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Case 580 CK rear differential way overfull why?

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
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147
Location
Utah
Well I started working on the hoe again. I made a cylinder sleeve puller Started pulling the cylinders out. Someone before me had put the wrong size liners in cyl 1 and 4! There is two different cyl liner diameters 4.457 and 4.537 my block takes the larger.
Not exactly sure what issues that would cause.

Question for you guys. I see two o-rings on the lower section of the liner
But nothing at the top. What seals the top of the liner to the block?
 

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Juskatla

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Dec 12, 2009
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Black Creek B.C.
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Others may explain it better, but the lip on the top of the sleeve sits in the recess machined into the block. The head gasket seals the top of the sleeve. The manual should show how it goes together.
 

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Ok that makes sense. I have ordered a manual just waiting for it to arrive.
 

dad2six

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Utah
I took the head to the machine shop the other day. They called and said it has a bent valve, broken valve spring, worn guides, and needs surfacing. I noticed the broken spring when I pulled it apart. And it was on cyl 1. That's also the cylinder that had the pushrod come off the rocker arm when I first got it.
One more thing with that cylinder I noticed that the pushrods for cyl 1 are slightly different than the others. They are longer by 1/8" or so and have a machined ball on the end rather than a die formed (not sure if that's the correct term) end like the others. Anyone know what it should have in there?
 

dad2six

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Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Hey guys

I spent hours cleaning the block in preparation for reassembly today.
The crank was in very good shape and still the std size.

I got all the main bearings changed out and installed the new cylinder liners.

Question for you all. Reading the manual it talks about fire rings and a separate head gasket.

My rebuild kit did not come with fire rings but I'm assuming they have incorporated them into the head gasket. There is a metal ring in the gasket around each cylinder. Is this the case?
 

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Last edited:

Juskatla

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D26, You will be fine with the one piece head gasket. I'm not even sure if the other style with the separate fire rings is available anymore. The two types were in production years ago but I have never seen any gasket kits with the separate fire ring.
 

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
D26, You will be fine with the one piece head gasket. I'm not even sure if the other style with the separate fire rings is available anymore. The two types were in production years ago but I have never seen any gasket kits with the separate fire ring.

Ok good thanks Juskatla. Your always very helpful I appreciate it.
 

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
This being my first diesel I did not even think to put any treatment in the tank over the winter. It has been parked In My garage through the winter. Should I be concerned with the fuel gelling?
 

alrman

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Jun 20, 2009
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3,308
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QLD Australia
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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
@dad2six It is very important to check liner protrusion above the block, hope you did this? Other wise you may have head gasket issues before too long....
 

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
IMG_6941.JPG IMG_6942.JPG I got new injectors but they did not come with the brass nut on top.
This may be a dump question but how do I get the brass not off the old injectors and onto the new ones? Do I have to take apart the injectors?
 

Juskatla

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Check to see the rubber O ring under the nut. If you can pull it out of the nut, you can pull the rubber ring off and pull off the nut to reuse. If you have an overhaul gasket set, there should be new O rings for this purpose supplied. These are lower pressure for the return manifold to the fuel tank. If you don't have any O ring rubbers, you should be able to get them from an injection shop or your selected parts supplier.

If you need pictures, let me know and I'll see what I have from when I did mine last spring.
 

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
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147
Location
Utah
Perfect just the info I needed. Thanks! I do have a full gasket kit I will look for those o rings
 

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Is there a trick or any tips you can give me to installing the cylinder head with the timing cover still on?
I tried to do it but the gasket between the head and the cover keeps getting pushed out of place and squished down. I had some tacky gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket. I'm thinking I will try again with some silicone that's a bit more slippery. The tolerance is just so tight
 

Juskatla

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I can't offer any suggestions here since my engine was completely disassembled. The timing cover was put on after the head. If you decide to pull the cover, there are lots of other pieces to come off first. Its a slippery slope as the injection pump, power steering pump, water pump and those gears inside all have to come out. Radiator will be in the way and so on. Careful with the head stud as I damaged a couple getting them out and two the machine shop had to deal with. Fortunately, I got a few replacements from Dale @ Tractorstuff. WIth those studs out, your should be able to line it all up and drop the head onto those two dowel pins to align it all before putting back the studs.

One of the experienced guys like Melben or Tinkerer or the others that help us out here should have a suggestion for you. I'm pretty sure that the head can be removed and replaced without pulling down the rest of the engine.
 
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