 7200rpms led to ticking in the valvetrain. Nothing catastrophic, but it shot the circlip out that holds in the hyd lifter plunger so I had to pull the lifters and roller cam, swapped in the 268H flat tappet:
IMG_0361sm.JPG

I'll see if I can dig up some 'action pics' or videos of the truck and maybe some on the other hot rods, engines, etc I've been playing with lately.
 

Truck Shop

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Nice engine. Edelbrock heads---I built a 302 5L for a guy--mainly assembled for him,
he had already bought the parts almost six months before I put it together. But had
a issue with one head {not flat when I put my deck bar on it, because of time elapse
they wouldn't take it back, so both got surfaced .006. Which changed compression
by only a little more than a CC. Went in a 89 F150 SB 4x4.
It had a 212 @ .050 with .460 lift IIRC it ran well, had real good mid range.
 

MG84

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1,397
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Virginia
Nice engine. Edelbrock heads---I built a 302 5L for a guy--mainly assembled for him,
he had already bought the parts almost six months before I put it together. But had
a issue with one head {not flat when I put my deck bar on it, because of time elapse
they wouldn't take it back, so both got surfaced .006. Which changed compression
by only a little more than a CC. Went in a 89 F150 SB 4x4.
It had a 212 @ .050 with .460 lift IIRC it ran well, had real good mid range.
Thanks. Yeah I always disassemble, clean and check a new set of heads when I get them. Most of the time they are fine, but every once in a while something is off, like you found on those. Lots of people take them out of the box and just slap them on. Also on anything short of the new CNC ported stuff, most heads can usually benefit from a little port work. I didn't do anything major on that set of Edelbrocks, just a little work on the short side radius on the exhaust side, blend the valve guides, a little bowl blending and match the intake ports.

Here's a short vid of the truck on one of the local trails, doesn't look bad in the vid but it's steep and slick with sand on the rocks:

And here's one more on topic with this thread, doing some test and tune at the local 1/8mi drag strip:
Info in that description is incorrect, truck went 9.85@71mph, 2.10 60'. Running in 4wd, leaving in 1st at 4000rpm and shifting at about 5500 gave best results. Hard to get a clean pass in a 5000lb truck on big off road tires with an NP435, but fun anyways. Couldn't see well in that vid but it's spinning all 4 tires off the line and again on the 1-2 shift.
 

Truck Shop

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Checking a cam profile--Using a degree wheel attached to crank with a piece of wire for a pointer,
roll over to TDC #1 with a dial indicator set atop rocker at pushrod put a mark on degree wheel
when valve opens .050, turn over till dial reaches max lift note that, continue till valve is at .050
before closing mark degree wheel. that will give total duration and lift plus lobe seperation.
 

Truck Shop

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After these small blocks--I might start on a 400 Chrysler B series for a pickup most on here
hate, a nice early 80's 1/2 ton Prospector 2wd. I know where one is setting that's pretty
straight. My old 84 150 below.
*
1984 Dodge 002.JPGae0d07518cf91b399737102bcb2a2032.jpg
 

Bumpsteer

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Front seat on the Struggle Bus
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Mechanical designer
When I built my 78 D300 dualie dump, I found a 76 W250 that was trashed....50k miles of hauling firewood. Opened the hood to find a 400 bolted to the 4 speed.....sold.
Tore it apart enough to put new valve stem seals in (had the tool to do it without pulling heads), checked the bearings, perfect. Installed high volume oil pump, double roller timing chain and 30 years later still runs great.
The 400 never got any love until the 500" stroker kits came out....even stock they were a stump puller.

Ed
 

Truck Shop

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This one I posted a few back and said it was a first year 440---Bugged me. I went back
and took another gander at it, K2-4734S carb which caused me to clean the stamping
pad located on the right front of block in front of cylinder head. From 1960 to 64 the code
letters in front of cu.in. displacement {383} were P.R.S.T.U.. From 65 to 71 A.B.C.D.E.F.G..
I grinned to myself--K2-4734S carb was mainly tied to years 69 to 71, a 630 CFM Carter AVS.
But the letter in front of the {383} was {G}---last year 383, 1971.
*
See the thing is it's setting in a 1966 Chrysler New Yorker, what's that doing there?
*
100_2119.JPG
 

Old Doug

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Mo
I have a Dodge motor home that has a big block . There was someone that was going to take it for free for the engine and get rid of the body but It hasn't happened and I don't remember who it was. Its got a fiberglass body so its going to be a deal.
 
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