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Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

Danny B

Active Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
42
Location
Checotah, OK
Can anyone tell me or provide photo of what should be included at the bottom ball or swivel connection of the blade on my D21? There is a lot of play here. I can not get the grease zerk to take grease either. Removed the zerk and it is ok. What is the zerk supposed to lub?

Country Boy from Wagoner - Is you dozer a shuttle shift? I have suttle shift and my lever is getting stiff. I can get into all gears but it used to be real easy to move. I'm wondering if I have same problem?
Thanks.
 

shouldabeen

Active Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
34
Location
clarksville, ar
Occupation
Specialty Services,LLC
Can anyone tell me or provide photo of what should be included at the bottom ball or swivel connection of the blade on my D21? There is a lot of play here. I can not get the grease zerk to take grease either. Removed the zerk and it is ok. What is the zerk supposed to lub?

A trunnion Ball ?
you will have to remove the cap bolts and cap and get the torch and lube out and everything else that will help remove the old grease its a time consuming job but you will find the grease should exit into the front and rear of the ball lubing it so the metal to metal is not as intrusive.
 

country boy

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2011
Messages
11
Location
Wagoner, Ok
Danny B
pull the floor plate and disconect the shifter cable then try and move the cable if its still hard you will need a new cable. kirby smith in tulsa can get it for you. take your old cable in and match it up there are 2 different lengths at least there was for mine. my cable cost $185.00 shure is nice to operate with new cable on it..
good luck,CB
 

country boy

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2011
Messages
11
Location
Wagoner, Ok
Gino , i would make shure your shifter cables are adjusted properly,may not be going all the way in high gear or maybe check fluid levels, those are the easy ideas. remove floor plate so you can see what your shifter is doing .

good luck,CB
 

TomCs

New Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2011
Messages
1
Location
California
Hi folks,

I just bought an older (70's) D20P and am looking for a service/shop manual. Anyone have one for sale or know where I may find one?

Thank you
TomCs
 

machineman

Active Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2007
Messages
42
Location
Northern CA
D20p-7 steering issue

I've posted about this issue before but now the problem has gotten lots worse. Now it barely steers when pulling either lever. The machine stops when I pull the lever and sometimes makes a moaning noise underneath. Also the brake pedal isn't doing much. It used to only happen after it warmed up. I pulled the left and right steering case plugs under the machine and each side drained over a couple quarts each. These plugs have not been checked in years. Suppossed to be dry? Also I've tried adjusting the bands from under those covers at the back of the machine. Tried 1, 2, 4, and 5 turns out. Neither of those postions improved the issue, just made the brake and levers max stroke change.

Any suggestions? Machine has about 2900hrs on it.

Thanks..
 

HDPSCORP

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
18
Location
Cleveland/TN
1991 Komatsu D20P-6

Hello folks,

I was having a problem with the oil pressure light coming on my Dozer, I installed a new oil pressure sender (Komatsu part) and the light still coming on, I like to test the engine pressure so I went to my local auto parts store and the guy said that first I had to find out how much pressure this engine should read, does anyone know what the normal pressure should be? or the best method to measure it? I imagine that I need a pressure gage and connector with the metric hook up and hook it where the pressure sender is now?

Right now, when I turn the engine on the low pressure light will be on and off and will turn off if I depress the clutch every time, but will comes on/off again if I move the dozer around

The engine only smokes at start, after a few minutes no smoke at all...unless when I accelerate hard and I see some black smoke puffs initially and clears.

I have change the engine oil couple times, seems like right after the change the light stays off but after a few hours it starts coming on again and the new oil is very dark already.

I would greatly appreciate if someone could give me some pointers on this.

Ed
 

darinray

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Messages
435
Location
Delevan, NY
Occupation
Owner-Equipment & Parts Sales
Contact me Ed by clicking my link so we can talk about this. I just would like to know more info and it's faster by phone.
 
Last edited:

machineman

Active Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2007
Messages
42
Location
Northern CA
I've posted about this issue before but now the problem has gotten lots worse. Now it barely steers when pulling either lever. The machine stops when I pull the lever and sometimes makes a moaning noise underneath. Also the brake pedal isn't doing much. It used to only happen after it warmed up. I pulled the left and right steering case plugs under the machine and each side drained over a couple quarts each. These plugs have not been checked in years. Suppossed to be dry? Also I've tried adjusting the bands from under those covers at the back of the machine. Tried 1, 2, 4, and 5 turns out. Neither of those postions improved the issue, just made the brake and levers max stroke change.

Any suggestions? Machine has about 2900hrs on it.

Thanks..

OK, so I'm thinking that the brake bands are still good becuase I get lots of pedal back when I adjust them. So likely problem is either worn out steering clutches or the cluthes are totally oil soaked and just slip. Is there any chance in cleaning and recovering oil soaked friction plates? Anyone know what the wear limits (thickness) are for the friction and drive plates. Looks like I will need to open it up and inspect them. Hopefully I can take them out without a complete disassemble of the back drivetrain.
 

darinray

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Messages
435
Location
Delevan, NY
Occupation
Owner-Equipment & Parts Sales
Sounds like you are making progress. When they get oil soaked you are better off replacing them because you already are in there and DON'T want to do it again I'm sure. :) Contact me so I can set you up with parts and manuals. :)
 

JimInOz

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Messages
511
Location
Victoria, Australia
Machineman,
I'm sure Darin has suggested that you need to find the source of the oil leaks.I assume your Bevel seals need renewing...along with bevel oil.

Jim
 

machineman

Active Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2007
Messages
42
Location
Northern CA
Machineman,
I'm sure Darin has suggested that you need to find the source of the oil leaks.I assume your Bevel seals need renewing...along with bevel oil.

Jim

Yep, Over the past couple years I've added more than a couple quarts to the bevel case fill tube. Final drives are still full on both sides. Is it posible to pull the clutches and seals without a complete teardown? If the weather is decent I might open it up next weekend.
 

jeepinmatt

New Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2011
Messages
3
Location
Stanley, NC
Having a problem with my D21-A5. I used it to do some gravel-moving on my neighbors driveway, which is a steep hill (50-80% grade). No noticeable problems. Parked the dozer. I cranked it up a couple days later, and there was a strange whining noise. I put it in 1st to go forward, and nothing happened. Sometimes it does this when its cold, but after waiting 30 seconds or so, I became concerned. It finally moved, but very hesitantly and intermittently. I got it to a good spot and checked all the fluid levels. Blade hydraulics were a little low but, everything else was fine. I spent some more time playing around with it and here's a synopsis of the symptoms:
1. Whining noise when in neutral, but goes away when in gear
2. Moves fairly well at low rpms, can even push a pile of dirt
3. Steers properly
4. Inching pedal and brake work properly
5. Works better in 2nd gear than 1st, regardless of direction
6. If moving at low rpms, and then transitioning to higher rpms, it loses drive at somepoint around 1/2-full throttle
7. The whining noise returns as rpms climb

Anybody got any ideas? I pull the directional and inching valve off the top of the transmission and inspected it, everything looks great. Not sure where to go next.

Thanks in advance.
 

David G

New Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2011
Messages
1
Location
UK
Hi there I am new to this forum and was wondering if some one could help me out with the type of oil/ fluid that my hitachi DX40 dozer will take in the front oil resevoir located under the floor panel. I have a light on the control panel which shows a sprocket and a oil drop and I now have no drive in any direction. Thanks in advance
Dave
 

Tommy

Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2010
Messages
21
Location
Texas
Occupation
Business Owner
No Steering on my D37P-5A

The steering on my D37P has always been a little weak. Now, the left steering is completely gone. Recently, the the left chain went slack (track adjuster seal went out) when I was in a ditch and leaned on the stick for left steering really hard and pumped the brake to try to get the machine to turn left. It wouldn't turn out of the ditch and now I don't have any left steering. I fixed the track adjuster so the chain stays tight and I can see the linkage under the seat moving when i push the stick to the left, and the motor lugs down, but no left turn. Right steering works ok, but sometimes I have to pump the brake a little to get the right steering to activate. I've messed with the brake band adjustments a little but no joy. What's wrong with it? Thanks, Tommy
 
Last edited:

machineman

Active Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2007
Messages
42
Location
Northern CA
OK, so I'm thinking that the brake bands are still good becuase I get lots of pedal back when I adjust them. So likely problem is either worn out steering clutches or the cluthes are totally oil soaked and just slip. Is there any chance in cleaning and recovering oil soaked friction plates? Anyone know what the wear limits (thickness) are for the friction and drive plates. Looks like I will need to open it up and inspect them. Hopefully I can take them out without a complete disassemble of the back drivetrain.

So I started taking it apart and was wondering what I'm in for with these hydraulic lines? Is this some kind of Hydraulic assist and does it just pull out?

DSCF0191 (Small).JPG
 
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