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2007 International 4300 Durastar no power on freeway

TorchHypnosis

Active Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2024
Messages
25
Location
Tumwater WA
I have a 2007 International 4300 Durastar with a DT466 engine. Recently I can't go any faster than 35-40 MPH on the highway unless I'm going downhill. It feels fine just driving around town. I changed the fuel filter cartridge and put new batteries in which cleared all of these codes:

SID1,2,3,4,and 6, FMI5, Injector cyl (X) current below normal or open circuit

SID254 FMI8 Abnormal frequency pulse width or period

PID168 FMI4 Battery low voltage or short to lower voltage

(note - when I unscrewed the fuel pressure regulator 3-5 Tbsp of what looked like black motor oil trickled out, thought that was odd)

Then I took it out on a test drive for 15 miles on the highway or so and it still would not go faster than 40 on the highway. When I returned there was only one code:

SID27 FMI6 Variable Geometry Turbocharger Actuator #1 Current above normal or grounded circuit.


Felt like a fuel delivery issue to me, so I checked the fuel pressure at the rail. It was staying right at 58 PSI idling and at 2500 RPMs. I know it's supposed to be between 60-70 PSI, but I feel like it should still be able to go freeway speeds with that fuel pressure, but I don't know.

Anyone have any suggestions on what I should try next? I would think if it was a failing sensor it would trip an error code. Does the Turbocharger Actuator #1 need to be functioning for the vehicle to have power going up hill on the highway? I'm trying to figure out what to try next.


Thanks for reading!
 
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TorchHypnosis

Active Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2024
Messages
25
Location
Tumwater WA
Yea...the actuator arm moves like it should(out then in then back to center) upon ignition on, which tells me the ECM is communicating with it which leads me to believe (since there are no DTCs saying a sensor is out of range) that the feedback from the VGT actuator is not providing feedback to the ECM. But I'm not sure how to test that. I primarily work on gas vehicles, diesel vehicles are a completely different beast. Do you think the turbine could be encountering resistance resulting in the actuator DTC? We are dropping the truck off at a shop on Tuesday if I can't figure it out by then. I'm a little confused...most of the probable causes that have not been checked off the list are failed sensors...like EBP sensor, etc...but if there was a sensor reading out of range wouldn't that trigger a DTC? I would just change the actuator if I knew for sure that was the issue, but I dont want to throw $400 at it unless I know for sure.

Thanks for the reply!
 

mekanik

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
960
Location
Canada's Northwest
Can you post the last eight of the VIN. It does sound like a fuel issue, 58 psi is on the low side but going down the road it may be lower under load.

(note - when I unscrewed the fuel pressure regulator 3-5 Tbsp of what looked like black motor oil trickled out, thought that was odd)??
What is the fuel pressure regulator you are referring to here?

When you changed the filter was there a buildup of dirt and debris in the bottom of the housing?
The fuel pressure regulator is located in the bottom of the filter housing. Its a stainless orifice with a small spring loaded plunger in it. Take it out and blow it out with compressed air. You will need a 7mm allen socket to remove it.
The 07 DT466 does not have a fuel return line. The fuel from the regulator returns back to the fuel inlet on the filter housing. If there is crud in the filter housing it goes through the regulator in the bottom of the housing back into the inlet through the transfer pump and back into the filter housing. It keeps going around and around until it builds up on the seat of the regulator dropping the fuel pressure.

The tube in the middle of the fuel filter housing has holes in it where the filtered fuel goes into the engine. Don't let anything get in there when cleaning the housing.

If there is a lot of crud built up in the bottom of the filter housing with the fuel pressure regulator removed take the fuel supply line off the filter housing and clean and flush the housing, the debris will drain out of the filter inlet. You can remove the housing to clean it you will need the oval O-ring that seals the housing to the intake manifold.

There is a strainer on the bottom of the housing that can get plugged over time. Its probably never been cleaned.
An 07 should have a quick coupler on the plastic filter cap. Plumb a gauge in there and see what the pressure is under load.

The faults with the turbo actuator should not cause the power loss you have but a boost leak would.
 
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TorchHypnosis

Active Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2024
Messages
25
Location
Tumwater WA
The fuel filter housing was clean. I did not see a regulator inside the fuel filter canister, I did clean the strainer and clean it. The truck is at the shop now so I dont have access to the VIN. It was the IPR valve that I unscrewed and cleaned. Looks like this:


The shop changed the barrel sensor and MAP sensor and it was able to reach full speed on the freeway!!!...for 20 minutes now it's acting up again. I'm wondering if oil or soot is getting in the intake and causing the MAP sensor to send bad data to the ECM, causing the VGT to overboost.

That's what the mechanic said their computer said. Turbocharger was overboosting.

He is going to clean the MAP sensor and see if he is able to reach freeway speed and check for debris in the intake.

Hey, thanks for giving me your feedback, I sure do appreciate it!
 

TorchHypnosis

Active Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2024
Messages
25
Location
Tumwater WA
I might have to figure out how to plumb a gauge into the test port and run it to the cab while I'm driving. We are going to get the truck back today or tomorrow so I can play with cleaning the MAP sensor and see if I can reproduce how the shop we took it to was able to replace the MAP sensor and have it run normally for 20 minutes before it started exhibiting symptoms again. We tried a bunch of things and we were never able to do that, I think they may have been onto something with the MAP sensor. Might be something as simple as a loose connection. Will update in the hopes that this experience helps someone else. Thanks again!
 

cfherrman

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Jun 3, 2022
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1,812
Location
Hays, Kansas
I might have to figure out how to plumb a gauge into the test port and run it to the cab while I'm driving. We are going to get the truck back today or tomorrow so I can play with cleaning the MAP sensor and see if I can reproduce how the shop we took it to was able to replace the MAP sensor and have it run normally for 20 minutes before it started exhibiting symptoms again. We tried a bunch of things and we were never able to do that, I think they may have been onto something with the MAP sensor. Might be something as simple as a loose connection. Will update in the hopes that this experience helps someone else. Thanks again!

If it's short enough a Grease gun hose works great and cheap. Just tape it to the outside of the windshield gauge facing in
 

TorchHypnosis

Active Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2024
Messages
25
Location
Tumwater WA
I'm thinking the turbo needs to be replaced, but I want to check throttle linkage try cleaning the MAF sensor. Any Idea where that MAF sensor is on an 07 4300 series DT466? I don't see anything between the air cleaner and the turbo inlet.
 

TorchHypnosis

Active Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2024
Messages
25
Location
Tumwater WA
Thank you all for your replies, I very much appreciate it. Last 8 of the VIN is:

7H387378.

So now I cant remember if the shop replaced the MAP or the MAF before it started running fine for 20 min on an incline on the highway before acting up again. Let me double check that on the receipt when our accountant comes in. They also replaced something called the barrel sensor...not sure what that is, I did not see it on the list of culprits to check for this error code:

SID27 FMI6 Variable Geometry Turbocharger Actuator #1 Current above normal or grounded circuit.

I can see only one EGR valve, it's a rectangular thing that bolts to the intake by 4 bolts, and then secured in place with a clamp. It has ports that connect it to the intake, not pipes(whew, I hate removing exhaust pipes from EGR valve. It doesn't look too hard to remove, I just have not done it yet. Hoping I can find a way to clean it but the valve might be buried internally and inaccessible.

Engine derating...that's when the ECM can tell something is wrong so it places limitations(AKA limp home mode) on the vehicle to avoid any further damage, yes?

I can probably get a hose extension for the fuel pressure testing gauge so I can run it where I can see it from the cab while driving. Does anyone know if there is a possibility that this truck does not have a MAF sensor and relies on Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor instead? I really want to find that MAF if it's in there.

Thanks again everyone, and sorry for the lengthy reply!
 

TorchHypnosis

Active Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2024
Messages
25
Location
Tumwater WA
So it was the MAP sensor that got replaced which resulted in the truck running normally for 20 minutes before failing again, which is an occurrence that I have yet to be able to reproduce. I am still curious to know if there is a MAF sensor in this truck and where it is. I am about to replace both the turbo and the actuator. Seems silly to just replace the actuator when the whole assembly is only $1500. I am off in two hours so I doubt I will have the old turbo removed by then as I dont have a boom, but I should be able to at least see inside by the time I leave. Will post in a couple hours and let you know what I find. I really hope this thread helps someone else in the future.
 

mekanik

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
960
Location
Canada's Northwest
If you PM me an email address I can send you the diagnostic manuals.
Its not uncommon for wires in the harness to break from vibration at the sensor connector.
It would not hurt to do some testing before replacing the turbo.
Using an O-ring pick give the individual wires at the MAP sensor the 10 LB pull test.
 
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TorchHypnosis

Active Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2024
Messages
25
Location
Tumwater WA
Thank you for sharing that document with me Mekanik. We actually just replaced the oil cooler, so I'm sure they cleaned the screen when they installed the new one. I didn't see a line going from the oil cooler to the turbo though, there was just a line going from the oil filter housing to the top of the turbo, then a pipe sealed with O-rings going from the side of the turbo to the engine.

I replaced the turbo yesterday and still getting the SID27/FMI6 error code. VGT actuator current above normal or grounded circuit. When I turn the key on I can see the actuator arm move all the way out, then all the way in, then back to center so I know the ECM is communicating with it. I do not drive the truck so I don't know how it's supposed to "feel", but after I installed the new turbo my driver went with my for a test drive and said that he should feel a "boost" when he puts the gas pedal to the floor, and was not feeling a boost. So we did not bother going on the highway since he assured me the turbo was still not working. I cleared the code just now, I may take the truck out again on the highway with our other driver just to confirm what the first driver said.

I will probably take the truck to a diesel shop that I just found out about less than a mile from where the truck is. 31 out of 32 google reviews were five star, and they work with AAA, so I feel like they will take care of us. I was going to run a fuel tester gauge extension into the cab so I could meter fuel pressure in the cab under load, but I feel like if there was a loss of fuel pressure there would be other issues besides the turbo not working.

Thanks again for your help Mekanic and everyone else. When I find out what the issue is I will post it here in the hopes that it may help someone else in the future. At this point it can't be anything major, I have a feeling it's going to be a palm face moment.
 
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