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Champion 730A articulation wiring

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Welder Dave

Senior Member
I have a 1986 730A with the articulation disconnected. There are 2 wires with spade connectors I'm pretty sure are for the solenoid valve. I found a wire connection on the solenoid on the valve but don't know where the other wire connects. Was hoping someone might know where the other wire connects?
 
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Welder Dave

Senior Member
Thank you Blue-Fox! By the 2 wires it looks like they both connect near to each other but I only found 1 solenoid connection, of course full of dirt. It would be nice to know where the tach wires connect as well but that's not a big deal. It would be nice to see what's wrong with the articulation and/or why the wires were disconnected. Maybe it doesn't need an expensive fix?? I was wondering if the articulation device on the front frame could be bad. I think it works with the articulation gauge in the cab. In the parts it's just listed as articulation. Or maybe the solenoid is bad??
 
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ChampionVolvoGraderGuy

Member
Sometimes there are more wires run than needed, I would try the connectors one at a time on the solenoid and see if you can get it to function. Might have had an option for another solenoid valve section where the other wire would go...

Tach wire goes to the alternator I believe...
 
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Welder Dave

Senior Member
I don't see an extra wire that goes to the alternator and looking at pics. of similar machines there's just the 1 main wire I assume is for charging. I had a partial wiring diagram but it didn't show any wires for the tach or the articulation. Even looking at parts and service manuals I could find online couldn't find these wires. I'm not too concerned with the tach but if it's simple to fix I will.

It seems to me that you couldn't have 2 way articulation with only 1 wire but I don't know? That's why a wiring diagram or picture or someone who knows where the wires go would be very helpful. The 2 wires in the loom are the right length to get to the solenoid valve for articulation. It seems odd there would be an extra wire. Both wires have female spade connectors and are the same length however both have been spliced on to the original wires. The original wires have bad corrosion at the splices so I would replace them further back where the wires are in good shape but first I want to see if they make the articulation work. Because both were spliced it seems logical that both are used. It doesn't look like the cylinders leaked but I have no idea how long the articulation has been disconnected. If you could please find out how the articulation wires hook up would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Welder Dave

Senior Member
Thank you, that's a much better pic. than I found in a parts manual. I think it's for a newer machine than mine but very similar. My serial number is 16890. It's an odd machine in that it doesn't have a lock/unlock differential, it's locked all the time. There are no switches on the right door post. Interesting that it's listed under circuit- all wheel drive. The manual did show 2 solenoids as well but when I was looking at the machine I could only find 1 solenoid. I'll try to take a better look on the weekend. Maybe a solenoid was removed?? I wish the battery box wasn't in the way. Do you have an idea what a solenoid is worth if 1 is missing?
 
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ChampionVolvoGraderGuy

Member
Hey Dave, I sent you a message with some pricing on what we have available.

It's possible that someone has removed the solenoid from one side of that valve.

Let me know if you have any questions or need some more info.
 
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Welder Dave

Senior Member
Thank you so much! I got your PM. I didn't get a chance to look at the machine again. If it only has 1 solenoid could I connect 1 of the wires to it and try the switch in the cab or do both wires need to be connected? If I could buy a solenoid and fix it great but I don't want to buy a solenoid and then have to keep buying more parts(chasing parts) to get the articulation working.

Thinking back to when I briefly looked at it I did notice the collar on the spool behind the solenoid slid back and forth. Maybe it slides because the other solenoid was missing but it would be tight with both solenoids?
 
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ChampionVolvoGraderGuy

Member
Check for power at the wires when you operate the switches.

You could connect one of the wires to the solenoid that's there, see what happens when you use the switch. If it works, it will only go the one way because you only have one solenoid, test both wires to ensure they each work... To get it going the other way you can move the solenoid from one side to the other, then test again, should bring you back the other way... as long as it's all working correctly.

If the solenoid slides back and forth, it's probably not tight enough... there should only be one solenoid per valve assy.

Pretty sure the articulation gauge is operated by a cable that runs from the articulation pivot to the gauge in the cab... I'll confirm this and let you know.
 
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Welder Dave

Senior Member
That diagram is for newer machines. It looks like the gauge I have under the steering wheel was only used for a couple years then they changed to a different system. The gauge on the steering column is part #46803 and the articulation part on the frame is part #17868. There is a service package for the gauge part #28698. I think I read where this system wasn't the most reliable.

Would you have diagram showing the wiring for the tach., 730A 16890?
 
Blue-Fox

Blue-Fox

Well-Known Member
Welder Dave said:
Thank you Blue-Fox! By the 2 wires it looks like they both connect near to each other but I only found 1 solenoid connection, of course full of dirt. It would be nice to know where the tach wires connect as well but that's not a big deal. It would be nice to see what's wrong with the articulation and/or why the wires were disconnected. Maybe it doesn't need an expensive fix?? I was wondering if the articulation device on the front frame could be bad. I think it works with the articulation gauge in the cab. In the parts it's just listed as articulation. Or maybe the solenoid is bad??
Click to expand...
I do not have that older wiring schematic. Sorry
 
Blue-Fox

Blue-Fox

Well-Known Member
Welder Dave said:
Thank you Blue-Fox! By the 2 wires it looks like they both connect near to each other but I only found 1 solenoid connection, of course full of dirt. It would be nice to know where the tach wires connect as well but that's not a big deal. It would be nice to see what's wrong with the articulation and/or why the wires were disconnected. Maybe it doesn't need an expensive fix?? I was wondering if the articulation device on the front frame could be bad. I think it works with the articulation gauge in the cab. In the parts it's just listed as articulation. Or maybe the solenoid is bad??
Click to expand...
I’m currently having problems with my 720A series 3 #22244. The articulation system will drift full right and nothing you can do to get it back except monkey around with the switch and side shift etc until you can get a pin in there to block it out. I started with wiring and switch, found a relay. Everything pin checked so I pulled the solenoids off the posts on the block and swapped out a few of them with new units (even though they seemed to click and function) got a little better action but still unable to run without pins. Took the valve block apart and found broken pintle valve in right side causing it to not control anything on the right, and the normally open unloader valve was also broke. So it wasn’t forcing the turn action. I mistakenly got a NC pintle cartridge and then immediately lost all left side moldboard hydraulics so went back to the broken part and put machine back to work until the spring came and the correct #12 NC cartridge came in. These are the cartridges that screw in to the body with the solenoid sets on the post. They get stuck and they get broken internally and then things go wonky. I got busy doing some other machine repairs and gutted out my whole shop to spray foam in the ceiling somehow misplaced the parts or else it would be fixed now. (Still hunting)
 
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Welder Dave

Senior Member
It sucks when you get delayed on a fix and then can't find the parts you need. BTDT.
I've read of some issues with the articulation. That's why I want to try and see what's wrong instead of just throwing money and parts at it. I got some prices from Championguy for a new solenoid and a used valve that would be reasonable to fix it but I don't know exactly what's wrong. If it needed a new valve, both solenoids and cylinders leaked etc. would cost more than I could afford right now. I think it's easy enough to see if the toggle switch sends power to the wires and hooking a wire on the solenoid to see if it tries to move as the 1st steps. Then I could take the lock pins out and see if drifts or does anything weird.
 
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Blue-Fox

Blue-Fox

Well-Known Member
Yes, you’re on the right track. One thing I’ve seen is that if you can take your pins out and still operate the machine (just won’t respond to articulation commend) then you likely don’t have a hydraulic problem. If you did it would jog one way and be stuck. But an electrical problem will not cause any problem until you try to move it. I tested each of the solenoids with a remote starter switch you can jump to each solenoid from your battery and test that they function electrically. They will make a very solid clunk when you put voltage to them. Some are 12v some are 24v, so make sure you have the correct hookups.
On top of each solenoid is a knob that sometimes has flat spots or a hex, some just a screwdriver slot. You can easily unscrew those retainers and remove the solenoid from the stem. The stem contains the spindle or pintle valve cartridge (depends who you ask what name they use) these “cartridges” are available from any hydraulic shop and they are $50-$80 usd. My local hydraulic guy got me fluid master parts and they were identical to the OE pieces I had in Volvo bags.

Very uncommon for the valve body itself to have any issues. Other than pieces of trash getting in a passage. Next problem could be an internally collapsed hose, a bad internal cylinder piston seal or something that caused prior problems and got lock pins put in.
 
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Welder Dave

Senior Member
I was looking at some parts and service manuals (on the Sierra Park 730A web page) and your machine looks like it uses a different articulation valve with different solenoids that appear to face upwards. Mine has the solenoids horizontal on each end of the spool but might be missing one. That's good to know about taking the pins out. I was thinking of taking them out and seeing if the machine stays straight.
 
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