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1845c Wont start

firecatf7333

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
60
Location
Rochester NY
It just clicks when I turn key. I put jump box on it and it would start. Then I bought new battery. It started twice, and now I have to put the jump box back on it. Alternator???


Also, on my grapple bucket, when I close the grapple it closes all the way down and wont stop unless I tap the lever to go back open. It opens the way it should. When I press the foot lever to open it stops when I let foot off. When I close it goes all the down and then bogs down, as if its still trying to close more, unless I tap the lever to open back up
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,167
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
It started twice with new battery then you had to jump start it?

It starts fine with the jump box but not the new battery? This does not sound right to me. A new battery should start it dozens of time even if the alternator is not working at all. Or did you start it and run it for a full day each time?

All I can think is either the new battery is junk or there is some major draw on the electrical system killing it.

I would start by disconnecting the battery and charging it up and if possible take it to who ever sold it to you and have it load tested.

If it tests good then when you re-install it watch to see if there is spark when hooking up the last cable, should not be any if the key is off.
 

DeanM

Active Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Messages
27
Location
Vancouver Island BC
I would suggest cleaning out under the spool valve for the aux hydraulics. The spool on mine sticks out the bottom and if it's dirty in there it doesn't work properly.
 

firecatf7333

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
60
Location
Rochester NY
Deanm, could you take a pic and post the spool valve.

I installed new battery and ran for 1 minute. Shut off started immediately after and started up fine. Ran machine for 30 mins and then shut off. Started a few minutes later and it started fine again. Ran for another 30 mins, and then tried to start the following day, but when I turn key...it just clicks, and won't start unless I use jump box...just like with old battery.

So I ran it for about an hour with new battery, which must have been charged (Napa) BC it initially started. The alternator can't be working can it?
 

alrman

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
3,308
Location
QLD Australia
Occupation
Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Test the system voltage, at the battery, with a voltmeter, while the engine is running. If the alternator is charging it will read around 13.5v - 14v.
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,167
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Deanm, could you take a pic and post the spool valve.

I installed new battery and ran for 1 minute. Shut off started immediately after and started up fine. Ran machine for 30 mins and then shut off. Started a few minutes later and it started fine again. Ran for another 30 mins, and then tried to start the following day, but when I turn key...it just clicks, and won't start unless I use jump box...just like with old battery.

So I ran it for about an hour with new battery, which must have been charged (Napa) BC it initially started. The alternator can't be working can it?

Don't sound right. those few starts on a new battery and then sitting over night should not kill a good battery.

In addition to testing as alrman suggests I'd say check voltage at the battery with key off and then have someone try to crank it and see what the voltage is while holing key in start position for a couple seconds.
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,891
Location
WI
If it test OK running, disconnect the cable overnight and see if it will start the next day. Could be a bad new battery, or too much current "leaking". could be the diodes on the alternator are leaking, so even though the alternator is charging fine, it's still causing the problem. I say this because there's usually not much else that would leak current on equipment (compared to all the things that have power on a car when it's off)
 

kshansen

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Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,167
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
If it test OK running, disconnect the cable overnight and see if it will start the next day. Could be a bad new battery, or too much current "leaking". could be the diodes on the alternator are leaking, so even though the alternator is charging fine, it's still causing the problem. I say this because there's usually not much else that would leak current on equipment (compared to all the things that have power on a car when it's off)

That's true. One way you can sport this at times is if after sitting all night before you try to start it just feel the alternator. If it's warm there's your problem. Or if you disconnected the battery overnight watch when you hook it up if key is off and you see a spark when touching the cable to the battery I'd suspect the diodes in the alternator.
 

pstrucking

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Messages
7
Location
johnstown ohio
is the battery dead when it wont start. if the starter or solenoid is going bad it might start when you have fully charged battery, might check connections at starter
 

melben

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Jan 14, 2008
Messages
1,029
Location
Williamsport, Pa
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Retired 50 Yrs with Case dealership
Put a relay on it to handle the heavy draw of the starter solenoid, a common problem with them and many Case hoes that are updated to the Nippondenso starter.
 

kshansen

Senior Member
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Mar 11, 2012
Messages
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Location
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Put a relay on it to handle the heavy draw of the starter solenoid, a common problem with them and many Case hoes that are updated to the Nippondenso starter.

This is a good idea for ours. Once in a great while it will "pop" the main fuse while trying to start. It seems to hesitate to crank over and I'm thinking maybe the pull in windings are not getting full voltage and not pulling in far enough to activate the hold in windings and the pull in windings draw just a touch too much amps for the fuse. Good project to schedule for next service that is coming due in a week or so. Thanks for the suggestion.

Have not heard from Firecat if he solved his problem.
 

firecatf7333

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
60
Location
Rochester NY
I put the volt meter on it yesterday. The battery showed around 12.5 volts. Then I tested the negative/positive connections that attach to the battery, those showed 15 volts.

The battery shows 12.5 volts with machine running and off.
 

Delmer

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Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,891
Location
WI
I put the volt meter on it yesterday. The battery showed around 12.5 volts. Then I tested the negative/positive connections that attach to the battery, those showed 15 volts.

The battery shows 12.5 volts with machine running and off.

If I'm understanding correctly, you have loose or corroded battery terminals. There should be no voltage drop across the connections. The negative terminal to ground should have no voltage difference and the alternator bat terminal to positive battery terminal should have very little voltage drop.

Fix the easy stuff before worrying about the relay.
 

firecatf7333

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
60
Location
Rochester NY
I cleaned the battery terminals and the ground was the problem. Thanks that was dumb on my part as they looked clean, and I really should get a new connector as its not snug.

How about the grapple sticking? I tightened the bolt that holds the aux hydraulic lever, and also cleaned out the tiny cylinder that moves the aux hydraulics up and down.
 
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