1994 case 1845 skid steer tilt bleeds over and trans spool leak

[dragracer5256]

Im sure this has been covered but I couldn't find a thread that pointed me in the right direction. This will be simple for many. Alrman?

#1 tilt bleeds over - I have rebuilt cylinder's and caped off to verify cylinder's not leaking, so im looking at control valve. I assume, from what ive read, pull check valve for that side first?? If no dirt replace? If so where to buy? Or im all wrong?

#2 trans spool leak - Correct way to remove spool and best place to buy seal kit ? I cant find it on Coleman`s site.
And one more question, my aux valve near feet is leaking where spool goes in. Is this simple fix?

Thanks in advance for the help. Im just trying to get all these little aggravation issue fixed while this tractor is in my shop. Fixing things on these tractors is so much easier with expert directions.

 

[alrman]

#1 There a a number of different loader control valves in the 1845C - some have a secondary reliefs on the tilt circuit.
Can you confirm your serial number?
Also, while holding a bucket full of dirt off the ground, when you move the controls to roll back, does it roll forward sightly before it begins to roll back?

#2 These "seal kits" do not exist you simply order the individual items required -

• S99877 backup [spool]
• 86629543 oring (012") [spool]
• DONNH947A backup [sleeve]
• 128359 oring (016") [sleeve]

There is an inner spool & the outer sleeve which both need to be resealed.
When you remove the sleeve - take note of the notch position in the bottom for re installation.
The sleeve can sometimes be very stubborn to remove - leave the inner spool in it & grab the outer sleeve with vise grips. Use a wriggle motion while attempting to extract it.
Don't be shy, these sleeves are made out something very hard & you wont score them.
If you don't leave the inner spool fitted while trying to remove the sleeve, it's possible to crack the sleeve as they wear thin around the neutralising spring work area.

**TIP - Thoroughly clean the servo area before any dismantling & get a few different clean plastic plugs at hand to place in the hole when you pull the sleeve, to stop oil loss.

When you start the machine on completion, it's safest to do so with the wheels off the ground - in case you have upset the neutral position - & save running yourself over......

 

[dragracer5256]

#1 I do not have serial # due to tag missing at left knee panel, fell off years ago. If there is another way to detect which machine let me know. I can take picture of valve if that works.
As far as bucket roll back, absolutely not.
I did pull checks last night , all looked fine other than little piece of seal in little hole in valve, so I removed. Retested with no improvement.
This valve does have a T fitting in the (tilt back) line coming out the top of the valve. That line goes down to block below control valve on the inside of the hyd tank. Two other lines go into that block. Not sure what that does but I thought about capping that T-ed off line and seeing if leakage stops.

#2 Thanks for the tips, those are invaluable.
What about that aux. valve spool leak at my feet? Is that just a seal that can be replaced ?


o I pulled b

 

[alrman]

There is usually a serial number stamped on the chassis near one of the chain case covers. They are always covered in dirt & are not easily seen.
A picture of the loader control valve may indeed help.

The valve block you describe could be location for the secondary reliefs on an earlier model machine. These could well be the problem if an oring has blown or a valve is stuck open.


The Aux valve for the 4in1 will need to be removed from the machine so the spool can be withdrawn from the bottom of the valve for seal replacements. Again there are a couple of different valve types - mainly external & internal neutralising springs.

 

[dragracer5256]

So if I cap off that line to that block, that should tell me if that’s leakage? Block looks like a pain to get to.
Thx again for help.

 

[dragracer5256]

Just wanted to follow up. Alrman thanks so much, I would pay you if I could. Your knowledge is ridiculous. I replaced those o rings in the secondary relief block. They were defiantly torn. Wasn't bad to get to with bucket up and blocked. That fixed bucket bleed over. and the other spool seal change went exactly as you said. Thanks again and I hope this helps someone else.

 

[dragracer5256]

Anyone know a good alternate resource for the hyd temp switch that fits into the R/S wheel motor line or the hyd pressure switch that goes into the top of the transmission R/S. Both of these activate the dash display, one for hyd overtemp and the other hyd low pressure. Or know the approximate overtemp degree and under pressure # so I could get correct replacements. Dealer wants over $100 for each switch. Thanks

 

[sims]

Airman, dragracer5256;
Are the parts listed for the rebuild the same for the boom side of the control valve? With a load in the bucket my boom will drop slightly before raising. I don't see any creep on the roll back. Thanks
SimS

 

[alrman]

Airman, dragracer5256;
Are the parts listed for the rebuild the same for the boom side of the control valve? With a load in the bucket my boom will drop slightly before raising. I don't see any creep on the roll back. Thanks
SimS

Serial number required @sims - too many configurations to give specific help.

 

[sims]

Airman;

• Thanks. I have an early 1845C. Serial # JAF0040156

 

[alrman]

@sims You need to take a look at the load check valves fitted to the loader control valve.
This is the only valve in the lift circuit on your machine.
Your particular style valve didn't give too much trouble in this area, as they were a better design than the later ones.
But it's possible you have a broken spring (#26) or something maybe caught up in there...

 

[sims]

Airman;
Thanks. I looked at the load check for the boom circuit. The spring was in good shape. The "face" of the plunger (part #27) is worn and/or slightly grooved. Should it be perfectly flat and smooth?
SimS

 

[alrman]

Yes, when they are new they are perfectly flat.
If you replace the 'plunger' or poppet, there is the possibility that the sealing surface (seat) inside the valve body is worn also, preventing a perfect seal.
But, that is definitely the problem - replace the poppet & see if that improves the issue.

 

[sims]

@airman;
I have one on order. The poppet I have ordered; and mine also; have a central "bump" away from the edge's sealing surface. My sealing surface is eroded/grooved. Hopefully the seat is still good. I'm thinking that the seat is probably a harder material than the poppet. I will update. Thanks

SimS