Tinkerer
Senior Member
Have you followed Steve's recommendation. That is the first thing that should be done.
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580ck coolant blowing out rad cap
- Thread starter skidoomanott
- Start date
skidoomanott
Active Member
580ck coolant
Upon removing the head bolts, I noticed they were not very tight. Found out my torque wrench is defective. There was coolant all across the head. So I assumed my problem was due to the defective wrench and bought a new one and changed the head gasket. Well seems I am back to square one.......No longer than 3 seconds after firing the machine up, coolant starts squirting out the rad cap. I might be wrong but am not convinced the head is warped, had it checked at a local machine shop. Any other things I should be looking for? FYI, the motor is 188 diesel. Thanks
Upon removing the head bolts, I noticed they were not very tight. Found out my torque wrench is defective. There was coolant all across the head. So I assumed my problem was due to the defective wrench and bought a new one and changed the head gasket. Well seems I am back to square one.......No longer than 3 seconds after firing the machine up, coolant starts squirting out the rad cap. I might be wrong but am not convinced the head is warped, had it checked at a local machine shop. Any other things I should be looking for? FYI, the motor is 188 diesel. Thanks
alrman
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2009
- Messages
- 3,308
- Location
- QLD Australia
- Occupation
- Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Sometimes the problem is at the block. Check liner protusion & then place a straight edge across all the liners & see if they are the same height. If there is any difference, it will allow the gasket to leak. To repair properly the block must be decked (machined) & all counterbores for liners checked/machined. BUT, I have had some success where machining was not an option & I have cut some shims to intall under the liner flange of lower cyls to even out the height problem.
If the liners are even, it is possible a liner is cracked, allowing compression to escape to cooling system. Never actually seen this myself, but worth looking at.
If the liners are even, it is possible a liner is cracked, allowing compression to escape to cooling system. Never actually seen this myself, but worth looking at.
skidoomanott
Active Member
580ck coolant
Pulled the injector from the second cylinder from the fan and the coolant stopped blowing out the rad. That cylinder had work done to it before and there are chunks out of the head at that cylinder. Might be a hairline crack in the head? The piston and sleeve were also changed on that cylinder prior to me owning it....
Pulled the injector from the second cylinder from the fan and the coolant stopped blowing out the rad. That cylinder had work done to it before and there are chunks out of the head at that cylinder. Might be a hairline crack in the head? The piston and sleeve were also changed on that cylinder prior to me owning it....
Tinkerer
Senior Member
FWIW this is the proper way to check the sleeve protrusion. I learned this in one of Phil's threads. The instrument is called a Uni-Mike Micrometer. Mine is made by Mitutoyo. Phil wanted to buy it form me when I was done with it.. But I have not been able to contact him. I wonder what happened to Phil. I miss seeing new posts from him.
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alrman
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2009
- Messages
- 3,308
- Location
- QLD Australia
- Occupation
- Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Huh! After all these years I always thought my fingernail was good enough!
Good onya Tinkerer!
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Thats a good one about the fingernails Alrman !
skidoomanott ,
What caused the valve to seize ? The head must have had a lot of stress put on it if you had a seized valve that would bent a connecting rod. Those rods are really tough.
skidoomanott ,
What caused the valve to seize ? The head must have had a lot of stress put on it if you had a seized valve that would bent a connecting rod. Those rods are really tough.
dwloop
Well-Known Member
Thats a good one about the fingernails Alrman !
skidoomanott ,
What caused the valve to seize ? The head must have had a lot of stress put on it if you had a seized valve that would bent a connecting rod. Those rods are really tough.
I assumed he meant it bent a push rod...
Dave
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Chunks out of the head ??? It must of had a broken off valve bouncing around in the combustion chamber. That would explain the reason for a new piston and rod. If it were me I would be looking for a replacement head to rebuild. Or better yet a remanufactured head with a warranty.
dwloop, I also am sure he meant a pushrod . I took the statement he made for what it meant.
skidoomanott
Active Member
580ck
Gonna try and start from the beginning but want to say I appreciate all input.
580ck 188 D motor. When I bought it, the rad was leaking and seemed to not be running on all cylinders. I changed the rad, bought a used one and installed an external cooler to save money. Also installed a mechanical temp gauge. After some use, there was coolant in the oil, blown head gasket. I pulled the head off to change it then noticed the seized valve and bent push rod. It was just floating around. I bought a used rod and some used valves. My friend ground down the valves to resat them. I have a good service manual so we followed the manual when we did any repairs. The bent rod and seized valve were in the cylinder closest to the fan. Also noticed that the second cylinder had damage to the head, score marks. Rather big ones. The guy I bought it from told me that one cylinder had a piston and sleeve changed and by seeing the score marks in the head, it was easy to see that it was cylinder two. Got it back together and no leaks but still not full power. A guy came out to take a look, Phil from this forum and said it looks like my valves need to be adjusted, he was right. Thanks Phil. So now it is running good, full power. That was last year and got to use the machine a bit. Then this year, used it for a bit when all of the sudden the coolant starting shooting out the rad. That happened after using it for an hour or so and only when I parked it and it was idling. So this time there was oil on the inside of the rad cap. Another head gasket. So off it came only to find the bolts were not tightened to spec, defective torque wrench. There was coolant across 3 cylinders when we opened her up. So I assume if I buy a new head gasket and new torque wrench, it should be good to go. Not the case. About 10-15 secs after firing her up, coolant comes out the rad. This time, no oil in the rad cap. So we remove the injector on cylinder two and not coolant coming out the rad. I put the injector back in and coolant starts to blow out the rad. So I now know it is that cylinder that is giving me the problem. Pressure is getting from the cylinder to the cooling system. Everyone says the head is notoriously tough so I want to rule the head out. My question is/are: Is there anything to do to diagnose before I pull the head off? When pulling the head off what should I be looking for. I am not a mechanic and my friend helping me is a "backyard mechanic" and never worked on diesel but is good and getting his hands dirty and trying to figure stuff out. I appreciate all the help here and look forward to some more feedback. Thanks
Gonna try and start from the beginning but want to say I appreciate all input.
580ck 188 D motor. When I bought it, the rad was leaking and seemed to not be running on all cylinders. I changed the rad, bought a used one and installed an external cooler to save money. Also installed a mechanical temp gauge. After some use, there was coolant in the oil, blown head gasket. I pulled the head off to change it then noticed the seized valve and bent push rod. It was just floating around. I bought a used rod and some used valves. My friend ground down the valves to resat them. I have a good service manual so we followed the manual when we did any repairs. The bent rod and seized valve were in the cylinder closest to the fan. Also noticed that the second cylinder had damage to the head, score marks. Rather big ones. The guy I bought it from told me that one cylinder had a piston and sleeve changed and by seeing the score marks in the head, it was easy to see that it was cylinder two. Got it back together and no leaks but still not full power. A guy came out to take a look, Phil from this forum and said it looks like my valves need to be adjusted, he was right. Thanks Phil. So now it is running good, full power. That was last year and got to use the machine a bit. Then this year, used it for a bit when all of the sudden the coolant starting shooting out the rad. That happened after using it for an hour or so and only when I parked it and it was idling. So this time there was oil on the inside of the rad cap. Another head gasket. So off it came only to find the bolts were not tightened to spec, defective torque wrench. There was coolant across 3 cylinders when we opened her up. So I assume if I buy a new head gasket and new torque wrench, it should be good to go. Not the case. About 10-15 secs after firing her up, coolant comes out the rad. This time, no oil in the rad cap. So we remove the injector on cylinder two and not coolant coming out the rad. I put the injector back in and coolant starts to blow out the rad. So I now know it is that cylinder that is giving me the problem. Pressure is getting from the cylinder to the cooling system. Everyone says the head is notoriously tough so I want to rule the head out. My question is/are: Is there anything to do to diagnose before I pull the head off? When pulling the head off what should I be looking for. I am not a mechanic and my friend helping me is a "backyard mechanic" and never worked on diesel but is good and getting his hands dirty and trying to figure stuff out. I appreciate all the help here and look forward to some more feedback. Thanks
Tinkerer
Senior Member
It looks like you have done a good job already of diagnosing the problem. You removed a fuel injector and the blowby stopped. That narrowed the problem down to one particular area.
Never assume anything. The head may still be the problem. The new head gasket may have increased the pressure to where a crack in the head may now be leaking.
I know of only three ways combustion gases can get into the coolant.
1 - The new head gasket is leaking. Could be from a warped head after an improper head bolt torquing. Uneven top deck on the block.
2 - Cylinder liner protusion is not the same on all the cylinders. A couple of different situations can cause that. Reread Alrmans post on 9-25-2011 about that. Or the cylinder liner has a crack or hole in it.
3 - The head is cracked and is leaking. It should be checked by Magnafluxing it. Any competent head rebuilder should be able to do it.
Before you remove the head again be sure to remove the coolant drain plug from the block. That will ensure that you won't be seeing coolant all over the engine block when the head is removed.. The coolant you may see , then could possibly give an indication where the problem is.