Long 510 3cyl diesel wont start after changine injector

[Morepower]

I finally had time to work on the tractor. I feel that I may have found the issue right off the bat. The cap nut holding the ASRD on was finger tight. When I pulled the assembly off of the pump (without removing the pump from the side of the engine) the gasket on the stud hole side was saturated with fuel. I replaced the gasket along with the o-rings on that area and put it back on.
Putting the assembly back on was an exercise of feel because it is located on the back bottom side of the pump. I aligned the small rod hanging down from the pump with the stud and raised the ASRD assembly up into place. This is my fear now. It went on too easy So before I try to start or turn over the engine here is my question.
Can the ASRD bolt back in place if the small rod that hangs down from the pump is not in its proper location inside the assembly? Thanks so much.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Sorry for the late response.. it will NOT go back up if its out of line..
Glad you found the problem..
The cam ball sits in a hole in the piston..

 

[Morepower]

I was so hopping that is what you would say. Great!! Now I'll giver her some fuel, bleed the system and see if she will start.

Thanks again for all the help you guys have been.:usa

 

[Huntmastr1]

Schematic

On the advance, the Long uses a manual start retard device inplace of the head locating screw.. it "reroutes" the transfer pump pressure to retard the timing for easy start up..
MP.. I don't think THAT SEAL comes in the kit any longer.. I have stacks of them if you need one.. or 12.. lol

Pumpguy,

Do you have a schematic on the seals on the retard device itself. I resealed my pump and it is running great but has a very small at the the retard lever.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff

 

[thepumpguysc]

Sorry HUNT>> No breakdown.. There is only 1 seal inside and 2 orings outside.. and the inside 1 doesn't come in the kit anymore..

 

[greenhorn the]

Pumpguy, please help

I have a CAV injector pump on a Romanian built AC 5040 3 cylinder , same tractor made for Long . It leaks fuel from the throttle and shut off valve shafts (I see plenty of help for that on you tube ).
But the leak from the manual start retard device is more severe. It continues to drip slowly when engine is off. I bought a hat shaped seal (AC part no. 2080530) that looks like it would go over
the plunger in the manual retard device. Can i replace just the seal while pump is on the tractor? I,m planning to unscrew the manual retard device without removing the hydraulic head locating fitting.
I'm hoping I can get the old seal out and new one back in without messing up all the little springs and ball valve in there. I do not see any o rings in the diagrams. Are they on the hydraulic head locating fitting?
Will I need more than the one hat shaped ring seal that i already purchased for way to much $ ? Please let me know if I am on the right track.

Thank you.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The hat seal comes in 2 sizes.. I would have sent them to you for free..
There are 2 orings on the head locating screw[SRC],, just unscrew the HLS and remove the guts.. the center nut on the manual SR screw is TIGHT.. so its best to remove the entire thing and lock it in a vise.. USE AN AIR GUN to remove the center screw..
anything else will round off the screw..
ALL this can be done with out removing the pump..

 

[greenhorn the]

Wow ! Thanks for responding so quickly. I should have checked back sooner. Of course I now have more questions. I tightened the SR screw a little to see if I could stop the leak before my original post.
It moved a little so I think it might come out. If the SR screw moves easily can it be done by just removing it. Or should I order new o-rings and take out the head locating screw. If I need to take out the HLS
do I just tighten it back in or does it need to line up in a specific way. My hat seal cost $12. plus excessive postage. Since there are two sizes how do I know they sent the right size.

Thanks again for your help.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Your making mountains outta mole hills.. Lol
Just shut off the fuel.. remove the screw from the pump and THEN unscrew the guts..
No way to tell if you got the right seal until you compare them..
The screw is already centered in the head and the head is held in place with the 2 screws on each side of the pump housing.. your not going to mess anything up or move anything by removing the bottom screw..
Just hold your hand under the screw when you remove it.. there may be a small steel ball and/or a steel washer..

 

[greenhorn the]

Sounds great.
Thank you very much.