chandler starling
Active Member
So I guess we are going to wrap a come a long around the axle and try to pull it back in place. We screwed up by not bracing the front of machine and chocking the wheels first
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2001 cat 730 ADT
- Thread starter chandler starling
- Start date
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- Tags
- adt cat 730 center pin
If you don't have the front of the machine supported on stands and all the pressure removed from the suspension struts, you're not going to be able to move the axle with the precision you need and frankly, the machine isn't safe to be under.
chandler starling
Active Member
I would completely agree about it not being stable enough to be under so after the fact we lifted the front of the machine up and placed blocks underneath it
chandler starling
Active Member
No cmark I am not. Can you explain
Each fender has an inspection hatch inside which you will find two hand-valves. One valve lowers the suspension, one valve raises it. To raise, you need the engine running. To lower the engine can be stopped or running. When you have finished the job the suspension needs to be set at the correct height.
Attached instructions.
Attached instructions.
chandler starling
Active Member
Good evening,
After another day of working on the machine. We are still not successful on dropping the A-frame. We have followed the instructions to a T. We just can’t not get the bearing to come off the pin in the the A frame. We have tried hammering, prying and using a jack to pull it off. We built an object with a steel plates, rods and a jack. 25 ton jack wouldn’t budge anything. We ended up bending our steel plates.
So another day down and still not much progress.
We did get the axle to roll back a little bit with a come a long. But we didn’t spend much time on that since we still need to drop the A frame.
Being the first time working on a ADT I must have picked the worst thing to work on.
After another day of working on the machine. We are still not successful on dropping the A-frame. We have followed the instructions to a T. We just can’t not get the bearing to come off the pin in the the A frame. We have tried hammering, prying and using a jack to pull it off. We built an object with a steel plates, rods and a jack. 25 ton jack wouldn’t budge anything. We ended up bending our steel plates.
So another day down and still not much progress.
We did get the axle to roll back a little bit with a come a long. But we didn’t spend much time on that since we still need to drop the A frame.
Being the first time working on a ADT I must have picked the worst thing to work on.
chandler starling
Active Member
Thank you that would amazing.
I’m reading the article you posted about the suspension height. I can’t measurement that would be the correct height? It says it’s differnt for every machine but doesn’t tell you what it should be.
I’m reading the article you posted about the suspension height. I can’t measurement that would be the correct height? It says it’s differnt for every machine but doesn’t tell you what it should be.
It's on the last page. Raise the suspension all the way, measure dimension A and subtract 1.38". Shoot for this dimension on both sides. The long-winded explanation is trying to explain that if you try to achieve minus 1.38" in one go it won't work, because as you lower one side, dimension A at the other fender will increase due to the body pivoting at the suspension cylinder.
chandler starling
Active Member
Ok now that makes more sense to me. Thank you for clarifying.
Ok so your puller bolts to the A frame and you use the center bolt to push against the pin. That’s a nice set up. Can I borrow it tommorow ? Haha..
I might end up trying to build something like that.
Ok so your puller bolts to the A frame and you use the center bolt to push against the pin. That’s a nice set up. Can I borrow it tommorow ? Haha..
I might end up trying to build something like that.
chandler starling
Active Member
Good day gentlemen,So hallelujah!! We made progress today!! We finally got the A Frame to fall from the center pin. The bearing had a lot of slop in it. But thank heavens it has not wore through the outer race to hurt the bore size.
The tapered sleeve came off the pin with a few licks with the hammer and the bearing was worked out with a punch and hammer. After cleaning the bore we put the new bearing in and beat it down to position. Then we beat the tamper sleeve in the bearing.
So now we have to reassemble the A frame and put new parts in the stabilizer cross bar and install.
Nige
Senior Member
Always nice to hear a success story.
I'll be honest and say that with the amount of "slop" you appeared to be describing in your OP I confidently expected that bearing (and the A Frame) to fall off.
Question: On your truck is that bearing greased via a remote grease line or does it have a zerk right on the A-Frame.? If it is a remote grease line you should check that it has not rubbed through somewhere, They generally do.
Before reassembly do you fancy putting a jack under the hitch and carefully moving it up and down a hair to check for movement in the hitch bearings..? That's probably the best time to do it. Refer to my post #9 on Page 1.
I'll be honest and say that with the amount of "slop" you appeared to be describing in your OP I confidently expected that bearing (and the A Frame) to fall off.
Question: On your truck is that bearing greased via a remote grease line or does it have a zerk right on the A-Frame.? If it is a remote grease line you should check that it has not rubbed through somewhere, They generally do.
Before reassembly do you fancy putting a jack under the hitch and carefully moving it up and down a hair to check for movement in the hitch bearings..? That's probably the best time to do it. Refer to my post #9 on Page 1.
chandler starling
Active Member
Mr. Nige
The grease has a remote line. I checked the grease line and it did not have a leak. I cleaned the inside of the fitting that screws into the head of the A frame to assure it wasn’t clogged.
But I noticed on the old bearing that the grease groove. was packed with old, dry , hard grease on one half of the bearing. So the bearing was only getting grease to one half of the bearing.
Also yes sir we will be checking the hitch bearings like you mention in a previous post.
The grease has a remote line. I checked the grease line and it did not have a leak. I cleaned the inside of the fitting that screws into the head of the A frame to assure it wasn’t clogged.
But I noticed on the old bearing that the grease groove. was packed with old, dry , hard grease on one half of the bearing. So the bearing was only getting grease to one half of the bearing.
Also yes sir we will be checking the hitch bearings like you mention in a previous post.
chandler starling
Active Member
Mr. Nige
As stated before, with your wisdom and help we were able to get the truck up and running. It has been running like a top. We have done a full service on it and all fluids look good. The transmission fluid looked fantastic, I firmly believe that this truck has had a rebuilt transmission. I can tell the cab has been tilted and a few other things that make believe it’s been worked on.
But I come to you ( or anyone else) today to seek information on the Diff lock. (The button on the floor board) you press that button and hold it with your foot but you don’t feel or see any difference. With all the rain we have been getting, the truck gets stuck a lot more than we would like. I would imagine you would feel a slight bump or hear something with the switch engaged. Am I wrong? Or how can I test that switch is working?
As stated before, with your wisdom and help we were able to get the truck up and running. It has been running like a top. We have done a full service on it and all fluids look good. The transmission fluid looked fantastic, I firmly believe that this truck has had a rebuilt transmission. I can tell the cab has been tilted and a few other things that make believe it’s been worked on.
But I come to you ( or anyone else) today to seek information on the Diff lock. (The button on the floor board) you press that button and hold it with your foot but you don’t feel or see any difference. With all the rain we have been getting, the truck gets stuck a lot more than we would like. I would imagine you would feel a slight bump or hear something with the switch engaged. Am I wrong? Or how can I test that switch is working?
The floor switch engages the inter axle lock inside the transfer box. To engage the diff locks both the diff lock switch on the dash must be turned on and the floor switch must be pressed.
First check. When you stomp on the floor switch does the light on the dash turn on?
First check. When you stomp on the floor switch does the light on the dash turn on?
Nige
Senior Member
Following up from Cmark's question above regarding the switch on the dash, do you have an operation & maintenance manual for the truck.?
If not, did you know that you can download one from Cat in pdf form for $46.? It contains loads of useful information.
If not, did you know that you can download one from Cat in pdf form for $46.? It contains loads of useful information.
chandler starling
Active Member
Cmark,
Yes, I have pressed the button on the dash and the button on the floor at the same time. It makes no difference if the dash button is flipped on. Yes the light comes on with the push of the button on the dash or if push the the floor button.
Yes, I have pressed the button on the dash and the button on the floor at the same time. It makes no difference if the dash button is flipped on. Yes the light comes on with the push of the button on the dash or if push the the floor button.