• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

My Case 580C Rehab.

Mr580backhoe!

Mr580backhoe!

Active Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2020
Messages
41
Location
Connecticut
I have a case 580c and when I bought it the steering valve was leaking. I did some research and was able to by all the seals to rebuild it with. It’s fairly straight forward rebuild the biggest pain was taking the valve out and putting it back in. 3B0B0E15-98EA-4212-A4DB-2BB88C0DBB1E.jpegD70C51E0-6CC4-4ECE-801E-B9F1A50A2688.jpeg8702D002-C0CA-4D60-8A3B-43C8C4FBFA1F.jpeg
 
S

stinky64

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2017
Messages
894
Location
java center ny
Occupation
big truck wrench/fixer of things
Yep, the rear seal in the shuttle can be replaced w/o removing anything just like any other trans...Hey Mr580, are you still privy to those research parts numbers for the valve? If so hook a brother up or at least where ya got the parts:D
 
Last edited:
Mr580backhoe!

Mr580backhoe!

Active Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2020
Messages
41
Location
Connecticut
I actually happen to have a original case 580c service manual and in the back it has a parts catalog. So what i did was took down the part number i needed and then googled them. In the included pictures you’ll see I’ve circled the seals that I ordered to fix mine with. E716D400-7A2A-4F99-8234-C21A5825FAD3.jpegDC5AB990-45A5-4DFE-9B2D-D24D14D52208.jpeg
 
S

stinky64

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2017
Messages
894
Location
java center ny
Occupation
big truck wrench/fixer of things
Just thought maybe you could point the guy in the right direction...That is what this forum is all about, right?
 
J

JDT4430

Active Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2020
Messages
39
Location
Wharton, Tx.
Well over the last few weeks I have made some good progress. Replaced the alt., fan belt, all the sections of rubber suction hoses and any other rubber lines that I saw, removed cleaned and reinstalled the fuel tank, pulled the dash out fixed all the holes and cracks in it and installed new gauges and rewired everything, dash is currently just sitting there I have a little more wiring to do then will bolt it down. Also dropped the pan from the shuttle and cleaned the screen and installed a new oring on the screen, and replaced the out put shaft seal. The list is getting shorter but I it seems to keep getting longer at the same time. In the process of replacing the suction hoses I drained the hydraulic tanks so need to get it filled back up then going to try and follow the flush procedure to clear out as much of the old oil as I can. After all of that is done I will replace the seal on the steering valve (I talked to Dale at tractor stuff and he explained how to do it and sent me the seal kit). The only thing that should be left after that will be completely rebuilding the brakes.
 
D

Doug Brown

Active Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2020
Messages
34
Location
Cedar City Utah
JDT4430 said:
I recently purchased a Case 580C (unsure of year model due to the serial plate appearing to have rusted away but Im thinking its a newer model as all of the cylinders have single pistons in them and it is a power shuttle). We got it for $1000 and after checking all fluids and topping off the hydraulic oil and the shuttle oil was able to but a good battery in it and fire it up fold up and lock the backhoe up while it was pouring oil out of one of the boom cylinders and drive it onto a trailer and haul it home. I purchased a seal kit that had seals for all of the cylinders minus the two steering cylinders but I also ordered them as well. I repacked both boom cylinders and all four cylinders on the loader, replaced one of the long metal lines that runs down the loader frame and brazed up a pin hole in one of the curl cylinder lines. This got me to the point that I am at now which allowed me to at least dig a hole to bury two dead cows. There are still a few small leaks that need attention and most of those will be taken care of by rebuilding the remainder of the cylinders. Also the ranch hand at the ranch we bought it from said the motor had been rebuilt sometime in the last ten years and did not have very many hours on it.

With all of that being said while digging the hole it seemed to lack digging power. If only using one function it seemed to be decent but not great and if you tried to move say the boom and the dipper together it would just stop unless it was a very small cut, It also was very slow to pick up a full bucket of wet material from the bottom of the hole. The bucket curl by it self seemed to have plenty of power. I have not had a chance to use the front end loader yet so I can not say how well it is working.

I have clicked through almost every page in the backhoe forum and tried to read through every thread that appeared to have to do with 580C's and some that didn't. With that being said the first thing that I am going to check is the pressure on the discharge line form the pump as a starting point and go from there(found a thread from 2013 that explained how to do this). My question for now is were else do I need to check pressures at and what other things should I check to figure out were the issue may be.

Just as a back ground/reason we bought the backhoe I work full time and run cows on the side with my dad an there have been plenty of times on the ranch were we really could have used a backhoe and when I came across this one it was to cheap to pass up. We have 500 acres and run about 120 head of cows and that keeps us busy enough so be patient with me as I do not get the chance to go work on the backhoe every day.
Click to expand...
I have the same problem with mine. I also paid a $1000.00 for mine with a bad motor. I changed the filter helped a little. I'm going to check the vent someone reduced it to a 1/8 pipe vent and it looks plugged up.
I'll let you know if it works. I'll post if it does
 
J

JDT4430

Active Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2020
Messages
39
Location
Wharton, Tx.
Thanks for the heads up. I havent got anything done in the last week and half and not really sure when I will get back to working on it but really just need a good day of working on it so I can finish up a few things.
 
J

JDT4430

Active Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2020
Messages
39
Location
Wharton, Tx.
Is there supposed to be a welded in pin on the lever for the shuttle shift. Looking at mine it looks like one was welded in at one point but is completely gone now and I think that may be why it never realy had any spring to it. If some one could post a pic that would awesome.
 
J

JDT4430

Active Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2020
Messages
39
Location
Wharton, Tx.
DirtyHoe said:
Nice work.
What products/procedure did you use to repair the dash? I was concerned it wasn't 100% fiberglass. Some molded products are hard to get a patch to stick too.
Mine is in poor shape and the local wrecking yard dashes are worse.

Steve
Click to expand...
I used bondo products from auto zone. On the flat sides I layed parchment paer down on the floor then set the dash on that then worked from the inside. Sand everything first then apply some resin and either cloth or mat and repeat till built up enough. Then on the outside I used a little body filler were needed to smooth it off. Mine is far from perfect but much better. The resin does not stick to the parchment paper.

586700EE-B61A-4234-AE98-139AE65937B5.jpeg
 
T

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,376
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
That is the shift handle in the image I posted.
Did you open the link I posted and see that item #5 is the pin you are asking about ?
Part #6 is the spring for the shift handle.
I would replace the grip that is missing from your handle. Your hand will thank after using it quite a bit in one day.
 
D

DirtyHoe

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2016
Messages
290
Location
Albany, Oregon
I welded the holes shut and drilled it for a coiled spring pin. This is what the assembly looks like. You will need to buy the J-shaped spring. It holds the detent for neutral.

Steve
20210605_110730.jpg 20210605_110704.jpg
 
Last edited:
J

JDT4430

Active Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2020
Messages
39
Location
Wharton, Tx.
DirtyHoe said:
I welded the holes shut and drilled it for a coiled spring pin. This is what the assembly looks like. You will need to buy the J-shaped spring. It holds the detent for neutral.

Steve
View attachment 240237 View attachment 240238
Click to expand...
Thanks that is exactly what I was thinking it should look like. I have the j spring but like I said someone either weld a pin in there at some point our it came from the factory like that but as of right now there is not a pin there as it has rotted away or wore away so there is nothing pushing against the j spring.
 
D

DirtyHoe

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2016
Messages
290
Location
Albany, Oregon
I think the factory welded a pin there, then it rots off over time. Sometimes the parts manual doesn't give enough info on how things go together. Especially like this part when you're not sure what it use to look like originally.

Let me know if you need any other pictures of the 580C. I have hundreds of them so I didn't forget how things went back together.

Steve
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top