One way to test cylinders for internal leaks is to block off the port at one end then put pressure in the opposite end as in the picture below:
Pressure going in the "rod end" of cylinder should try to force the piston and rod to move to the right in the above picture. If however the piston seals "ARE" leaking past the rod will extend out. How fast will depend on how bad the leak is!
In a prefect cylinder with no air in the cylinder the rod would not move at all however if there is a slight amount of air in the end opposite the rod the rod will move a small amount to the right.
With two cylinders working together like on the tilt circuit it would be best to check them both at the same time.
If the pressure is applied at the opposite end of the cylinder a leaking piston seal will instead cause the ram to retract when pressure is applied to extend the rod.
I had a good selection of block off plates and disks but don't have part numbers for them here. The best ones were the disks that were the same size as the end of the lines where you could just remove one of the split flanges, slip hose out and slip the disc with oring in it back in place and reinstall the flange half. Not sure if there is a list of these by sizes but that would be handy if someone has one, NIGE? any chance you have one?