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Cat 955L saved from being paperclips. Looking for help on tensioners and injectors.

kb9tci

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
356
Location
Illinois
Got the rollers in and the tracks tight!! Hopefully I'll find a little time tomorrow to work it a bit. I am going to keep all the sheet metal off for now to check for dribbles and whatnot. If everything looks good, I will button it up for now and run it for a season to see how it holds up. I need to rebuild some cylinders yet, but I want to see how bad they are seeping.


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kb9tci

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
356
Location
Illinois
It felt good to push a little dirt! I was able to get the ol' beast out of the shop and give it a break-in run. I put a couple hours on it so I could dump the oil. I was about done playing and something started to feel a little "off".

I am not sure what it is... It's still running on all cylinders and seems almost normal, but there is what feels like an imbalance on the drive line. It is with engine speed. I thought the worst that I was slapping a rod bearing, but I don't think that's the case. I ran it a little bit, but it never got worse. I could not tell if it was in my head or not.

I drove it into the shop and dropped the oil, and there is no shinies in the oil I could see. I pulled off the valve cover, and the lash seems fine.

I am trying to talk myself into dropping the pan and check everything, but I don't really know if I'm chasing my tail. It almost feels like if its in the front of the transmission. Is there a chance the torque converter is out of whack?

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kb9tci

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
356
Location
Illinois
Still have the shields off to see what's going on, but it felt good to get it out of the shop for a bit.

IMG_251101852325226.jpg
 

Nitelite

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Jul 5, 2013
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Ashland City TN.
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Your tracks wouldn't be running over that chain hanging off of the back of the machine would they? That would be something that would make you feel that something was just not right.

The old gal looks good!
 

Dickjr.

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Joined
Mar 24, 2011
Messages
1,484
Location
Kentucky
Not real familiar but have thoughts , rear motor mounts or drive shaft from torque to trans issues?
 

tctractors

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Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,425
Location
Worc U.K.
Odd feeling through the feet is most usualy the torque end bearing, its something you can hear at near low idle from walking around the shovel at a small distance, its knowing what it should sound like when things are good that helps with this judgement, but if things seem off someplace its most often the cause. tctractors

p.s. it could be a snapped or loose mounting bolt at the back case??
 

kb9tci

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
356
Location
Illinois
Your tracks wouldn't be running over that chain hanging off of the back of the machine would they? That would be something that would make you feel that something was just not right.

The old gal looks good!

I know. I need to take that chain off. It was a handy storage spot all winter while it was parked inside. I picked that chain up for $12 at an auction this winter. Can't complain for a 5/8" by 20' long chain with hooks!

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kb9tci

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
356
Location
Illinois
Odd feeling through the feet is most usualy the torque end bearing, its something you can hear at near low idle from walking around the shovel at a small distance, its knowing what it should sound like when things are good that helps with this judgement, but if things seem off someplace its most often the cause. tctractors

p.s. it could be a snapped or loose mounting bolt at the back case??

That makes sense with the torque bearing. It was not doing it much at first, and I noticed something was not quite right after a bit of use.

So... do I have to yank the engine to repair this, or can I pull the biscuits and input flange to get to it?

What bolts at the back case are the ones to which you are referring?

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Outasite

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Messages
185
Location
Mi
A dry u joint bearing cup, will start to seize and make a wobble or a "somethings wrong" feeling.
 

kb9tci

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
356
Location
Illinois
Not real familiar but have thoughts , rear motor mounts or drive shaft from torque to trans issues?
Ironic that you mention rear motor mounts. When I was going through the engine this winter, I found that one was loose. All the shims were still there, but the bolt spun freely. It is now torqued! Good thought!
 

kb9tci

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
356
Location
Illinois
A dry u joint bearing cup, will start to seize and make a wobble or a "somethings wrong" feeling.

I know exactly what you are talking about. I piddle on an old Allis HD5-B from time to time, and it has a driveshaft connecting the clutch to the transmission. This one has a coupler with rubber biscuits. The biscuits appear to be in good shape.

Another way to describe the "odd feeling" is something similar to fan bearing going out, or one that is bent. The fan runs true(ish) on this one. There is some minor damage to the blades where the bearings have been out before.

I had a harmonic balancer start doing the dance on an old Chevy 6.5L and it was similar as well. Only it is towards the rear of the engine (I think) on this one.
 

kb9tci

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
356
Location
Illinois
I'm coming to the realization that my service manual on CD from Jensales is not helpful at all... In the powertrain disassembly section, it is completely missing a page on removing the torque converter. That is helpful... :Banghead
 

Mobiltech

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Jan 14, 2014
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1,709
Location
Sask.
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Self employed Heavy duty mechanic
I don't know if this was mentioned but did you check the alignment of the drive coupling with a dial indicator. Sorry the pictures didn't print

Flexible Coupling Drive


Removal And Installation






1-Bolts (sixteen). 2-Joints (four). 3-Bolt, washer assembly, washer (assemble with concave side against washer assembly). 4-Flywheel output flange. 5-Torque converter input flange.
Checking Flexible Drive Coupling Alignment

Position engine in mounting location within the main frame. Check for correct engine-to-transmission alignment as follows:

1. Remove the torque converter input flange.

2. Fasten a 7H1942 Indicator (with a 7H1940 Universal Attachment) to the torque converter input shaft using a 7H1948 Snug, 7H1945 Holding Rod, 3/8 in. (9,5 mm) diameter rod 3 in. (76,2 mm) long and a 1J9778 Hose Clamp.



CHECKING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL ALIGNMENT (Viewed from left side of machine.)
Total indicator reading must not exceed .080 in. (2,03 mm). Correct any misalignment by adding or removing shims under engine rear supports.
3. Zero the indicator on the outside diameter of engine output flange as illustrated. Take an indicator reading every 90° while rotating the torque converter input shaft one complete turn.

4. Remove the 7H1940 Universal Attachment. Position the anvil of the dial indicator between the bolt holes and the ouside diameter of engine output flange as illustrated.



View Image


CHECKING FACE ALIGNMENT (Viewed from left side of machine.)
Total indicator reading must not exceed .026 in. (0,66 mm). Move front of engine as necessary to obtain correct dimension.
5. Zero the dial indicator. Take an indicator reading every 90° while rotating the torque converter input shaft one complete turn.

6. Recheck both settings and adjust if necessary. When alignment is correct, tighten engine mounting bolts as follows:

a. Front mounting bolts - 460 ± 50 lb. ft. (63,6 ± 6,9 mkg).

b. Rear mounting bolts - 225 ± 30 lb. ft. (31,1 ± 4,1 mkg).

Misalignment

If it is necessary to shift the engine from one side to the other in the frame, loosen the hold-down bolts and shift the engine accordingly.

If the holes for the hold-down bolts are enlarged, dowels should be installed to hold the engine in the proper location after it is bolted down.

Extreme misalignment is probably the result of bent main frame channels. They should be straightened. Extreme wear in the engine front support will also cause misalignment
 
Last edited:

kb9tci

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
356
Location
Illinois
I don't know if this was mentioned but did you check the alignment of the drive coupling with a dial indicator. Sorry the pictures didn't print

I did have both rear mounts and the biscuits loose to jack the engine up a fraction of an inch to pull pan bolts. I did not check alignment after that. I think I will check this to see if that is the case. Thanks! I would do a dance if that was the issue!
 

kb9tci

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
356
Location
Illinois
Tony, is the bearing you refer to ref 8? I did notice the seal is weeping a little when I was working on the engine.
c207856.gif
 

tctractors

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Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,425
Location
Worc U.K.
No 8, is the boy that spits the dummy out, but its also an option to check things out some in the other parts that are ley on the floor after the converter case has been popped off, the big tip hear is to drop the belly plates and give a hell of a good steam clean with the floor plates out etc, then drive the tractor up on timber baulks as the front bit is removed by going down (best method if cab etc is fitted) it can come out the top but its a good bit more work.
tctractors
 

OldandWorn

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Nov 12, 2009
Messages
908
Location
Md/Pa
Odd feeling through the feet is most usualy the torque end bearing, its something you can hear at near low idle from walking around the shovel at a small distance, its knowing what it should sound like when things are good that helps with this judgement, but if things seem off someplace its most often the cause. tctractors

p.s. it could be a snapped or loose mounting bolt at the back case??

Uggg.....sounds just like my 955L :( Gravel-ee rumble heard while walking around the machine only at lowest idle.
 

kb9tci

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
356
Location
Illinois
No 8, is the boy that spits the dummy out, but its also an option to check things out some in the other parts that are ley on the floor after the converter case has been popped off, the big tip hear is to drop the belly plates and give a hell of a good steam clean with the floor plates out etc, then drive the tractor up on timber baulks as the front bit is removed by going down (best method if cab etc is fitted) it can come out the top but its a good bit more work.
tctractors

Silly question here. Can I pull off the front cover while its still in the machine?
 
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