gasifier
Well-Known Member
Is there actually a grease zerk? Never greased a seat before. Sorry for my inexperience. LOL
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Caterpillar 426 Series II?
- Thread starter gasifier
- Start date
My C model, and the B model that I had prior, does not have grease fitting for the swivel of the seat. I use PB blaster on the seat rails (the part that allows the seat to move fore and aft). I have never had any issues with the swivel.
gasifier
Well-Known Member
My experience is mostly with John Deere models, their seats are different. Usually just a knob you pull up and that releases the seat to turn.
So this is my first Caterpillar Backhoe. It has a long lever on my left when I sit in the seat. If I’m remembering correctly, pulling the lever all the way back allows the seat to slide forward and backwards. Bringing the seat to the all the way back position allows you to then push the lever forward and then spin the seat. The spin function is definitely having problems. I’ll try to find where to grease or maybe spray it with a lubricant. Spraying isn’t going to smell very good for the rest of the days operating in the cab though. I’ll wait until the end of the day. LOL
edgephoto
Senior Member
I have a 426 that is probably 3 or 4 years older than yours. I cleaned lubed and got my seat in working order. I attached a couple pictures of the swivel mechanism from mine. I figure yours is probably very similar.
These are from underneath. The swivel is basically two plates with a bolt.
These are from underneath. The swivel is basically two plates with a bolt.
gasifier
Well-Known Member
Interesting. Thanks. I’ll see what I can do.
I'm fairly certain that there are ball bearings for the swivel action between those (2) plates. If you can separate them and clean the surfaces out, that might be all it takes (unless the issue is in the locking mechanism).
I mentioned using the PB Blaster for my C model seat...Before you go using anything like that, it is important to note that this is a very dusty environment. If you lubricate with any oil based product it will collect dust and dirt and require constant lubrication.
I mentioned using the PB Blaster for my C model seat...Before you go using anything like that, it is important to note that this is a very dusty environment. If you lubricate with any oil based product it will collect dust and dirt and require constant lubrication.
Nige
Senior Member
Maybe a dry silicone spray lube would be the right thing.? I’m sure that’s what the O&M manual recommends for seat mechanisms, door locks, etc.
edgephoto
Senior Member
There are no ball bearings. There are hard rubber pads that it slides on. The pivot is a bolt and washers. I had my seat torn down to all the parts.
Best to use a dry lube. Grease or oily lubes will attract dirt. Yours is so stiff you may need to use a penetrating oil to get things freed up. Then clean it off and switch to dry lube.
The best thing is to remove the seat and take it apart, clean everything, remove the rust and reassemble.
gasifier
Well-Known Member
Hey folks. I blew a hydraulic line today. Managed to crawl up under it tonight and found what I thin is the culprit. I hope this is it anyway. Hard to believe this rupture blew that much fluid out.
I was able to drive it back quick when it went. But the steering was just starting to get hard when I got back.
Anyway. I have a Tractor Supply, and a NAPA. I’m thinking I’ll go to NAPA. Any suggestions on hydraulic fluid from them? Can I go with the standard or should I go with there premium brand? And would that meet CAT specs? I’ll have to read whatever I find in stock at the store there. But wondering if you guys have experience with this.
I know I have bought hydraulic fluid from them before for my Kubota tractors, and for John Deere 310 J too.
Have I mentioned laying on a tarp on the snow, up under a 16-17,000 lb. TLB at night, when it’s 6 degrees outside is not my idea of a good Friday night?
I was able to drive it back quick when it went. But the steering was just starting to get hard when I got back.
Anyway. I have a Tractor Supply, and a NAPA. I’m thinking I’ll go to NAPA. Any suggestions on hydraulic fluid from them? Can I go with the standard or should I go with there premium brand? And would that meet CAT specs? I’ll have to read whatever I find in stock at the store there. But wondering if you guys have experience with this.
I know I have bought hydraulic fluid from them before for my Kubota tractors, and for John Deere 310 J too.
Have I mentioned laying on a tarp on the snow, up under a 16-17,000 lb. TLB at night, when it’s 6 degrees outside is not my idea of a good Friday night?
edgephoto
Senior Member
Some NAPAs make hoses but ask around to find out who does hoses in your area. NAPA stores typically do not do a very good job. I bought my oil at the Cat. dealer. I was looking to see what meets Cat spec at Tractor Supply, O'Reilly's or Advance Auto. Only 1 of them carried some Cat spec and it was the same price as Cat branded fluid. If you lost enough fluid that stuff stopped working you will need a couple pails at least. I think the machine holds 12 gallons or more.
gasifier
Well-Known Member
The closest CAT dealer is 122 miles away. I was hoping I could use NAPA or Tractor Supply brand. Will it work? Should. Right? Not a good idea?
gasifier
Well-Known Member
I just got back from a dealer in Canton, NY. Cazenovia Equipment (used to be Laberge and Curtis) has always been good with hydraulic repairs. I decided the 20 minute drive will be worth it. Plus there is a little store that has great breakfast Puzza on the way! LOl. I have had them do many repairs for me over the last 25 years. They made me up a new hydraulic line 
and looked up the Caterpillar specs and cross referenced to what they sell.
This is what they say will work well. They said a local company uses this in their Caterpillar Wheel loaders as well.
and looked up the Caterpillar specs and cross referenced to what they sell.This is what they say will work well. They said a local company uses this in their Caterpillar Wheel loaders as well.
Oil requirements are called out in the manual. Since your machine was made so long ago it is likely that those specs have been superseded by newer spec oil. Sometimes this is because of the evolution of the product (different requirements of the newer engines or other components), and sometimes it is because they oil MFRs have upgraded their product. A call to the dealer might be in order to find out what is currently recommended for the individual compartments of your machine. There has also been a lot of information about oils (I think there has even been a discussion about TSC oils, etc.) on the HEF site. Do a search.
I can't speak for your closest Cat dealer but the ones that I have experience with (both in CA and CO) had drop boxes for their customer who were not close to stores but within the franchise area for said dealer. The drop boxes that I have seen are locked metal cages where the dealer can drop ordered parts at a remote, centralized location (like on a route) where their customers can pick them up. The cages are locked with either a combination or a Cat key lock. Maybe you can inquire at the dealership to see if they have something like that.
I would guess that most name brand oils will work in your engine. I'm not sure if 10w/30 is the best for your conditions. I have always used 15w/40 (>13k hours on my 416c so far- with religious 250 hr intervals) but I am not in your area.
That being said, there is a certain John Deere oil (maybe 303 (?) engineered a long time ago for Deere engines of that era) that has born a lot of lawsuits over engine failures attributed to that oil (Or so I have heard). If inclined, here is a link to a YouTube video:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...=vN72Peg0z4s&usg=AOvVaw19Dqvko3ZvHazcG70P0x0t
edgephoto
Senior Member
This is for my 426 but I would imagine yours is the same since they are only a few years apart in manufacture. The important thing is to make sure the oil has a high zinc content and will keep water in suspension.
edgephoto
Senior Member
If you were at a John Deere dealer I would have bought the HyGard. It meets the older TO-2 Caterpillar spec. and is made to keep water in suspension vs. a milky sludge like most motor oils turn into when water is present. I am no expert and others will chime in with way more experience and either tell me I am wrong, right or it doesn't matter. I was driving myself nuts when I was trying to figure out what to run. Since the Cat dealer is in my area and was roughly the same price I went with that.
gasifier
Well-Known Member
This is not for my engine. It is for the hydraulics. Separate system.
Here is a picture of what my Operation and Maintenance manual says for Hydraulic Oil.
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gasifier
Well-Known Member
Manual shows refill capacity of hydraulic tank oil is 9.9 U.S. Gallons. I bought two five gallon pails. Poured 1 and 3/4 in. Then after I fired it up and worked loader and backhoe a little, then I dumped the rest in. I’ll check it again through the site glass after I have worked it a bit to include stabilizers.
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gasifier
Well-Known Member
So. Another “few” questions for all of you.
After fixing the hose and filling the hydraulic tank with fluid, I started the backhoe up. It had been plugged in for about 2-1/2 hours at that point. All I had time to do was let it run for a bit while I picked up all tools, tarp I was laying on, and get empty buckets and other junk into the garbage area in detached garage.
Then I just had time to move it from where it was parked to where I normally keep it near the barn. This level ground area is close to barn door which is good for plugging it in when it’s cold. Then it was time to take off for other family stuff.
When I was moving it the backhoe seemed to be easing or weeping to one side. If sitting in the driver’s seat, and looking back at the hoe, it was slowly easing or weeping to the left. Now, that same side is where I replaced the hydraulic line to the directional cylinder.
Is there something else that keeps the hoe steady from going side to side?
Could a pin have broken? Or something similar? And then that created more stress on that old hydraulic line?
When the hydraulic failure happened I heard a somewhat loud ping or bang. Then the fluid started spraying. I just thought that was the initial rupture and fluid under big pressure hitting the underside of the cab floor.
Now I have been working with clay. Because it’s so cold, some of the clay is freezing to the bucket. So this is just a guess, but there has to be a good bit of extra weight in the clay on that bucket and arm. 40-60 lbs maybe? Just guessing. Could be much more.
Not sure. But. Maybe it will all settle out tomorrow after I have had a chance to slowly use the hoe by moving it to both sides after it is warmed up in this cold.
But while moving it, it seemed to slowly seep to low side of machine. Which was the low side of hill I was driving on.
Let me know if you have an experience with a hoe doing that while moving and you think there is something else wrong. Or not.
Thanks again.
After fixing the hose and filling the hydraulic tank with fluid, I started the backhoe up. It had been plugged in for about 2-1/2 hours at that point. All I had time to do was let it run for a bit while I picked up all tools, tarp I was laying on, and get empty buckets and other junk into the garbage area in detached garage.
Then I just had time to move it from where it was parked to where I normally keep it near the barn. This level ground area is close to barn door which is good for plugging it in when it’s cold. Then it was time to take off for other family stuff.
When I was moving it the backhoe seemed to be easing or weeping to one side. If sitting in the driver’s seat, and looking back at the hoe, it was slowly easing or weeping to the left. Now, that same side is where I replaced the hydraulic line to the directional cylinder.
Is there something else that keeps the hoe steady from going side to side?
Could a pin have broken? Or something similar? And then that created more stress on that old hydraulic line?
When the hydraulic failure happened I heard a somewhat loud ping or bang. Then the fluid started spraying. I just thought that was the initial rupture and fluid under big pressure hitting the underside of the cab floor.
Now I have been working with clay. Because it’s so cold, some of the clay is freezing to the bucket. So this is just a guess, but there has to be a good bit of extra weight in the clay on that bucket and arm. 40-60 lbs maybe? Just guessing. Could be much more.
Not sure. But. Maybe it will all settle out tomorrow after I have had a chance to slowly use the hoe by moving it to both sides after it is warmed up in this cold.
But while moving it, it seemed to slowly seep to low side of machine. Which was the low side of hill I was driving on.
Let me know if you have an experience with a hoe doing that while moving and you think there is something else wrong. Or not.
Thanks again.
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