Shimmy1
Senior Member
Are there indexing marks like a B-pump?
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1989 RD686 with EC-6 350 Fuel issues?
- Thread starter Shimmy1
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thepumpguysc
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No.. the timing degree should be on the valve cover..
It looks like the tappet is on its way up, so just find the correct degree and your all set..
Looks like someone already marked it in WHITE.??
It looks like the tappet is on its way up, so just find the correct degree and your all set..
Looks like someone already marked it in WHITE.??
Shimmy1
Senior Member
Just to get it out there, does anyone have the proper installation procedure for this pump/engine?
Truck Shop
Senior Member
I have a complete PDF I bought from Barrington that covers that engine. But because I have
been branded a sour old individual-I won't change that idea.
been branded a sour old individual-I won't change that idea.
Shimmy1
Senior Member
Truck Shop
Senior Member
I expect that--looking free info.
Shimmy1
Senior Member
thepumpguysc
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Can u take a pic of the gov. that’s behind the oil fill spout..
Is there a cap or 8mm Allan hex.??
Is there a cap or 8mm Allan hex.??
Shimmy1
Senior Member
I dropped it off at Lake Region Diesel today. That plug is a 8mm cap. The guy told me that is where you lock the pump for install?
thepumpguysc
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Yes, that’s correct..
Shimmy1
Senior Member
I ordered this today, since I seem to be freeloading asking for service info. I maybe should have asked, but I assume this is a 4 valve head?
Pumpguy, I'm hoping it'll say in the book, but is this pump supposed to be spill timed? Never did that in school. My pump guy wasn't sure if the drive hub can be installed with the pump on the engine (he's not a Mack guy) and you have to rotate it off of TDC #1 for it to clear the gear train to remove or install.
Pumpguy, I'm hoping it'll say in the book, but is this pump supposed to be spill timed? Never did that in school. My pump guy wasn't sure if the drive hub can be installed with the pump on the engine (he's not a Mack guy) and you have to rotate it off of TDC #1 for it to clear the gear train to remove or install.
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
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- Sunny South Carolina
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- Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
No spill timing..
the plug in the gov is hiding a pointer.. it’s spill timed on the test stand and the pointer is locked onto the cam shaft..
In other words, the pointer is your spill timing..
U better find someone else to do that pump.. u need a special jig to set that drive hub..
Is this the same people that told u how to diagnose the problem in the first place.??
Oh, u have to degrease the cam shaft and drive hub and torque it to 200 ftlbs.. otherwise it’ll spin on u..
the plug in the gov is hiding a pointer.. it’s spill timed on the test stand and the pointer is locked onto the cam shaft..
In other words, the pointer is your spill timing..
U better find someone else to do that pump.. u need a special jig to set that drive hub..
Is this the same people that told u how to diagnose the problem in the first place.??
Oh, u have to degrease the cam shaft and drive hub and torque it to 200 ftlbs.. otherwise it’ll spin on u..
Shimmy1
Senior Member
PMed you.
Shimmy1
Senior Member
Update on the old Mack.
Turned out the first guy doesn't do enough of these pumps on Mack engines, so he didn't have the tooling to hold the cam and torque the nut for the drive hub. Under his suggestion, called Midland Diesel in Fargo and they were more than happy to help. They got it apart, and found sticky plungers and wornout governor. After an ultrasonic cleaning of the plungers, and a light lapping, they were ready to go. Rebuilt the governor, $1900 and done. Got it back, we had marked the drive gear and cam gear before removal, so getting it back on went pretty well. Since that stupid oil filler tube is directly in front of the timing plug, we used a phone with the camera to see in it to line up the pointer, and the bolts that hold the drive gear to the drive hub ended up virtually exact to where they were.
Primed it, cranked it over with the fuel shutoff pulled until it made oil pressure, again until had fuel at injector lines, and after tightening those, when I hit the key I think it started on the first piston up. Everyone in the shop, myself included, can't believe how good it starts. This engine must either be in remarkable shape, or we got lucky and hit the timing on the button. Pretty good considering you're supposed to have this fancy-ass sensor and light box to do it according to the book haha.
Turned out the first guy doesn't do enough of these pumps on Mack engines, so he didn't have the tooling to hold the cam and torque the nut for the drive hub. Under his suggestion, called Midland Diesel in Fargo and they were more than happy to help. They got it apart, and found sticky plungers and wornout governor. After an ultrasonic cleaning of the plungers, and a light lapping, they were ready to go. Rebuilt the governor, $1900 and done. Got it back, we had marked the drive gear and cam gear before removal, so getting it back on went pretty well. Since that stupid oil filler tube is directly in front of the timing plug, we used a phone with the camera to see in it to line up the pointer, and the bolts that hold the drive gear to the drive hub ended up virtually exact to where they were.
Primed it, cranked it over with the fuel shutoff pulled until it made oil pressure, again until had fuel at injector lines, and after tightening those, when I hit the key I think it started on the first piston up. Everyone in the shop, myself included, can't believe how good it starts. This engine must either be in remarkable shape, or we got lucky and hit the timing on the button. Pretty good considering you're supposed to have this fancy-ass sensor and light box to do it according to the book haha.