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Titan weld on thumb install.

NH575E

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This is my Titan 36" weld on thumb install:

This did not come with instructions and I'm not saying this is the right way to install one but its how I did it and it seems to work okay.

First off my welding is limited by lack of skill and equipment. My welder at home is a Lincoln SP100 mig. I was doing this outside with a light breeze which isn't the best conditions. I turned the heat all the way up, set my wire feed at 4, and cranked the shielding gas up to 28 CFM. Each weld required 3 or 4 passes starting as deep in the groove as I could get and working my way out. This little 100 amp welder has a 20% duty cycle so I have to weld a couple of minutes then let it cool for 8 or 10. Takes patience but it gets the job done.

IMG_1309.jpg

To set it up I curled the bucket all the way in and pulled the dipstick in to a point I could rest it. I assembled the thumb components and set it on the boom resting against the bucket. I set the stow bracket so the thumb was in contact with the bucket teeth. This had an unplanned benefit in that when I went to stow it after use I could curl the bucket all the way in and the support arm holes were in alignment with the stow bracket. Of course I had to set it up and mark the location where I needed to grind off the paint then set it up again to weld.

IMG_1306.jpg

IMG_1307.jpg

The support arm was rounded on one side but they left the back side flat. Either way I installed it would bind before the holes lined up so I had to grind the ends so they were rounded on both sides. The length of the support arm isn't long enough to set the thumb a full 90 degrees. I was hoping to be able to set it slightly forward but that isn't possible with the supplied support.

IMG_1302.jpg

This is one heavy hunk of metal for the price of $215 shipped. The thumb has 5/8" sides with 1/2" front and back plates. The mounting and stow brackets are formed 1/2" u channel. The support arm is made from 3/4" sides with 1/2" front and back plates. It won't be anywhere near as handy as a hydraulic thumb but will be much better than no thumb at all. It could be converted to hydraulic but the cost isn't in my budget right now.

IMG_1316.jpg
 

Welder Dave

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Seriously, I would have a welder with a truck come over and redo the welding on your thumb with 7018. He might charge you 2 hours (it's about an hour of welding and grinding your welds out) to come over but in my opinion it's just a matter of time before your welds let go. As much as you think your machine gets the job done you are fooling yourself. Your machine is just not designed for heavier welding and won't have the required penetration. An SP100 is about the lowest amperage MIG welder you can get and is designed for material 1/8" and under. The last thing you need is to be picking up a heavy log or something and have the thumb break off. There's over 5 tons of force your bucket could put on thumb, you want good welds! It's money well spent.
 
Last edited:

NH575E

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Seriously, I would have a welder with a truck come over and redo the welding on your thumb with 7018. He might charge you 2 hours (it's about an hour of welding and grinding your welds out) to come over but in my opinion it's just a matter of time before your welds let go. As much as you think your machine gets the job done you are fooling yourself. Your machine is just not designed for heavier welding and won't have the required penetration. An SP100 is about the lowest amperage MIG welder you can get and is designed for material 1/8" and under. The last thing you need is to be picking up a heavy log or something and have the thumb break off. There's over 5 tons of force your bucket could put on thumb, you want good welds! It's money well spent.

I appreciate your concern Welder Dave but in the environment I am working I don't think anyone will get injured if my thumb breaks off. It might hurt my feelings. :)

I purchased this welder in 1993 and have NEVER had a weld crack or break. I have a 5'x10' utility trailer I built with it the first year I owned it and it's still working as designed. I did bend the trailer last year putting some oversized stumps on it with an excavator. I put jack stands under the frame behind the bends and straightened it back with the same excavator. No broken or cracked welds. Go figure?

If the thumb becomes my first welding folly I will update so others can be leery of using undersized equipment.
 

Welder Dave

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It always amazes me how people will drive a nice vehicle, have nice equipment and a well stocked tool box but when it comes to welding or welding equipment, all of a sudden they want to spend as little as possible.
 

Buddyo

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Dec 16, 2014
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ontario
NH575e
Thanks a whole bunch for going to the trouble of taking pictures! I will be ordering one this winter and noted too that it did not come with instructions. Let us know how you find the position of the thumb is. Is it for brush, rock etc? I want mine for fenceline removal of prickly ash and buckthorn and small trees. Good luck.
 

Delmer

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In the first pic it looks like the welds don't go all the way to the end under the pin, that seems like it would let that bracket flex a little and possibly contribute to failure. You might want to continue the welds to the end. Not across the end, that would change the stress, or whatever.

Otherwise it looks fine to me. Mig welding has a way of looking good and not getting enough penetration, but I can do that with a stick welder also, it just takes more experience:D
 

NH575E

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In the first pic it looks like the welds don't go all the way to the end under the pin, that seems like it would let that bracket flex a little and possibly contribute to failure. You might want to continue the welds to the end. Not across the end, that would change the stress, or whatever.

Otherwise it looks fine to me. Mig welding has a way of looking good and not getting enough penetration, but I can do that with a stick welder also, it just takes more experience:D

Yeah I was being lazy. I might pull the thumb off and run a bead near the end. I have already moved some stumps and limbs with it and seen no signs of fatigue. The force is at least divided up between the bottom pin, support arm, and it's pins. Not planning to curl the bucket against it till it won't move. Just enough to pick stuff up.

Here is an example of weld strength versus metal fatigue. This is a debris fork I made out of 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/4" wall tube. I welded a piece of 1/2" x 1-1/2" flat bar across the back and under the center. I messed up and caught one of the legs under a stump I didn't see. It ripped the square tube in half but the welds didn't break.

IMG_1321.jpg
 

NH575E

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NH575e
Thanks a whole bunch for going to the trouble of taking pictures! I will be ordering one this winter and noted too that it did not come with instructions. Let us know how you find the position of the thumb is. Is it for brush, rock etc? I want mine for fenceline removal of prickly ash and buckthorn and small trees. Good luck.

Buddyo,
I am stumping 5 acres so I will be picking up stumps and logs that my BH is capable of lifting. Some are too large and I will have to chain them and drag them out. I need to clear around and make piles that I can burn with some control.
 

NH575E

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Yair . . .

NH575E. Why the stitch welds? To my eyes it looks very odd.

Cheers,

Just saving time and materials. Like I said, my equipment is undersized for the job.

Even if I had a good stick welder I would not start at one end and make a continuous weld to the other. I always tack on alternate sides and locations to prevent warpage.
 

Buddyo

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Well 575E you have had a chance to use the thumb a while now. Any thoughts you could share about the install, position on the dipper etc.
 

NH575E

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Well 575E you have had a chance to use the thumb a while now. Any thoughts you could share about the install, position on the dipper etc.

Haven't used it since the original test. Been dealing with power outage but had a tree down that might see some thumb soon.
 

Buddyo

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I should have known the storm might cause you problems. We too were wondering how bad it was, have a 5thwheel trailer stored near Townsend GA. Good luck, just wondering.
 

NH575E

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Well 575E you have had a chance to use the thumb a while now. Any thoughts you could share about the install, position on the dipper etc.

Still haven't done a lot with it but I have moved a few logs and yesterday I used it to rip an 8" pine out of the ground. I had to grab the tree as high as I could get and bring it down then I had to get it in different positions and work it back and forth before getting the roots to let go. I think I put a pretty good stress test on it. No signs of weld fatigue yet. Next I want to try digging with it in the extended position to see if it gets in the way or if I can leave it in a functional position while digging.

It's nowhere near as handy as a hydraulic thumb and takes some getting used to but it's better than nothing. You can shake a fair amount of dirt off any stumps and debris you pick up with it.

If anyone has added a hydraulic thumb to a tractor similar to mine I would like info on what and how much it cost to add the extra hydraulics.
 

Scrub Puller

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Yair . . .

NH575E. Thumbs are not common here but I mentioned some time back I saw one on a small excavator powered by 12v power-pac such is used on tipping trailers and the like mounted on the boom.

It looked pretty simple. . . the bloke reckoned it worked fine and was the cheapest way by far on that particular machine.

Cheers.
 

NH575E

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Yair . . .

NH575E. Thumbs are not common here but I mentioned some time back I saw one on a small excavator powered by 12v power-pac such is used on tipping trailers and the like mounted on the boom.

It looked pretty simple. . . the bloke reckoned it worked fine and was the cheapest way by far on that particular machine.

Cheers.

After some time to use this and getting in and out to reset it I have decided it's just barely better than nothing. I am researching ways to automate so it is more useful. I cannot leave it in a functional position while digging.

I would be very interested in finding a 12v linear actuator that could power this thing. Short of that if I had a step by step tutorial on how to add a hydraulic diverter say on the bucket curl circuit I will entertain that depending on cost.
 
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