AndyGrevis
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2008
- Messages
- 52
- Location
- Lettland
- Occupation
- Bobcat 863; Case CS150; Belarus 82; Claas
Hi deutz folks,
after learning from knowledge stored in this forum, would like to contribute some, and hopefully be usefull to others as well.
Now, two years ago i got BC 863 with infamous deutz engine, where camshaft which also powers diesel injections pumps, is driven by a belt, and in my case the belt has lost 5 teeth due to age. With help of Bobcatmechanic, Tallrick and others i was able to install new belt and fire her up.
I measured the hole where camshaft pin should go in, thread is in block, and camshaft has a hole where pin ends up:
on the block marked with circle
and hole where crank pin goes in, also circled (located on the back of the engine:
and came ap with a rough homemade pins:
What i did not realize until i opened up the engine is that the pin leght is equally important, not just thread and diameter, because i assumed that it locks crank just the same as cam - wrong! it sits against flat section on crank throw, so if pin is too short or too long, timing will be off:
My measurements are following, thread is M10x1; thread lenght 15mm, the pin end is 7.5mm and total lenght indicated with square frame is 52mm, though would be glad if someone could confirm it.
Also, its not entirely correct that these Deutz BF4M1011 engines do not have any timing marks at all, however, those are not visible when engine is sitting in the skider, two holes on crank-end, where hidro-drive pulley/starter teeth gear bolts on the crank, aligns with block machined surface:
Valves are intact, just 4 bent pushrods. I locked cam and put in the pin for the crank, then placed the belt on pulleys, but imediatelly realized it is off a bit. Slightly tensioned it, and removed pins and turned endine over a few times so that belt is seated correctly. then locked cam again, slightly loosened the bolt on the cam pulley, just enough that it stays straight, but allows the pulley to turn over, placed pin for the crank, and carefully turned crank slightly until crank stopped at the pin. tighttened cam pulley bolt, tensioned belt, and voila job done.
So if you can source a cheap belt and tension pulley (i bought from the dealer - ~$200
) then its really not a big problem nor is too expensive to change timing belt.
Tallrick could you chime in what was Iveco/Magirus part number to keep it all in one place?
Also would need belt tension gauge but that you can borrow from some machine shop or rent from a dealer. It is rather tough to do it with the engine in the skidder, as i could find no other way as to creep in from cab side, and look for a moment to thread in the pin, while my brother slowly turned crank, the process politely described by Atco
Thanks all for the input on this :drinkup
after learning from knowledge stored in this forum, would like to contribute some, and hopefully be usefull to others as well.
Now, two years ago i got BC 863 with infamous deutz engine, where camshaft which also powers diesel injections pumps, is driven by a belt, and in my case the belt has lost 5 teeth due to age. With help of Bobcatmechanic, Tallrick and others i was able to install new belt and fire her up.
I measured the hole where camshaft pin should go in, thread is in block, and camshaft has a hole where pin ends up:
on the block marked with circle
and hole where crank pin goes in, also circled (located on the back of the engine:
and came ap with a rough homemade pins:
What i did not realize until i opened up the engine is that the pin leght is equally important, not just thread and diameter, because i assumed that it locks crank just the same as cam - wrong! it sits against flat section on crank throw, so if pin is too short or too long, timing will be off:
My measurements are following, thread is M10x1; thread lenght 15mm, the pin end is 7.5mm and total lenght indicated with square frame is 52mm, though would be glad if someone could confirm it.
Also, its not entirely correct that these Deutz BF4M1011 engines do not have any timing marks at all, however, those are not visible when engine is sitting in the skider, two holes on crank-end, where hidro-drive pulley/starter teeth gear bolts on the crank, aligns with block machined surface:
Valves are intact, just 4 bent pushrods. I locked cam and put in the pin for the crank, then placed the belt on pulleys, but imediatelly realized it is off a bit. Slightly tensioned it, and removed pins and turned endine over a few times so that belt is seated correctly. then locked cam again, slightly loosened the bolt on the cam pulley, just enough that it stays straight, but allows the pulley to turn over, placed pin for the crank, and carefully turned crank slightly until crank stopped at the pin. tighttened cam pulley bolt, tensioned belt, and voila job done.
So if you can source a cheap belt and tension pulley (i bought from the dealer - ~$200
) then its really not a big problem nor is too expensive to change timing belt. Tallrick could you chime in what was Iveco/Magirus part number to keep it all in one place?
Also would need belt tension gauge but that you can borrow from some machine shop or rent from a dealer. It is rather tough to do it with the engine in the skidder, as i could find no other way as to creep in from cab side, and look for a moment to thread in the pin, while my brother slowly turned crank, the process politely described by Atco
Thanks all for the input on this :drinkup
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