Texas Hayman
New Member
Great question Seabiscuit! i would love to know as well..on a side note i am going to register my Ford LN 8000 as a farm vehicle,basically all it does now is pull tractors,bailers and hay trailer.
-
Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
Semi tractor and gooseneck
- Thread starter seabiscuit
- Start date
My understanding of the rule is that you need a Class A CDL to pull any trailer with a GVWR of 10,000lbs regardless of weather you are pulling it with a 1/2 ton pickup, class 8 truck, or riding lawn mower (well ok, maybe not with the lawn mower
). You don't need a Class A if it is the truck only, no trailer, and then it depends on the GVWR of the truck.
I don't really know the specifics of the class system, but believe it depends on the GVWR of the truck, regardless if it is single axel, tandem, tri axel, quad, etc, but while you might be able to register a single axle tractor as a class 8, you would not have the cappibility to haul the load you are rated for (leagaly at least), and your plates & insurance would be a lot more expensive. Like wise if you registered a quad axle dump as a class 6 you might be over your weight rating without a load.
If you have farm plates you don't need a CDL, just an "F" endorsement (here in michigan anyway). Occasoinaly a farmer will get busted and not be able to convince the authoritys that his load of gravel is a farm commdity, but that is rare around here.
). You don't need a Class A if it is the truck only, no trailer, and then it depends on the GVWR of the truck. I don't really know the specifics of the class system, but believe it depends on the GVWR of the truck, regardless if it is single axel, tandem, tri axel, quad, etc, but while you might be able to register a single axle tractor as a class 8, you would not have the cappibility to haul the load you are rated for (leagaly at least), and your plates & insurance would be a lot more expensive. Like wise if you registered a quad axle dump as a class 6 you might be over your weight rating without a load.
If you have farm plates you don't need a CDL, just an "F" endorsement (here in michigan anyway). Occasoinaly a farmer will get busted and not be able to convince the authoritys that his load of gravel is a farm commdity, but that is rare around here.
Orchard Ex
Super Moderator
Seabiscuit - Go down to the MVA and ask for a copy of the MD Motor Carriers Handbook. The latest one I have is the 2003 edition with the green cover. It'll have the answers to all these questions.
Remember that even if you don't need a CDL, you'll still need a DOT medical card for a commercial vehicle over 10k lb.
Remember that even if you don't need a CDL, you'll still need a DOT medical card for a commercial vehicle over 10k lb.
Electra_Glide
Senior Member
Seabiscuit,
Biggest issue is that the tractor's rear suspension is designed to carry heavy loads. This makes for a stiff ride when pulling lighter trailers like campers, race car haulers, etc.. This stiffer ride puts a lot of wear and tear on the trailer.
The solution is to install a "ping tank". Here's a link that explains it:
http://www.landlinemag.com/Archives/2001/Feb2001/Your_Equipment/retirement.html
You can do a google search for "ping tank" and there are lots of other links.
Second biggest issue is getting the 5th wheel height correct so that the trailer rides level.
Joe
Freightrain
Well-Known Member
Cdl
I see my little driving vids are popular here too? LOL!!
That's me in the B model.
I drag a 40ft Haulmark trailer for my race car. To help ease the pain on the trailer, I cut the spring pack down to only 3 leaves and it rides pretty nice. My trailer is 3K lbs on the pin, so 22K spring pack would not move much. Granted I can't hook to a real trailer with the current set up, but not a real problem with truck just a toy.
My truck is historically plated, though I do hit scales when open to avoid any unwanted "chases" for blowing by. Six years without any issues and I've been three states away.
I see my little driving vids are popular here too? LOL!!
That's me in the B model.
I drag a 40ft Haulmark trailer for my race car. To help ease the pain on the trailer, I cut the spring pack down to only 3 leaves and it rides pretty nice. My trailer is 3K lbs on the pin, so 22K spring pack would not move much. Granted I can't hook to a real trailer with the current set up, but not a real problem with truck just a toy.
My truck is historically plated, though I do hit scales when open to avoid any unwanted "chases" for blowing by. Six years without any issues and I've been three states away.
sbrem
Well-Known Member
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Freightrain. Glad to have you here. I don't know if there is anywhere on the net that your video hasn't been posted!
Countryboy
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2006
- Messages
- 3,276
- Location
- Georgia
- Occupation
- Load Out Tech. / Heavy Equipment Operator / Locomo
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Freightrain! :drinkup
Freightrain
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the welcome!
Who wooda thunk something like that would turn to be such a cult favorite? LOL!
Just some more information for seabiscuit:
"Another question: I'm looking to buy an old used truck, now I'm thinking an earlier model than the 4+4 transmissions though they have a real good look to them. I see most have been rebuilt one or two times. Typically how many miles does a rebuilt road truck (say 1980's) go before it needs an engine overhaul, or a transmission overhaul?
And another question: If I have a tractor that is a class 7, with a GVWR of 26,000 - 33,000 lbs, and actually weighs 10,000 lbs, and I pull a trailer that is GVWR of 15,000 lbs would I still need a CDL? I've seen semi trucks with tandem axles that were rated as a Class 6, 7 or 8, what on the truck determines the classification rating?"
Depending on who beat it to death, they last a long time. My truck is all original, never touched and it's a 1959. Figure 500K to 700K before they start to need attention(this all depends on maintenance that has been done).
You can plate the truck for what ever weight you want. Ohio has a 22K plate that would really restrict you and eliminate the need for CDL. If you hang a trailer on the back and you go over 22K you're overweight and will get caught sooner or later. My rig is registered for 33K, and I'm just around 27K with trailer. I was questioned once at scales about this and even though it has historical plates, the weight still comes into play. The heavier the plate, the MORE the cost, as when I had truck plates it cost $340/yr. for 33K lbs.
There is alot of grey area in this as with the change of use that big trucks are getting, the laws have not adjusted to them and even though you can be "legal" per say, someone can "read" the rules a bit different and try to get you in trouble.
I got my CDL to CYA even though in Ohio you don't need it for historical plated vehicles. Since I travel to other states, I don't want issues that will make your day very longggg.
Who wooda thunk something like that would turn to be such a cult favorite? LOL!
Just some more information for seabiscuit:
"Another question: I'm looking to buy an old used truck, now I'm thinking an earlier model than the 4+4 transmissions though they have a real good look to them. I see most have been rebuilt one or two times. Typically how many miles does a rebuilt road truck (say 1980's) go before it needs an engine overhaul, or a transmission overhaul?
And another question: If I have a tractor that is a class 7, with a GVWR of 26,000 - 33,000 lbs, and actually weighs 10,000 lbs, and I pull a trailer that is GVWR of 15,000 lbs would I still need a CDL? I've seen semi trucks with tandem axles that were rated as a Class 6, 7 or 8, what on the truck determines the classification rating?"
Depending on who beat it to death, they last a long time. My truck is all original, never touched and it's a 1959. Figure 500K to 700K before they start to need attention(this all depends on maintenance that has been done).
You can plate the truck for what ever weight you want. Ohio has a 22K plate that would really restrict you and eliminate the need for CDL. If you hang a trailer on the back and you go over 22K you're overweight and will get caught sooner or later. My rig is registered for 33K, and I'm just around 27K with trailer. I was questioned once at scales about this and even though it has historical plates, the weight still comes into play. The heavier the plate, the MORE the cost, as when I had truck plates it cost $340/yr. for 33K lbs.
There is alot of grey area in this as with the change of use that big trucks are getting, the laws have not adjusted to them and even though you can be "legal" per say, someone can "read" the rules a bit different and try to get you in trouble.
I got my CDL to CYA even though in Ohio you don't need it for historical plated vehicles. Since I travel to other states, I don't want issues that will make your day very longggg.
GaryKelley
Well-Known Member
another option is
the price of medium duty diesel PU's is coming down fast. due to the price of fuel, as well as a slackend RV market. You should be able to buy an F350 or their counterparts (GMC or DODGE) reasonably low, and stay under 12,000GVWR, that way, with your 14K trailer, you stay under the 26K category, and are not regulated by DOT, you dont haver to cross the scales (at least not this year), and your ins wont go up. Just make sure it has a regular Pick-Up bed, and NOT a flatbed or other type of aftermarket utility bed.
I'm telling you, the rules and regulations are changing so fast, and open to interpretation by the officer that stops you, if he wants to, he'll find some kind of rule violation.
the price of medium duty diesel PU's is coming down fast. due to the price of fuel, as well as a slackend RV market. You should be able to buy an F350 or their counterparts (GMC or DODGE) reasonably low, and stay under 12,000GVWR, that way, with your 14K trailer, you stay under the 26K category, and are not regulated by DOT, you dont haver to cross the scales (at least not this year), and your ins wont go up. Just make sure it has a regular Pick-Up bed, and NOT a flatbed or other type of aftermarket utility bed.
I'm telling you, the rules and regulations are changing so fast, and open to interpretation by the officer that stops you, if he wants to, he'll find some kind of rule violation.