JLarson
Senior Member
We use crimps with an oxide inhibitor and dual wall heat shrink. Usually use welding cable, we can get it in bulk or just as drops at a good deal from our welding supplier.
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I know others here have opinions, but if it were mine, I would purchase welding wire (wire used for leads). It is flexible, which helps in routing. As far as size, I usually go #1 or 1/0 (stated ought) depending on the application. I usually crimp the connector, then solder it. A soldered joint will have very low resistance, however, if for some reason the wire gets hot, the solder could melt and fail. This is why I first crimp, then solder. After it cools I like to add heat shrink (which must be installed prior to the connection), the kind that has adhesive sealer in it. I personally prefer to use the terminal lugs like you linked, not the traditional battery terminal end. In fact, I like the series 31 battery with the 3/8" studs instead of the lead posts. Most of the trucks that I serviced had this battery setup without issue.
....., but he forgot to wash off the flux, those cables will rot off in a few years while the soldered connection will be clean as ever.
Don't use flux. Use absolutely polished metal & rosin core solder.That's what I don't like about the solder method. Flux (acid) will cause corrosion and increase resistance over time.
Here is a pic of the new cables and battery I got. They used the heat shrink with hot glue inside to seal the crimped ends. I switched to the eyelet type ends.
Like resistors, batteries in series ex: two sixes in a 12 volt system, will not equally share the available voltage. Might see one get 8 volts, the other get 4. Very soon this leads to a dead battery. It is critically essential that they be identical batteries & in exactly the same condition. Phone company switchgear is powered by batteries. These used to be 24 four foot tall 2 volt glass lead/acid batteries. The man in charge of battery maintenance was absolutely suffering from OCD. Monthly, he would dismantle all the jumper straps, clean, and torque. He checked specific gravity & voltage & adjusted for precise consistency. He could easily get 20 years out of a set of batteries.Looks nice! Sometimes I use dual post batteries. I like the stud mount with standard holes too. They make battery installations much easier than with traditional lugs. It is especially convenient if you frequently disconnect the battery.
Electrical guru question; I have two batteries in my truck. To fully charge each battery I remove a ground wire from one battery and install my dual station battery tender. The thought is this is the only true way each battery with charge independently. I believe if I just connect the tender to one side it will charge both batteries, but limit or stop charging when one hits the target voltage (12 + volts). Thoughts?