Junkyard
Senior Member
It’s quite simple. To use an often overused quote.....” I’ve backed more miles under a trailer than some guys have pulled them forward” lol.
Fixed 5th wheel is fine. Roller has to go because kingpin will hit on the way up as well as it will make the profile of your ramps so tall the neck with catch them in certain angles.
Block goes under the neck after you have backed under it but before pulling away. Heel of the neck is still on the trailer so you’ll want it to slip in there with a little slack. As you pull forward the heel slides down the beam of the trailer and it’ll rest on the block.
If you want the ramps to work as efficient as possible the roller needs to go or be relocated and the frame has to be cut to allow a nice gradual angle as well as getting them nice and low since you can’t dump. If they’re made right you don’t have to back under it hard. Get the trailer up and broke over on the flat part and then go easy until it latches in the 5th wheel.
You could rig the trailer up to be pulled on with the winch like oilfield style but the kingpin probably isn’t removable so that’s one obstacle.
I will have to do some digging but I think I have a template for the ramps I used to build. They are similar to Cozad which in my opinion are the best ramps out there.
Several things to take notice of.....removable tails in case you have swing clearance issues or need to slide forward to get the weight up on the steer or pusher (not an issue for you)
Keep them above the tires but not so high the neck will catch them in a turn, also you want them close to the profile of the tire but need a bit of height to keep rollers or crossmembers off the tires
This set actually had a part that slid with the 5th wheel. I even had spacers so I could leave it forward and unhook without sliding the 5th wheel loaded. Those trucks had a 60” slide.
Fixed 5th wheel is fine. Roller has to go because kingpin will hit on the way up as well as it will make the profile of your ramps so tall the neck with catch them in certain angles.
Block goes under the neck after you have backed under it but before pulling away. Heel of the neck is still on the trailer so you’ll want it to slip in there with a little slack. As you pull forward the heel slides down the beam of the trailer and it’ll rest on the block.
If you want the ramps to work as efficient as possible the roller needs to go or be relocated and the frame has to be cut to allow a nice gradual angle as well as getting them nice and low since you can’t dump. If they’re made right you don’t have to back under it hard. Get the trailer up and broke over on the flat part and then go easy until it latches in the 5th wheel.
You could rig the trailer up to be pulled on with the winch like oilfield style but the kingpin probably isn’t removable so that’s one obstacle.
I will have to do some digging but I think I have a template for the ramps I used to build. They are similar to Cozad which in my opinion are the best ramps out there.
Several things to take notice of.....removable tails in case you have swing clearance issues or need to slide forward to get the weight up on the steer or pusher (not an issue for you)
Keep them above the tires but not so high the neck will catch them in a turn, also you want them close to the profile of the tire but need a bit of height to keep rollers or crossmembers off the tires
This set actually had a part that slid with the 5th wheel. I even had spacers so I could leave it forward and unhook without sliding the 5th wheel loaded. Those trucks had a 60” slide.