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Tinkerer
Senior Member
Start post is wrong.
That way there is power to the solenoid only when the switch is turning the starter.
When the starter isn't turning you have no power to the injection pump solenoid.
You need to have it connected to the ignition switch (IGN) post.
That way there is power to the solenoid only when the switch is turning the starter.
When the starter isn't turning you have no power to the injection pump solenoid.
You need to have it connected to the ignition switch (IGN) post.
Just to be clear Tinkerer . the wire I ran from the S terminal of the key switch was directly to the starter solenoid not the fuel injection solenoid. So indeed there is a problem between the ING post on the key switch to the injection solenoid where i'm only getting .14 v . I suspect it is in the wiring and not the switch itself . I'll follow the 2 lines and will most likely find one or more splices. In fact the connector itself could be wrong as the John Deere site shows a flat dual connector with two separate lines plugging into the injector solenoid . The set up now is the two wires spliced together before the round connector then one wire leading to the round connector and on to the solenoid.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Ok, I thought you had the pump solenoid connected to the "S" post.
You definitely have a problem with that splice or somewhere else in the power supply ti the IP.
Separate that splice and check for voltage in one of the wires that turns on and off with the ignition switch.
My guess is that there is a hot wire and a ground tied together.
You definitely have a problem with that splice or somewhere else in the power supply ti the IP.
Separate that splice and check for voltage in one of the wires that turns on and off with the ignition switch.
My guess is that there is a hot wire and a ground tied together.
Absolutely right Tinkerer. I connected the fuel shut off solenoid to the battery with just alligator clips and heard the click so I knew it was working. Fixed the connection between the key and solenoid and it fired up. Ran it for 3hrs with no issue. I need now to go through each of the wires as I believe there are other problems with wiring and with missing switches. Thank you.
well I have been slowly fixing a number of electrical issues and have had it running and working great for days. But , the cold weather has started and i had hooked up the wiring to the start aid button (it had been disconnected) and now it won't start. I want to fix this as we get some pretty cold temps. Do i have to put fluid in the start aid container ? i'll check electrical lines too. How does the start aid work?
the start aid is an ether container that looks like a small propane cylinder, right? Yours is probably empty, it should come on only when you hit the button and the starter is energized. The tiny plastic line going to the intake manifold breaks off also, check the outside for ether smell after using it with a full ether canister.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
If you park the machine near a 120 volt power source a block (coolant) heater with a timer on it is a better choice than ether.
Here is what your either set up should look like.
Here is what your either set up should look like.
stinky64
Senior Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2017
- Messages
- 901
- Location
- java center ny
- Occupation
- big truck wrench/fixer of things
Inspect whatever type of block heater closely after you plug it in before leaving unattended...I had an old canister heater on mine that used to smoke every time I plugged it in,needless to say I've upgraded to a regular in block element style..Like Delmer said a gfci is kinda a must...last winter 2 barns/workshops near me went up in smoke from what they concluded were faulty heaters....Nothing to fear, just make sure they're in good shape...still a better option than ether,you don't need to keep them plugged in either,usually an hour or so,little longer in single digits....
well i'm slowly learning lots about the old girl. I tested the block heater(it was fine) and replaced the old cord to it. My starting problems worsened and decided to pull off the starter . You can see in the pictures the pinion gear housing was destroyed and the springs and rollers were gone. A little worried that they may be down in the oil pan . Have the parts on order. Otherwise the starter looks great. Had to clean up the points in the solenoid as they were scorched again due to this pinion failure. Will post a further update once i have the starter rebuilt and back in.
stinky64
Senior Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2017
- Messages
- 901
- Location
- java center ny
- Occupation
- big truck wrench/fixer of things
May be some chunks in the bottom of bell housing, but I've never seen any starter that had direct access to oil pan..may even be an inspection plug/hole in bottom of bell housing where you can fish those pieces out...
Ok here is what is happening . It always had a mind of its own if it would start easily or be very difficult to start. Did the boosting, checking cables and connections , changed batteries, found the broken pinion, rebuilt the starter along with new solenoid, replaced the key switch. After sitting the winter, it started with a boost but died where it sat after running for 1/2 hour. When i tried to start it again it would not start even with a boost. Took the rebuilt starter off again and the pinion teeth were a little chewed up just at the ends and the solenoid scorched. fixed these. Also , the transfer pump had a leak that was actually part of its housing and i put a temp fix on that until i could replace it.
Put the starter back on and it started with a boost. But there was a sound that i figured the starter pinion might be stuck on. That sound went away for a minute then back then gone again. I moved the tractor from is location and buckets etc worked , only moved it maybe 75 ft when It bogged down in some muddy spot and stalled. Again , would not start but this time the cables became very hot and the negative post on one battery melted before i could disconnect. The key was off but it continued to draw. Again, went through the wiring changed some cables that had heated but couldn't find anything much. Put the old batteries back on that still hold a charge. I put on a new transfer pump and bled the lines. Actually it was at this point that i changed the key switch too thinking that maybe the running on was a fault in the switch. I took the solenoid off and it was scorched again, cleaned it and put it on. Took the relay off and cleaned connections. It continues to run on after trying to start and cables again heating. Looking now at getting another starter but getting concerned that the flywheel is too hard to turn. Buckets are resting on ground but not fully down as front bucket is on a hill. Oh i suspect it died after moving the 75 ft because of the leaky transfer pump and low fuel. Any thoughts?
Put the starter back on and it started with a boost. But there was a sound that i figured the starter pinion might be stuck on. That sound went away for a minute then back then gone again. I moved the tractor from is location and buckets etc worked , only moved it maybe 75 ft when It bogged down in some muddy spot and stalled. Again , would not start but this time the cables became very hot and the negative post on one battery melted before i could disconnect. The key was off but it continued to draw. Again, went through the wiring changed some cables that had heated but couldn't find anything much. Put the old batteries back on that still hold a charge. I put on a new transfer pump and bled the lines. Actually it was at this point that i changed the key switch too thinking that maybe the running on was a fault in the switch. I took the solenoid off and it was scorched again, cleaned it and put it on. Took the relay off and cleaned connections. It continues to run on after trying to start and cables again heating. Looking now at getting another starter but getting concerned that the flywheel is too hard to turn. Buckets are resting on ground but not fully down as front bucket is on a hill. Oh i suspect it died after moving the 75 ft because of the leaky transfer pump and low fuel. Any thoughts?
Tinkerer
Senior Member
I think a careful inspection of all the ring gear teeth should be done.Your pinon gear teeth should not be showing any abuse on them.
It seems odd to me that the cables get that hot. Even though the starter may be energized while the motor is running.
One of the 4 wires on the pos. cable may be energizing the starter -- that should not be.
Intermediate starting easy and then not starting easy may be due to the hydraulic pump. I am not a Deere type person, but that pump may have a defective unloader in it. If it has one!
It seems odd to me that the cables get that hot. Even though the starter may be energized while the motor is running.
One of the 4 wires on the pos. cable may be energizing the starter -- that should not be.
Intermediate starting easy and then not starting easy may be due to the hydraulic pump. I am not a Deere type person, but that pump may have a defective unloader in it. If it has one!