D6 R advice

[Nige]

IMHO your oil grade is far too heavy for your climate. Mobiltech's in your neck of the woods so I would go with his recommendations.
As TC says don't forget to change the oil code plug for the new oil viscosity. It's right above the engine ECM on the LH side.

 

[watglen]

Forgive my stupidity, but what is this oil spec key plug you speak of? And whats it for?

 

[Cmark]

Forgive my stupidity, but what is this oil spec key plug you speak of? And whats it for?

It's basically an electrical plug in the engine wiring harness. Depending on which way it's plugged in tells the ECM what grade of oil you're using.

 

[Nige]

As CM says it's a 3-pin electrical plug (one of which will be plugged into the engine harness, the other will be hanging with a blank plug in it) that tells the engine "brain" what grade of oil you're using. Quote from the manual - "Oil Grade Plugs are used on the C-9 engine in this machine to enhance start-up in cold weather conditions. When changing oil grades, the operator must ensure that the corresponding plug is inserted into the wiring harness. The oil grade plugs can be recognized by either the identification tags or by the color of the wires. The location of the oil grade plug is directly above the engine control module (ECM) on the left side of the engine."

There are 2 types of plug. One has 2 connections, the other 3. If yours has the 2 connectors it will likely not have a 0W-20 plug in it which is the one you really need if you decide to follow Mobiltech's advice and use 0W-40 oil. The 3-plug connection on the RH side of the photo is available as a spare part - Part Number 214-7170. The colours are - #3 (10W/30) green; #4 (15W/40) red; #5 (0W20) black.

 

[watglen]

Ok, I'll check it out.

But I still haven't suspended my skepticism. The last time this happened I spent an afternoon looking for a bucket of steam.

 

[watglen]

This is an old thread, but Cat is working on the problem now.
D6R III wrg00413
8500 hrs

Again, the problem is the c9 acert doesn't like to run when cold. That is to say, it cranks and fires no problem, but after about 15 secs something kicks out, revs drop off, itll slowly idle around 200 rpm for a another say 15 secs, and slowly flutter out. Crank it again and it fires right up, then does the same thing all over again. Depending on the temp(today its about freezing) it can take many start cycles to finally get going and keep running (today it took 3)

This tractor has been like this for as long as I have owned it (2000 hrs)

Injector cutout test shows all is good.

Tech with gauges and laptop plugged in confirm fuel and injector activation pressures are bang on. The fuel boost pump at the filters is new so that isn't an issue. Filters new.

He noticed the fuel pressure sensor was reading 259psi when the engine was off. Not terrible, but changed it anyway. Also, for lack of another idea, he changed the fuel rail pressure regulator. Again, cheap enough no sense wondering if its good.

After this the problem persisted, so he has run back to the shop as I type this to grab a engine speed sensor(camshaft sensor)

He says the engine is calling for 800 rpm and getting about 500. No codes. past experience says the speed sensor can cause odd behavior. Grasping at straws here.

The only other thing I can add is the smoke during warmup is on the black side. not a lot, but not white.

 

[watglen]

Update. He replaced the cam speed sensors. At -2C (just below freezing) it cranked and quit once, then cranked and came up to 800 rpm like it should. That is better than I would have done in the past, but not exactly fixed.

Starting to see the invoices for all this work, its pretty pricey for this aimless work, for very little gain. In the end, those parts won't be an issue any time soon so that is a win.

The way I look at it, it is never a bad thing to be replacing worn parts on a machine.

 

[watglen]

Update
Still having hard to start issues. Not bad above freezing but below freezing, its a pita. Cranking drains bats, so you need to plug in the block heater and have a bat charger or two available to keep the bats up during all the charging. Its wacked!

Anyway, little trick I figured. If you're lucky, depressing the high idle switch and holding it while cranking seems to allow the engine to come to life and slowly find its way to 800 rpm with quitting. Hold the switch for a couple minutes and it keep running. I figure it overrides something in the computer and the engine keeps running.

I would love to hear ideas if anyone has any. I insist its the computer, or electrical. Problem is too repeatable to be otherwise.

 

[Welder Dave]

I think you mean without quitting. My dump truck with an M11 will start right up but die after 30 seconds if you leave it at idle. I think it loses prime but if you rev it to 1000 RPM after it starts it will bobble a little at 30 seconds but keep running and clear up.

 

[rmllarue91]

Hey watglen what weight engine oil are you currently running? And does machine have any cold weather packages installed intake heater ? Either larger battery capacity usually from 2 to 4 batteries. What your describing sounds like soft ware or intake temp sensor issues

 

[watglen]

OK, let see. The Oil is 15-40. It has a grid heater that the computer runs. It has auto injector on the ether bottle. has 2 big bats which are the standard bat for that unit.
Technician checked into it and this rig does not have the oil viscosity plug mentioned earlier in the the thread.
One other thing I should add. Its the weirdest thing
One time I started cranking and it fired, ran up to 500 rpm or so, then SLOWLY worked its way to 700. The instant it rolled over 700rpm it died, rpm fell quickly, and as soon as it got to 150 on the dash, it caught itself, and began to slowly climb back up again. The instant it got to 700 it died again. This sequence continued for 7 more cycles. Finally it decided to run past 700, climbed to 800 and was what I call running. It did this all on its own, i just sat there and watched. It has done this on other mornings too. But most times it just dies and i have to recrank.

 

[rmllarue91]

I would try new position sensor recalibrate timing and possible ecm reflash that is an odd issue your having.