1970 Case 580CK Gauges

[1968 Case 580CK]

Justatla......Well, my genny/tach are still working....keeping fingers crossed. Melben did mention above that someone had an alternator set up with a drive for the tach cable, for sale on the CaseDB forum. I will have to check out those links.

Since we are talking about generators here......here is a pic of how my voltage regulator is mounted. Seems like something is missing, or maybe it is mounted incorrectly?

 

[onemank6]

ebath after reading melbens post i think you are accomplishing what melben is saying as his way is still going threw the neutral switch with power so IT MUST BE IN S POSITION to receive power to the small terminal on the starter to start it. I would leave it as is but put in a ignition switch that returns to the on position on its own that way the power isnt sent to the starter after you let go of the key.I believe the biggest thing is make sure you run this wire threw the neutral safety switch which it should be according to how you said you wired it and like melben has said that switch is a momentary switch which means you dont want to crank your tractor for long periods of time allowing it to overheat. When i start mine i just put it in (S) position and turn the key to crank it over as soon as it starts i let go of the key and it disengages the starter. If you wanted to verify your hooked up safely pull the kill cable so it wont start and put it in gear with you on the seat and bump the starter it shouldnt do anything at all if your wired right then put it in (S) position and try it it should turn over then you know your wired right and your neutral safety switch is working.Im with melben i wouldnt bypass that switch which i dont think you have.
I wish i could help you with that alt i just dont know much about it but if you do decide to convert to the gm i could help you there.
Take care and i hope you get her figured out.

 

[onemank6]

Oh yea 68 thats different than mine i am with you on that i would keep her going as long as i could until it became a pain then maybe see about that alt with the tach drive.And to be honest the biggest thing that failed on the smaller tractors was the regulators there were just so many things that could go wrong with them and they usually did.

 

[ebath]

melben,

Thanks for your detailed explanation of how the start position on the gearshift works. The reason that I was so confused was that I've driven three different 508ck's and every owner taught me to put the gearshift in "S" first, then turn the key or depress the push button start. Apparently all had been rewired differently than original and the return springs must have quit working (mine has).

I'll review all the recent posts in the morning and see if I can make some more progress. The weather is supposed to be beautiful!

Ed

 

[melben]

Guys,

You all got me to thinking about the later Bs so I went back to the parts book and looked the starting circuit up, evidently there was some change between the ag side and ce, the 580 B does indeed have a starter button on the dash and a neutral start circuit switch in the cap, Since you fellows are telling me that the lever does not push against a spring to engage the starter but stays in the start position till pulled out I an only figure that the system was changed from the earlier tractors. I am sorry for any confusion I may have caused by my not being familiar with the change, If your cap does not have a spring loaded start position then wire it up so the Ign switch start position engages the starter but only with the NS switch in circuit and the same can be said for the push button.

Again , sorry for the confusion and especially to ebath for causing him confusion.

Mel

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Melben.....No worries mate......now I am glad that I dont have a failed spring in my gear shifter at the "S" position. Its impossible to retain all the changes Case made year to year in ones head. However, what you said made sense to me, because when I removed the ignition key/starter button from the metal bracket, I noticed that it looked like the starter button hole was not factory made, since it was not a nice smooth circle cut-out, but kinda roughly made. So, I was thinking that the starter button to the right of the key was done later.

 

[onemank6]

Melben thanks for the explanation i was begining to think my 1970 ck had a busted spring as well glad to know mine is normal I have enough to fix/paint/rebuild on mine without the unknown suprises.Thanks again

 

[ebath]

1968...I also thought my starter button hole was not factory made because it was not a nice, smooth cut. But I reinstalled the push button starter today in conjunction with the key switch and the neutral switch. Now everything works great!

I was also able to connect a new volt meter and the old fuel gauge. They both work great too!

Next week it will be the charging system, oil pressure gauge, and temperature gauge. Then it's off to the hydraulics guy to replace the seals in the backhoe controller.

Ed

 

[onemank6]

Hey Ed i just went to advanced auto today and purchased a temp gauge for my shuttle oil temp which is the same gauge you would use for water temp and it was on sale for like a $1.80 off they are like $16.00 total it is mad by bosch and has everything you need to hook it up they are the mechanical type gauges which are simple only wire you would run is for the backlight if you want that hooked up.they also had the oil pres gauge on sale.Glad to hear your making progress...

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

ebath........thats funny....maybe Case had someone drilling out that bracket, and thats just the way they came from the factory.....not a smooth punches hole, but a rough drilled one.

Hey.....does your fuel tank have a ground terminal on it? Xpac showed a pic of a ground lug under the tank, but I have not been able to find it on mine.

If you have the backhoe valve controller off, and only need to replace the seals in the 6 valves, its not that difficult to do. But if you want the hydraulics guy replace "all" the Orings in it, then thats a bigger job.

Are you able to send pics of your progress? You have the entire dash removed while doing all this?

 

[ebath]

1968...I don't see a ground terminal on the fuel tank. Everything seems to be rubber mounted.

I sure hope there is a fuel tank ground, because I'm grounding all of the gauges to the fuel tank! Let me now where the ground should be and I'll take another look.

I'm going to have my hydraulics guy remove the controller and then determine what needs to be done. I'd like this to be a one time thing and I'm ready to bite the bullet on the cost.

I can probably get some pics of my progress, but I couldn't figure out how to easily disconnect the fuel shutoff cable, so I've been rotating the dash around the steering column to redo the wiring. It's made for some interesting contortions and some difficult picture angles.

Ed

 

[onemank6]

heres a shot of it ebath they have red tape on them

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

ED......Yea, the fuel shut off cable was a bit annoying, but I managed to get a wrench up under the dash and loosen the lock nut on the cable, and then unhook it at the injector pump, and then slide the whole cable through the dash and out. Mine was wearing out, and a new one was pretty cheap.

Under another thread that Xpac is doing, he shows a pic of his tank and the two "grounding lugs". When I saw the pic, I realized that those two lugs are what the half round tube ( which the electrical wiring runs inside ) bolts to the tank with. Look under your tank, between the ignition key area and the front of the tank, and you should see the half round metal conduit which the wires run inside. So, I can loosen a nut and make a grounding wire to fit on it, and then tighten the nut back on. However, I will double check to make sure that it needs a ground......do a continuity test with volt meter to see if it is already grounded.

I cant remember if you said you had taken the backhoe off or not. When you look at my thread with pictures showing me working on the tower, you will see how much easier it is to get the tower assembly off when the tractor is out of the way. I would say it is almost impossible to remove w/o taking the backhoe off.

 

[ebath]

1968... I did lower the half round tube in order to route the wiring through it. Before I put it back in place, I'll attach a grounding wire. Thanks for the tip.

I have not removed the backhoe. I'm going to leave that one to the discretion of my hydraulics guy. Hopefully he will choose the method that results in the lowest labor charge!

It's going to be raining and cold here through the weekend so I won't make much progress for the next several days.


Ed

 

[onemank6]

Hey Ebath are you paying someone to rebuild your backhoe valves just curious because my neighbors got a 580b and we removed the backhoe then then the valves and sent it in and had it done it cost him $300.00 and from if yours is just leaking i think thats what 68case's was doing and i believe it would be a lot cheaper for you to do it yourself and id doesnt appear to be that bad if you pull the valves off the backhoe and just so you know its not that bad of a job to remove the backhoe as long as you tractor runs i can have mine off in about 30 min..Hows the charging system coming maybe you could post some pics of your progress.

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Hey Ebath are you paying someone to rebuild your backhoe valves just curious because my neighbors got a 580b and we removed the backhoe then then the valves and sent it in and had it done it cost him $300.00 and from if yours is just leaking i think thats what 68case's was doing and i believe it would be a lot cheaper for you to do it yourself and id doesnt appear to be that bad if you pull the valves off the backhoe and just so you know its not that bad of a job to remove the backhoe as long as you tractor runs i can have mine off in about 30 min..Hows the charging system coming maybe you could post some pics of your progress.

Xpac/Ed.......Well, once we have done the backhoe removal, it doesnt seem that bad. However, having another person to help is almost essential, to help put blocks under the hoe, to help loosen the main hold-down nuts, etc. Also, if those large nuts are on tight and you need more elbow room to get to them, I found having the fenders off was a big help (but not critical). I did a seperate thread on "how to remove the backhoe", which would help if you decide to do it. The other big thing, in my opinion, is to take plenty of pics of the hydraulic lines where they go into the control valves before you remove anything. That way you can always look at the pics if you are confused at putting it back together. Also, you gotta mark the hydrualic lines so you know where to put them later (for me, I used T-1,2,3,4,5,6, and B-1 through 6 for Top row and Bottom row, and went left to right). Maybe the hydraulics guy has done all this before and wont charge an arm and a leg. However, you can save a few coins if you have a buddy and can do this yourself.

 

[ebath]

1968/xpac,

I'd love to rebuild the hydraulics myself so I could save some money and learn something new. But my business is so busy right now that it would be impossible. I'm completely slammed for the foreseeable future!

My hydraulics guy is about a mile away and works on most of the agricultural tractors in the area. My neighbors all highly recommended him. Plus, he also welds and I have a couple of welding projects for him.

I bought this backhoe to move logs and lumber around my sawmill. Starting in January, I'm going to be getting a lot of trees, so I need to get the backhoe set up with a thumb and some pallet forks very soon. Otherwise, I'm looking at a whole lot of manual labor!

Ed

 

[onemank6]

yea you will want forks for sure and i get the time thing to

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Ebath.......Yep, makes alot of sense now......have the expert tackle the work, and he can have it done right and done quick. You have much more important work to do. Excellent to hear you have a sawmill. I used to help run my cousin's old-style Frick mill, and I think it had a 4 or 5 foot blade on it. Used a 6 cylinder detroit diesel for power......here is a pic:


I hauled alot of large walnut, cherry, and oak logs to this mill, and enjoyed the hard work of making my own lumber.

 

[Doug Overkill]

Great thread. I came across this and it inspired me to looking at my scary dash wiring on my 1971 580ck. Lots of melted wires and it's a bit amazing to me that all my headlights worked with them that way. But it probably explains my battery drain. That's a different story.

So I am redoing the dash and have an OIL light on the dash. The wire was melted and not going any where. Where is the oil pressure sending unit that this goes to?

I have a water temp above the starter motor but don't see an oil pressure unit?