Cat D6C Blade attachment

[skyking1]

yup it's an old 6 and not a production or finish machine.
I get your perspective, don't let perfect be the enemy of good.

 

[56wrench]

Make yourself a template of the rear lower least worn side of the ball to aid in the buildup and final grinding-to-shape after the build-up. Also, during final assembly add some grease between the trunnion ball and the c-frame to help the initial wear-in. If done accurately it should last at least 1000hrs in your application

 

[Mcrafty1]

I get your perspective, don't let perfect be the enemy of good.[/QUOTE]
That's pretty much what I was thinking.

 

[Mcrafty1]

Make yourself a template of the rear lower least worn side of the ball to aid in the buildup and final grinding-to-shape after the build-up. Also, during final assembly add some grease between the trunnion ball and the c-frame to help the initial wear-in. If done accurately it should last at least 1000hrs in your application

A 1000 hours would be more than I'll ever see turn up on the clock, I like the grease idea too.

 

[Mcrafty1]

I did get a few pictures, I need to go back to an old post I made and get the process to post pics that was given to me then. I'm old and not very techy so it may be a while before they show up.

 

[Mcrafty1]

Gonna try to upload a few pics.....

 

[Nige]

Take a close look at the half of the "yoke" that is welded to the push arm assembly - left side of your 2nd photo. Can you find a casting number on it, or anything on the cap side for that matter.?

 

[Mcrafty1]

A couple more...
The one of the complete machine is just eye candy, doesn't show anything about the problem with the blade

 

[Mcrafty1]

Take a close look at the half of the "yoke" that is welded to the push arm assembly - left side of your 2nd photo. Can you find a casting number on it, or anything on the cap side for that matter.?

I'm pretty thickheaded Nige, I guess I don't know what you are calling the yoke..are taking about something on the back side of the blade? or the trunnion ball area?

 

[Mcrafty1]

I think you are calling the yoke the clamp that wraps around the trunnion ball correct?

 

[Bluox]

I think you are calling the yoke the clamp that wraps around the trunnion ball correct?

The piece that goes around the trunnion ball is called a bearing and cap; the bearing being welded on the push arm.
You can take the trunnions off and take them inside to weld on them.
Need pictures of diagonal arms .
Bad Bob

 

[Mcrafty1]

Ok, I'll go back to the machine and take better pics of the are behind the blade itself, how the blade is attached to the push arms. Thanks.

 

[Mcrafty1]

Pics

 

[Mcrafty1]

Two more...the picture of the cap on the trunnion has a number but there's too much paint on it to be legible.

 

[Nige]

You're looking at #2 and #4. Bearing #4 welds on to the push arm.
Cap #2 is Part Number 6F2905 from your photo. Unfortunately there is more than one Part Number of bearing that is uused with the 6F2905 Cap depending on application. If you can find a P/N on #4 on you machine then the option would be available order new bearings and replace the existing ones.

 

[Mcrafty1]

Thanks Nige, it's getting to dark here now and I've got a dinner date but asap I'll try to get that number.

 

[Nige]

There may not be one, or it could have worn off. All I can do is guide you as to where you might find it. Could even be on the inside surface for all I know.

 

[John C.]

You don't have to do anything at the trunnion ends of the push beams. Side to side play is at the blade attachment points. The sway is in the K braces and the beam to blade attachment points. Clean the snow off the top of the K brace and you will see where plates are installed to take up the slop in the ball and socket joints.

 

[Welder Dave]

If you are going to use weld build up it is worth spending more to get the build up rod that doesn't mushroom. It will last a lot longer and is made for building up parts back to size. Below is the best description I could find for it.

ESAB STOODY BUILD-UP LH-COATED | thr11414100 | ohcanadasupply.ca

Microsoft Word - Cse001.doc (gasandsupply.com)

 

[Mcrafty1]

You don't have to do anything at the trunnion ends of the push beams. Side to side play is at the blade attachment points. The sway is in the K braces and the beam to blade attachment points. Clean the snow off the top of the K brace and you will see where plates are installed to take up the slop in the ball and socket joints.

I see the plates can be removed and spacers added to take up space without a lot of effort, that's the next place I was going to focus on after I get the trunnion area tightened a bit.I believe I could even make what ever spacer plates I will need. Thanks