Yeah, the first ever broken easy-out in a broken bolt

[Truck Shop]

After spending 5 years working auto machine years ago and removing countless broken studs
and bolts in cranks, heads & blocks-The first order get it dead centered when starting to drill.
Second drill all the way through to relieve bolt, don't stop midway when heating it will make it's
way the entire length let it set and completely cool. In most cases it will lose it's grip and turn
out.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Lol.. ahhh memories.!!
I remember being a nube and drilling half way thru..& wondered why it wouldn’t come out..even after torching..??
It doesn’t take to many of those before u learn..

 

[towbar]

Nice work..
I’ve broken a few.. the boss showed me how to shatter them and get out the bits..

Would it kill you say how? It's too late in this case but I'm dying to know

Got an update from Amazon to expect my diamond bits by mid-week, what speed/pressure do I turn diamond coated boring bits? I've never used any before. I have about an inch to bore but I expect the easy-out remnant to become loose as I grind down to its narrower section along the way. At that point I should be able to suck it out with a magnet.

 

[Acoals]

A sharp strike with a punch in the center will often do a number on a extractor.

Or just heat it a bit. EZ outs are really brittle and they just go to pot when they get heated.

I really don't like using extractors much, I prefer using Torx bits; they bit better, work both directions, and aren't as brittle. Some brands work better than others; I have a Blue Point set that are real strong, but are soft enough that they start to twist before the break, Snap On Torx bits seemed to be stronger, but would shear before they twisted.

 

[towbar]

I think I'm done with the spiral type of easy outs, they're useless for big game. I've also ordered some torx-like easy-outs but haven't received them yet, I figure they don't force the piece to the wall as much as the spiral type.


The +/- 1/4" diamond bore bits are hollow, I took this picture to show how badly (and fast) they wear down. I had ordered 3 boxes of 10, used up 14 of them first to bore out the easy-out remnant (below) and then to dress the hole walls ready for tapping.


What remained of the easy out after boring it just came out inside the hollow bit.


Once the easy-out was removed (HUGE sigh of relief), there were two separate ledges left to dress down, this time with the side of the diamond bits. The one way at the bottom was the one left by the bored out residual easy-out of about 5/8". For dressing them down I tried diamond bits again but this time in the air gun but that was way too powerful and unstable so I put the diamond bits back into the battery hand drill used before.


The final product, some of the threads near the top are clipped a touch but there being more than twice the required thread depth plus the replacement screw being about 3/16" longer I feel very good about it.

 

[towbar]

I've never thought of the dremel and diamond bit. I'll try that one sometime. Thanks Doug.

To the original post, I would be welding a oversize washer, then weld a nut to the washer, I don't tig, so I would be MIG welding it.

I rarely try the easy outs, and almost exclusively weld washer and nut to stuck/broken off bolts.

This was my first time with diamond bits and I was surprised how smoothly they chew their way, not fast but I've seen slower carbide drill bits (have boxes of them on hand before starting). I used a light touch and low speeds, maybe 1000-2000 rpm, at first it looked like each operation was going to take an eternity but no, with a little patience it all gets done.

 

[OzDozer]

I detest screw extractors, because you're usually already working with a corroded and broken fastener, and the screw extractor usually ends up breaking, too!

But if I do have a broken fastener that is showing signs it might come out, I find the Ridgid screw extractors work the best, because they don't keep expanding the broken stud/bolt. But the drilled hole must be to the specified diameter.

Screw Extractors | RIDGID Tools

Screw Extractors

www.ridgid.com

 

[Vetech63]

You guys can only give away 75% of the secrets. Save that last 25% for some major money. lol

 

[colson04]

This was my first time with diamond bits and I was surprised how smoothly they chew their way, not fast but I've seen slower carbide drill bits (have boxes of them on hand before starting). I used a light touch and low speeds, maybe 1000-2000 rpm, at first it looked like each operation was going to take an eternity but no, with a little patience it all gets done.

Glad to hear you got your problem solved @towbar

 

[1693TA]

I have this set and they work well. Wasn't priced near when purchased either:

Walton 1/8-1" Tap Extractor Set

Walton 1/8-1" Tap Extractor Set. Usually ships in 1 day. Buy it and Save at GlobalIndustrial.com

www.globalindustrial.com

 

[towbar]

I detest screw extractors, because you're usually already working with a corroded and broken fastener, and the screw extractor usually ends up breaking, too!

But if I do have a broken fastener that is showing signs it might come out, I find the Ridgid screw extractors work the best, because they don't keep expanding the broken stud/bolt. But the drilled hole must be to the specified diameter.

Screw Extractors | RIDGID Tools

Screw Extractors

www.ridgid.com

That's the kind I have in the pipeline (looks like the SAME set) should be getting two ordered sets soon. When the bolt is big, say 1", you have room for welding but not so with 1/4-1/2" diameters. These are more in line with my budget

RIDGID 35580 Screw Extractor Set

RIDGID 35580 Screw Extractor Set. Great savings and get fast delivery when you order online at ITM.com.

www.itm.com

This type also offer the advantage of cycling back and forth not available with spiral extractors.

 

[Tinkerer]

This thread reminds me of a discussion in Shop Talk about Artu drill bits.
I have a set and they drill some really hard material.
YouTube has a couple of videos about them.