mrjoe72
Member
hello there ....i have a 320c with 3066 mitsu engine ..and starts to overheat but everythung seems work fine ..the coolant , the hoses , no debris in the radiator , cap good etc ....any clue ???
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320 c engine overheating
- Thread starter mrjoe72
- Start date
grandpa
Senior Member
wash the radiator..... might not seem dirty, but its a cheap fix. Hope thats it.
willie59
Administrator
First of all, you have to feel certain that the overheating isn't caused by something amiss in the hydraulic system operation that puts excessive load on engine. If you're confident that the hydro system is working proper, then you can assume it's an engine related problem. As gramps said, make sure the radiator is clean externally.
Once you've done that, the next thing would be to check thermostat operation. You can either remove the thermostat and heat it in a pot of water while checking temperature of the water to see if it operates proper, or you can remove the radiator cap, block the radiator with some cardboard or similar material to restrict cooling air, then start/run engine. As the temperature of the engine coolant rises, you should see coolant start to flow through the radiator when temp gauge is at proper operating temperature.
If you notice proper coolant flow at operating temperature, then it's possible the radiator is clogged internally and would require taking to a radiator shop to be disassembled and cleaned or re-cored. I hope this helps.
Once you've done that, the next thing would be to check thermostat operation. You can either remove the thermostat and heat it in a pot of water while checking temperature of the water to see if it operates proper, or you can remove the radiator cap, block the radiator with some cardboard or similar material to restrict cooling air, then start/run engine. As the temperature of the engine coolant rises, you should see coolant start to flow through the radiator when temp gauge is at proper operating temperature.
If you notice proper coolant flow at operating temperature, then it's possible the radiator is clogged internally and would require taking to a radiator shop to be disassembled and cleaned or re-cored. I hope this helps.
My 315cl started to overheat recently. It just started out of the blue. I replaced the thermostat (very easy to do) and I have no more trouble. BTW I assume you know that there are several coolers stacked together and that they must be seperated to effectively clean them out.
abdul k
Active Member
Yes I agree, very important to check in between the stacked coolers/radiator. The other note, low coolant flow will not only indicate partially blocked radiator but could also indicate the impeller on the water pump corroded to half its size, checking the pressure drop across the water pump will tell you the problem, same as temperature drop (difference) across the radiator (top tank bottom tank) will tell you whether the radiator is blocked or not, 7°C to 11°C is what it is normally if memory serves me correct .
.grandkobelco
Well-Known Member
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A way to test the internal condition of your radiator is to completly drain it. remove the lower and upper hoses, block off the lower port with a plug or your hand. Fill the rad with water. Remove the plug or your hand. The rad should emty in seconds, with a stream of water the same diamiter as the lower port. If you hear a lot of gurgeling and air bubbles like a full jug tipped upside down your rad is plugged inside. Don't get wet!
I have a KOM 200 that ran hot on the warmer days, turned out the radiator was clogged because it wasn't grounded; grounding prevents electrolysis of the the metal in the water jacket being deposited in the radiator. The value of my radiator shop tech's knowledge was worth more than what I paid for the boil and flush!
John C.
Senior Member
If you run the correct percentage of antifreeze and change it at the factory recommended intervals, then electrolytic corrosion can't happen.
Get some test strips from any Napa parts dealer and use them all the time and you will never have internal radiator problems or electrolysis on the cylinder liners.
As far as overheating goes, the use of an infrared thermometer, as has been previously stated, will tell where overheating problems are coming from. There should be between 15 and 30 degree F. difference between what comes out of the thermostat housing and what goes into the water pump inlet. I've seen even that differential get as low a 7 degrees and still keep things cool enough to run.
Good Luck!
Get some test strips from any Napa parts dealer and use them all the time and you will never have internal radiator problems or electrolysis on the cylinder liners.
As far as overheating goes, the use of an infrared thermometer, as has been previously stated, will tell where overheating problems are coming from. There should be between 15 and 30 degree F. difference between what comes out of the thermostat housing and what goes into the water pump inlet. I've seen even that differential get as low a 7 degrees and still keep things cool enough to run.
Good Luck!
Also check out this thread............
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?19632-Komatsu-pc200lc-3-engine-over-heating
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?19632-Komatsu-pc200lc-3-engine-over-heating
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