2006 John Deere 160 CLC Puzzler

[alaskaforby4]

Well, The problem continues, we replaced all the injectors. Had a tech come out, said it wasnt throwing any codes. continued to cycle on and off untill it would run normally and finished the season. We now have it in the shop and ran the diagnostic test manually without laptop and came up with a Code 71 - Pump Control Valve Closure to Long. After wiggling wires and checking connections I guess the inevitable has happened. We will be replacing the injection Pump. I was able to obtain the Flywheel pin, Pump pin and gear puller. I did have a couple questions I was hoping to gain some knowledge on.
1. Finding TDC #1 - I was planning on taking valve cover off, following injection line #1 to cylinder and cranking slowly till the rocker is tight, indicating compression stroke and I can insert dowel pin into flywheel. Is this how everyone does it or is there a better way?
2. After the pump is installed and bled to pump, what is the best way to get it from pump to injectors. I would like to crank it with ignition off but am unsure how to do this besides the ol screw driver in starter trick. Was looking for a better way.

Thanks for the insight!

 

[Shimmy1]

If you've just replaced the injectors, I'd pull #1 and verify TDC that way.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The "easiest way" is to remove the timing plug on the injection pump & turn the engine "by hand" till the pin drops in.. & THEN SEE if the pin goes into the flywheel..
The reason behind doing THAT is.. the flywheel hole will come up TWICE while the pin will go in the pump ONCE.. SO if u drop the pin in the pump.. U KNOW its on #1 compression.. THEN fine tune w/ the flywheel pin..
All u have to do is get fuel TO the pump & the pump will self bleed after starting..
Just let it idle for a few minutes before reving the engine..

 

[alaskaforby4]

The "easiest way" is to remove the timing plug on the injection pump & turn the engine "by hand" till the pin drops in.. & THEN SEE if the pin goes into the flywheel..
The reason behind doing THAT is.. the flywheel hole will come up TWICE while the pin will go in the pump ONCE.. SO if u drop the pin in the pump.. U KNOW its on #1 compression.. THEN fine tune w/ the flywheel pin..
All u have to do is get fuel TO the pump & the pump will self bleed after starting..
Just let it idle for a few minutes before reving the engine..

Awesome! I knew there would be knowledgeable answer! We plan on doing the swap on Monday, hopefully it will make this ol girl reliable again. Thanks a ton!

 

[thepumpguysc]

BE SURE & de-grease the drive shaft & drive gear w/ something..{on the new pump} I use brakekleen..
Put "Blue" Loctite on the threads of the drive gear & TORQUE IT...I think its 125 FTlbs..
IF you don't follow those steps, you'll be doing it again.. the dr.shaft is NOT keyed..
Good luck..
Where did u get the pump?? reman?? cost?? If u went to JD.. did u bring any lube?? Lol
A buddy of mine is up there working as a heavy equip. mechanic.. been there about a month..
He's "trying" to get me up there.. He said they are DESPERATE for experienced inj. pump guys up there..
& I could write my own ticket..
He said its ALL fly-in or snow machine work & you get "stuck" at an outpost for weeks at a time.. waiting on parts & O/Hing gen-set engines on site..
THAT doesn't sound like my cup of tea..

 

[Vetech63]

Where did u get the pump?? reman?? cost?? If u went to JD.. did u bring any lube?? Lol

LMAO!

 

[alaskaforby4]

BE SURE & de-grease the drive shaft & drive gear w/ something..{on the new pump} I use brakekleen..
Put "Blue" Loctite on the threads of the drive gear & TORQUE IT...I think its 125 FTlbs..
IF you don't follow those steps, you'll be doing it again.. the dr.shaft is NOT keyed..
Good luck..
Where did u get the pump?? reman?? cost?? If u went to JD.. did u bring any lube?? Lol
A buddy of mine is up there working as a heavy equip. mechanic.. been there about a month..
He's "trying" to get me up there.. He said they are DESPERATE for experienced inj. pump guys up there..
& I could write my own ticket..
He said its ALL fly-in or snow machine work & you get "stuck" at an outpost for weeks at a time.. waiting on parts & O/Hing gen-set engines on site..
THAT doesn't sound like my cup of tea..

Excellent, One thing I had a question on is it says "hold the gear while applying torque." How is this achieved? Does it just go against timing pin in the pump? Or against the timing gears of engine... with the flywheel pin installed I would suppose this would be the correct way.

I got a Reman pump from JD it was $1,822 which was better than I was expecting.

Yes, there is a company, "Anywhere Alaska" who I had come look at this machine and they are always getting stuck out somewhere, need bush planes to hop to different areas to get to a bigger planes to get home. Some guys love the adventure and I am happy they are out there! Definitely not for everyone but the experience will last a lifetime, come on up!

 

[alaskaforby4]

Successfully installed new pump!!
We started it a dozen times or so in the shop and she ran clean and smooth every start up.
Will be nice to have a reliable machine again.
Thanks everyone for the input and advice.

 

[thepumpguysc]

They sell an "Artic" inj. pump.. I wonder if u got that one.?? IF not, expect more trouble..
Happy its running tho..
Did u do the work or "help"?? Its just alittle intimidating if ya don't have instructions..
Was it REAL HARD to get the pump separated from the gear?? I've seen guys strip out the holes.!!
& I had 1 that I had a 5ft "knocker rod" & had to beat the bajesus out of the puller before it would pop off..
I even had the screws holding the pump to the block out & had 2 "wedges" on THAT side.. Lol
Did u post your pump #?? I can look it up real quick & tella if its an Artic pump..

 

[Howey75]

Just outa curiosity what is the difference between artic and standard pumps?i hadn’t realized one was available

 

[thepumpguysc]

The pump manuf. realized that their equip could be/would be used in Artic climates.. & the fuel wouldnt be up to "standards"..so they built these "certain" units w/ exceptionally hard materials & diff. fuel setting..
They are usually identified by a stamping on the name plate.. "mm3/st" or by the part # itself..
Like I said, if u can get me the # off the np..
I don't think the DE pump has the markings on the np.??
IT SHOULD have an "older brother" that was made for those conditions..

 

[alaskaforby4]

They sell an "Artic" inj. pump.. I wonder if u got that one.?? IF not, expect more trouble..
Happy its running tho..
Did u do the work or "help"?? Its just alittle intimidating if ya don't have instructions..
Was it REAL HARD to get the pump separated from the gear?? I've seen guys strip out the holes.!!
& I had 1 that I had a 5ft "knocker rod" & had to beat the bajesus out of the puller before it would pop off..
I even had the screws holding the pump to the block out & had 2 "wedges" on THAT side.. Lol
Did u post your pump #?? I can look it up real quick & tella if its an Artic pump..

The one we pulled off was a Stanadyne pump, the one we put on is a JD reman. I did find a 2010 date stamped on old one, which is interesting because the machine is a 06.
So apparently the dealer had a issue with it before I bought it.
Yes we did the work, the puller did flex a little and I was nervous, but then it popped right off.
We installed the new pump and torqued it, but it didnt sit quite flush, we pulled it all back off and found that the old gasket/seal was still in there.
Took that out, loc tighted nut, torqued it again and it fired up nice and smooth!

I don't now about a arctic pump, we dont run in the winter so its not a big deal.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Same diff.. I don't know if Stanadyne builds JD reman pumps for JD?? BUT the pump IS A Stanadyne DE2-6323 made for JD.
& its not an "artic" pump..