Dump truck options.

I bet no one here was expecting to see that when you've been talking about your Mack! That's a rebadged Renault.

How times have changed! In the late 70's, the first tandem dump I drove was a Ford L-800. It had a 477 gas engine and a 5x4 tranny. What a dog. It couldn't work a hard 8 hours with the fuel it had on board (but it sounded cool). I think it got gallons to the mile. The company had a couple GMCs with 427 gassers and 13 speeds. Those things would run compared to the Fords. Then they graduated to a bunch of Ford L-8000s with 3208 Cats and 13 speeds. We thought we were something. Of course it didn't take long to figure out the Cats were throw-aways. It didn't seem to be a problem them as they had at least 40 of those in the fleet and there were always engines around. With the 13 speeds there was always enough power to get started and get around the site, but they had a hard time keeping 55 mph on the freeway. They would routinely load them with 40k of asphalt. That's probably about 14k more than they were designed for. Nobody was surprised when they started breaking rear axle housings.
The truck you are looking at has more horsepower than some of our heavy haulers had in those days.

Steve Frazier said:

I bet no one here was expecting to see that when you've been talking about your Mack! That's a rebadged Renault.

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Yup! Not a true Mack at all. Which is why it's not worth much of anything!! Lol and impossible to find parts for.

Steve Frazier said:

I bet no one here was expecting to see that when you've been talking about your Mack! That's a rebadged Renault.

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Beat me too it. Yeah parts are hard to find for that model.

I would try to make it a little longer with it if I didn't get this coolant leak, but everything is so old under there I can't get it apart to even see how bad the crack is. So she is done, makes sense it did sit for 15 years not being used or started or anything until last spring, did good for last season, won't make it another

Black71gp said:

Ok price wise.

I can't get him less than 15k on the l9000 and dump box and pto. He would give me 2000 trade for my old Mack. Plus tax, it's a small dealer guy.



15 too much?

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Your first thought might be the best direction to go . That 13 foot bed looked pretty good in the picture . Dealer takes the Mack off your hands in the trade .

Set up the L9000 Ford with the bed and keep pulling the tag trailer .

Or ...... Look around for older Mack dump trucks that you can still get parts for & service .

http://www.truckpaper.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=6415927

The possibilities are endless .

Main thing is be able to do most of the work on the truck yourself whatever you decide .

I think for now and cash flow and just starting, the l9000 is gonna be my best bet. Wanna see if I can keep the brand new tires I just put on the old make before the trade in. I'll keep everyone updated on what I do.

Picked up the box today, truck will be meeting and swapping later this week.

Question. Is the the right PTO And pump I need? It's what was given to me for the truck

Looks to have 3 ports. marked "in" "out" and then there is a 3rd which has a check Valve.

That's the return line so the pump wont overheat while the pto. is in gear but you aren't moveing any oil. You only realy need that if you plan to power anything other than the dump like a spreader it is a good line to hook up a filter to since you already have the port.

Looks like you should end up with a nice truck. The fords were a good truck, just stay on top of the rust, thats what killed the ones we had. The other drawback as mentioned is parts are tough to get and expensive I remember the air tanks that go under the cab were hard to find and very expensive 10 years ago. With that 3406 you wont neet to split any gears (other than the last one) unless you are severly overloaded and going up a steep hill. The only bad part is if you are going over soft ground, even with the wider tires it will submarine where a 3306 or L10/M11 will go without a problem.

Finally got the truck and box to my house, first light coat of paint on the box.

Question is,

How far from the back of the cab to the front of the box? I was thinking 5", higher on the box has supports for the dirt guard come out 3.5" so that still leaves a gap there.

This puts the rear hinge just at about the back of the rear tire, maybe even a little towards the axle center line of the rear axle. Which looks to be just about right to me.

I like my boxes as far back as possible. I don't like dumping near the rear tires or on to the trailer hitch, air hook ups or electical connectors. I see a lot of them that are set up to dump near the rear tires. I guess whatever works for you.
FWD

Thanks, I can put wherever just brings its further back from the cab. Where I have things mocked up now, center of dump hinge is 19" behind centerline of the rear axle. End of dump is 10" behind that, and I am thinking of putting an 8" shoot off the back of the box for dumping as well.
I'll work on getting some photos of location to see how it should work

Hinge would be in this general area on the back of the frame.

Pintle plate right behind it. Back of the box is 10" behind the front line for the hinge

Both of my trucks, both Fords with set forward axles, are hinged a little farther back. The one I like the best is an LT9000. The center of the hinge pin is 23" behind the center of the rear axle and the end of box is about 16" from the center of the hing pin. I need to load more in the front of the box for proper weight distribution. I like the long over hang especially when I am installing culverts, it dumps on top or over the culvert. You have a set back front axle so you will have no problem getting enough weight on the front axle. You could go back a little farther if you can get the hinge welded in okay. I'm sure it will work the way you have it figured.
DWF

Slowly coming along, truck is striped and ready for paint, painting the box currently.

Just working on running air and trailer lighting to the back of the truck as well.

Have to install the pto and control box in the cab still

c

It looks like you are doing a good job on your project. I can't do anything like that as we have a lot of snow on the ground. I am doing some things in the garage on warmer days. I put enough heat on to keep the chill off.
FWD

Outside photo was a thaw. That was Tuesday. Wednesday we have 13" on the ground again of new snow.

The 3406 cat makes the truck more valuable than a 3306 or an m11, The Louisville fords had a comfortable cab and tons of them where produced with various engines, I know for a fact to triple check radiator measurements when ordering a new one as the various engines and uses such snow plow hoods and front pto made a difference in height and size.

If the body is to far beyond hinge it can lower slowly, or a stuck stump could prevent body from coming down at all, however to short behind hinge and you can't dump into a paver.

To clear up someone's earlier post about the tractor protection valve. As a tractor running down the road bobtail applies its brakes it has no weight over the rear tires and the drive axle tires would lockup, so to prevent this when the trailer is disconnected from the truck part of the tractor protection valves job is to limit braking on the drive tires, when trailer is attached again full braking power to the drive axle. Now you put a dump box on that truck and fill it up with wet gravel and your tractor protection valve thinks it is bobtail and limits braking to drive axle service valve even though you are loaded and need full braking.

dieseldog5.9 said:

To clear up someone's earlier post about the tractor protection valve. As a tractor running down the road bobtail applies its brakes it has no weight over the rear tires and the drive axle tires would lockup, so to prevent this when the trailer is disconnected from the truck part of the tractor protection valves job is to limit braking on the drive tires, when trailer is attached again full braking power to the drive axle. Now you put a dump box on that truck and fill it up with wet gravel and your tractor protection valve thinks it is bobtail and limits braking to drive axle service valve even though you are loaded and need full braking.

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Your names are mixed up. You are describing the bobtail valve. That is indeed how it works. The tractor protection valve is the red knob on the tractor. Its purpose is to cut off the air to the trailer if the trailer air pressure gets too low and keeps some air for the tractor.