74 case 350 crawler loader resortation

[hvguy]

you can fill 55 gallon drums with water or a bigger tank and just use a small electric utility pump or even gravity feed it( if you lift the drums or tank above the pressure washer) into a pressure washer to use...I think the car wash might object to that..LOL....nothing like 3 inches of grease to stop rust...but you end up wearing much of it as you work under her...seeing whats going on is half the battle..all those clumps of dirt and grease hinder working and taking apart, the less that gets into the internals the better..1 piece of grit in the hydraulic system can be a real *&%#@%& ...

While I have one of those big square totes, I feel its my environmental duty to not wash a bunch of grease into the water table. Ill be washing it at night to avoid problems lol.

 

[Hobbytime]

while i have one of those big square totes, i feel its my environmental duty to not wash a bunch of grease into the water table. Ill be washing it at night to avoid problems lol.

lmao..........

 

[hvguy]

Got to pull some sleeves out last night. Turned out not to be as easy as I had seen it done on youtube. I machined out a liner puller... mandrel? And a stationary block up top to attach all thread through and crank the nut till it popped. Unfortunately it was my jig that buckled and popped the welds loose.

 

[hvguy]

Determined to not have the whole night wasted... I went with the "i need a bigger hammer approach" and made a 21lb 2 handed slide hammer out of some scrap that was lying around. I didnt bother with cylinder 1 and went straight to #2, 15-20 hard pulls popped it out. Then I called it a day. I just went over there and sprayed everything down with PB blaster penetrating catalyst; put the hammer on #1 and pulled it out in 5 hits. I transferred the hammer to #3 and snapped the all thread... time to upgrade from 1/2 to 5/8.

 

[Cmark]

You've definitely got the right idea, but is that aluminium? You will need to make it out of steel. And probably step up from 1/2" to 5/8 or 3/4 threaded rod.



Edit. I posted this while you were putting up your second post. Good to see you got them out.

 

[hvguy]

You've definitely got the right idea, but is that aluminium? You will need to make it out of steel. And probably step up from 1/2" to 5/8 or 3/4 threaded rod.



Edit. I posted this while you were putting up your second post. Good to see you got them out.

yeah, aluminum is pretty strong, Example: I had a nut the same thickness as the aluminum mandrel on the bottom, the nut and rod gave out (30,000psi) and the aluminum is good as new. Probably because I form tapped it "hardened"

Just uploaded a video of it, its in 4k, but may take a while to be available in full quality.
https://youtu.be/W2-exVvzikc

 

[bronco71]

wow, are those dry liners? Mine are wet liners and popped out easily with a block of wood and hammer from the bottom. On the bad cylinder the liner actually came out with the piston/rod. My Massey tractor has dry liners and we cut the liner partially thru from top to bottom on opposite sides with a hacksaw blade and they broke out easily.

 

[hvguy]

wow, are those dry liners? Mine are wet liners and popped out easily with a block of wood and hammer from the bottom. On the bad cylinder the liner actually came out with the piston/rod. My Massey tractor has dry liners and we cut the liner partially thru from top to bottom on opposite sides with a hacksaw blade and they broke out easily.

They are wet, problem is I don't think anyone ever used coolant, and the block is rusted to death

 

[bronco71]

They are wet, problem is I don't think anyone ever used coolant, and the block is rusted to death

Oh, I see. Thought that is the same motor as mine. Mine went together nicely and has been about a year now with no problems with the engine.

 

[hvguy]

It's a case 188d engine, as long as I can get the injector pump cleaned up, block de-scaled and reassemble, it should be good for a long time. Lots to do still.

 

[Hobbytime]

They are wet, problem is I don't think anyone ever used coolant, and the block is rusted to death

can you pull the block and have it boiled?

 

[hvguy]

Too much work for what it's worth.

 

[hvguy]

Dear baby jesus, finally got the liners pulled. Gotta clean the block, possibly paint the inside? Clean up all the seal surfaces, blow out the crank, and make for DAMN sure there's no rust on the bearing surfaces when I push it all back together.

I pulled the injector pump to be cleaned and re-sealed (since it literally has a ****** of fuel shooting out of the throttle lever) I read through my manual; and it says that you should be able to just pull it from the block.... heh, yeah..... right. I had to use 2 flatheads prying to get it loose.

https://youtu.be/K4blEiqsQbs

the ****** in the above sentence is the word str3am.... somehow its censored?

 

[bronco71]

Great progress! Definitely need to get the block cleaned good where the liner o rings contact so they don't get damaged. On my 450B the whole nose shroud with the radiator, oil cooler etc tilted forward giving lots of access to the front of the engine. At that point there isn't much to getting the block out of there ....

 

[hvguy]

I had about an hour of free time today, since it was chilly (59F) I closed the doors on my container and turned on a small heater... I realize this sounds bizarre, but I was in a t-shirt and standing still. Popped the top off my injector pump and couldn't for the life of me figure out how to pull the throttle and fuel shut-off levers.... I think Im going to out-source the pump for safety. However after poking around on the interwebz, I figured it out... gonna take a stab at it tomorrow.

I cleaned the top of the block and vacuumed out all the rust only to find the top 3 webs between the cylinders are cracked. Other posts on this forum seem to have the same issue. Im going to look into this further to make sure the base of the block isn't cracked as well.

Does anyone know how to separate the water pump from the pulley? I hit it in all directions with an air hammer... nothing budged.

 

[hvguy]

also forgot to mention, I cover the engine with a trash bag and random metal plates to keep it in place in case it rains... I found a full un opened champagne bottle in cylinder 1 today... somebody is trolling me. After its all together, new gauges and running... ill break it over the bucket.

 

[thepumpguysc]

On the injection pump.. pull the black clips on the throttle/shut off shaft and pull the shafts apart.. 2 separate pieces.
If you send me your email addr. I'll send you a pump breakdown w/ p#'s..
send it to my personal addr... just put an.. a o l . c o m after my handle..

 

[hvguy]

Ill try that this evening if I get a chance.

I went and had a look in the daytime, the base of the block isn't cracked. Full steam ahead!

 

[Hobbytime]

I would pull that block have it boiled and then magna fluxed for cracks,you cant see all the cracks with the naked eye... your dumping a bunch of money into this, you may as well make sure the block is in good shape and if not replace..... so all that time and money on an engine rebuild doesnt goto waste...

 

[hvguy]

while a normal sane person would do that, im going to opt out and just rebuild it; pretending everything is A-OK lol.

It worked, had good oil when taken apart, had anything else been wrong, I would pull it and replace the whole block.