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Case 580 CK rear differential way overfull why?

Juskatla

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Joined
Dec 12, 2009
Messages
579
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Black Creek B.C.
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Retired
As the pumpguy said, Tractorstuff, 800-428-8183

Shims that I got, $13.25, $13.25 and $17.00. Brake Band complete band replacement kit $50.00 each side. Disc and drum linings both sides $65. Balls, $3ea, etc. Side gear seal $15, O ring, carrier, $3

I am on the west coast of Canada and had a few shipments from Dale. All went USPS and even with Customs, they were at my door in 5 or 6 days. Would be a lot less in the US. When you order form someone like Dale, you can call and get advice and will actually get the right part sent. Dale stands behind his stuff and it can be returned if there is an issue. He has a large used parts supply for Case equipment and would probably have the bearing carrier. The cracking is not uncommon and has been mentioned on this forum in other threads.
 
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Juskatla

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2009
Messages
579
Location
Black Creek B.C.
Occupation
Retired
Just my opinion, but looking at you shims, I'd be getting all new ones ready to install as they will fit correctly and keep your adjustments the same. You can make then, but time, material and correct fit add up. Notice the drain hole that is well covered in a post by 68 Case on here in a previous post of his. Do a bit of reading in your service manual on the installation of the shims, seals and o ring on the bearing carrier. Also be sure to wrap the splines and that nasty groove on the side gear so that you don't damage the seal going back in. I did mine a couple of times without the o ring or seal to be sure I had the process down. Take your time and you'll be fine.
 

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
The shims I showed I did replace. With one I made. Took me all of 5 min
I have used Dale for many parts. Great guy. I did order the brake rod dust boots from him for this repair. As well as a WIX oil filter figured had better change the oil after the rollover.
I bought a 19.00 toaster oven form Walmart and "baked" the brakes. Even after I had cleaned them very well with brake cleaner it was surprising how much oil came out when I baked them. (350 Deg f for about 1hr did the trick).
Got it all back together, Checked the backlash with my magnetic base dial indicator and adjusted the brakes.
The electrical tape over the splines and groove was a great tip! Made installation a snap.
She stops now!
Back to work
Still need to figure out the no charging situation.
 

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Back to making some rock walls.
 

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dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
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147
Location
Utah
Hey guys my 580ck 188 has started sputtering at higher rpms. Any ideas?

Starts and runs great. 1500 rpm (running the backhoe digging holes) runs great. 2000 rpm under load (going uphill or driving in 3rd gear) it starts sputtering. Did this all day yesterday. But when I had to refuel after I filled her up it was back to running good. Then a while later it was back to sputtering. Anyone have experience with this?
 
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thepumpguysc

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Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,445
Location
Sunny South Carolina
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Don't run it at hi rpms.. lol
But seriously, its probably some floaters in the tank.. {supply restriction}
& when u call for more fuel, it gets sucked in the supply tube..
"let off the gas" & it floats off..
Getcha a real brite lite & when the fuel gets low, take a look..
I noticed u didn't say anything about changing the fuel filters..??
It'll be REAL CHEAP insurance.. & the best 20.00 you'll spend all week..
 

dad2six

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Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Don't run it at hi rpms.. lol
But seriously, its probably some floaters in the tank.. {supply restriction}
& when u call for more fuel, it gets sucked in the supply tube..
"let off the gas" & it floats off..
Getcha a real brite lite & when the fuel gets low, take a look..
I noticed u didn't say anything about changing the fuel filters..??
It'll be REAL CHEAP insurance.. & the best 20.00 you'll spend all week..
Thanks I will check into that. I did change the filters about two years ago. Probably worth it to do again tho
 

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Can I clean the tank while it’s in place? And if so what to I remove the petcock?
 

dad2six

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Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Hi guys my 1967 580ck diesel will not start this spring. It will turn over but not start. I've always been able to start it in the springtime after being winterized but not this year. I did try some starting fluid made for diesels and still no. It sounds like it wants to start but just wont fire. I added fuel conditioner in it back in the fall.
Wondering if I should just drain all the diesel out and add fresh?
I just don't know a lot about diagnosing diesel engines. Any help would be appreciated
 

1968 Case 580CK

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Apr 11, 2015
Messages
997
Location
Virginia
Hello Dad2six.......I have posted alot on my 68 580ck restoration. Mine can sit for a year and with a second or two of crank, she will fire right up and purr like a kitty. Sounds like you have a good battery, as she is cranking. So, I am thinking that maybe she is not getting fuel. Did you turn the fuel petcock on?
If so, you might try removing the fuel return line to see if the injector pump is pushing fuel.....I think the line returns to the top of the fuel filter bowl, and you can unscrew it and see if it pumps out diesel when you are cranking. If so, maybe your injectors are clogged for some reason?

What is the outside temp when you are cranking. If below freezing, maybe wait for a warm day and try again.

Also, does your intake manifold heater work? If so, did you try heating the element for a minute before cranking?
 

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
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147
Location
Utah
Thanks for your reply
Ok I was able to get it running on starting fluid. But it won’t stay running.
I flushed out all the diesel and check the filters they’re still clean I changed them last year. I took the line off that comes in from the fuel filters to the pump and I have diesel there but nothing coming out of the pump and nothing going to the injectors. The inlet coming into the pump has a screen on it but no check ball or anything that I can see. I can blow right through the screen and its clear. it’s just not pumping any fuel so I’m assuming it’s a bad injector pump orsomething in the injector pump?
 

1968 Case 580CK

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Apr 11, 2015
Messages
997
Location
Virginia
OK, so you have good fuel flowing from the tank to the filters and from there to the pump (gravity flow).
Im guessing you are right.....something clogged in the pump, or is it possible that the pump is not even turning internally? Or, maybe an air leak someplace? Do you see any fuel leaking around the pump when cranking?
Maybe someone else on this site can answer this.
 

dad2six

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Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Been working on the 580ck lately.
Rebuilt the injection pump. Runs better than ever now. I had the generator rebuilt and tested the regulator. New steering cylinders, power steering pump, rebuilt the boom and dipper cylinders. My hoe only came with a narrow 12” trenching bucket. I found a bucket off a Caterpillar backhoe for only 50 bucks. The pin holes where a little too big. So I made some bushings. My pin was just a little short to get the snap ring on. So I made pin retainer so I wouldn’t have to buy a new longer pin.
 

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1968 Case 580CK

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997
Location
Virginia
Great to get the update and see you got the injection pump rebuilt.....so, that was the problem.

On your steering cylinders, did you go with original OEM Case units, or the much better priced off-name ones? I got the off-name ones from Tractor Stuff, and the price was far cheaper......and work perfect.
 

dad2six

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Utah
I got them off eBay. 115 ea.
 

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1968 Case 580CK

Senior Member
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Apr 11, 2015
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Looks like the same ones I snagged from TractorStuff:

Not fat and beefy like the original ones, but they do the job. I will save the old ones and try to find time to rebuild them in the future:
 

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1968 Case 580CK

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2015
Messages
997
Location
Virginia
Editing problem.....lost half my reply....will type again:

Did you try to do a front allignment when doing the power steering cylinders?
Pics show my jerry-rigged method, and I tried to put a wee bit of toe-in and seemed to work great:

STA77766.JPG
 
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