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249D Cat SkidSteer No Crank/No Start
- Thread starter JP913
- Start date
Nige
Senior Member
That was going to be the next step. CONN 12 on your machine should have nothing connected to it but it’s worth inspecting the condition of it to make sure it’s not somehow providing a path for current to ground.
Nige
Senior Member
That's what would be expected. Wire H807 to CONN 12 connects to the same Pin 33 in CONN 2 as H807 at the Implement Shutoff solenoid. There is a splice shown in the harness.
With connector J2 disconnected and both CONN 1 & CONN 2 connected you should have continuity in Wire H807 between CONN 12 Pin 3 and the same wire H807 in the 2-pin connectors for both the 2-Speed and Park brake solenoids. See Chrisso's abbreviated diagram in Post #12.
Nige
Senior Member
That's everything I can think of to check.
I'd welcome Chrisso's opinion but I think your ECM has gone AWOL. I can't think of anything else it can be.
I'd welcome Chrisso's opinion but I think your ECM has gone AWOL. I can't think of anything else it can be.
Nige
Senior Member
Because they should each be de-energized until the engine is running and the switch for the park brake, implement lockout, or 2-speed is activated.
Are you measuring that voltage between the power wire and frame ground or to H807 back to the ECM.?
Chrisso
Senior Member
I'd like to rule out that .9 volts at your solenoid isn't a short to power. I know you've checked continuity but we heading down an ECM replacement path, so the checks are worth it. We also need to rule out the newly installed solenoids haven't been fried.
Pick the easiest solenoid to access, just worry about that one from now on. Remove solenoid, check resistance again, make sure it's close to spec as mentioned on the previous page (post #7 I think). If it is, continue on...
Use a pin-out tool and remove that H807 wire at #4 of the J2 ECM plug completely, let it dangle. Use a new wire and run it directly to #2 of the solenoid we're concentrating on. The wire in position #1 on that solenoid is verified as working correctly, so leave that exactly where it is.
Cycle isolator, key on, don't do anything else. The two other solenoids will go -5 current below normal since they're open circuit now. The solenoid you chose to concentrate on should have zero codes active. If it still has a -6 current above normal you have an ECM failure.
Let us know what you find.
Pick the easiest solenoid to access, just worry about that one from now on. Remove solenoid, check resistance again, make sure it's close to spec as mentioned on the previous page (post #7 I think). If it is, continue on...
Use a pin-out tool and remove that H807 wire at #4 of the J2 ECM plug completely, let it dangle. Use a new wire and run it directly to #2 of the solenoid we're concentrating on. The wire in position #1 on that solenoid is verified as working correctly, so leave that exactly where it is.
Cycle isolator, key on, don't do anything else. The two other solenoids will go -5 current below normal since they're open circuit now. The solenoid you chose to concentrate on should have zero codes active. If it still has a -6 current above normal you have an ECM failure.
Let us know what you find.
Last edited:
Nige
Senior Member
In case you are wondering what a pin-out tool is - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132394225527
They are on sale in all the popular online marketplaces. Using the tool means that wires don’t have to be cut.
They are on sale in all the popular online marketplaces. Using the tool means that wires don’t have to be cut.