If you need the list of things to check, you might be the wrong person looking at the beast? but I start at the back of the tractor and walk slowly around looking for dents, kinks, and knackered easy to spot things, then I look again for things that have been modified or not correct, then its into the pilots cabin and check what does and what fails to work in the switch gear etc, then a peep into recorded faults helps some, then its time to open up all the panels to see if it has an engine also the 2 things in the battery box has to be checked with a multi-meter, then its time to check dip sticks and water levels, with things found good its engine start up point, if all things sound correct here then its check pins and ram mounts in nose group,blade also edge hardware+tilt, then its onto the track frames including e/bar, this is all done with the motor spinning so you can press,lift and poke about, then I look at the F/Drives by at least undoing the oil level plugs and checking its contents, sparkles in this spot is not good?? also check for oil stains/weeping from the sun gear pins on the outer case, if things are looking good at this point its now time to check the undercart including segments for welding as an extra to bolts, with all the rollers and links checked and counted incase a link or roller is missing, I shut the engine off and stick a pressure gauge onto the test port on the back case, re-check the water in the rad, then crack up the motor and give it a bit of a birthday on a performance test through 4 stall /cool cycles in all forward gears and 2nd reverse, noting the engine speed drop from high idle to full load, in 1st gear you have to be carefull as the beast should drive through the brakes, then I do a rolling test by driving it forward and dropping it into N to see if it runs on smoothly, the diff steer and brakes are best tested on muck, if the tractor is on a site you can push muck about I drive it like its stolen for about 1/2 hour, finaly before I shut the motor down I walk around and look for things dropping off and oil leaks, after the engine shut down I listen to the beast with the engine panels open, "gurgling" and little "parps" are not good?? the engine should start without any puffing of white stuff, if it passes all these things and the customer buys the tractor, I have done my "Job"
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