580ck coolant blowing out rad cap

[skidoomanott]

Changed the head gasket last year after having coolant in the oil. Now the coolant is blowing out the rad cap, when idling. This is with the thermostat in and after working the machine for 1/2 hr. There is a loss of power. Taken the thermostat out and coolant does not blow out the cap until I step on the throttle. Tested the thermostat in boiling water and it does open up............Thanks

 

[shawneecat]

Had similar problem. It has a one and half inch radiator neck. I changed the radiator cap with one with a gasket at the top and the correct length and tapped the top of the brass neck down a little so it would be tight and that fixed my problem.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260820080499&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Similar to this one but I got mine at tractor supply.

 

[clay digger]

Did you have the head surfaced while you had it off? A warped head could have caused both of your problems.

 

[skidoomanott]

I only had the head checked at a local machine shop, he used a straight edge.....If it indeed warped and I get it resurfaced, do I use a "thicker" head gasket? Thanks for the quick reply.

 

[clay digger]

No you don't need a thicker gasket but if you do take the head off, check the block for warp with good straight edges.

 

[skidoomanott]

head or block?

So a simple straight edge on both the block and head will be sufficient enough to tell me if either is warped? I know the head can be resurfaced but what if the block is warped? Am just confused that before changing the head gasket, the coolant was going into the oil pan and now it is blowing out the rad cap? I could understand the block being warped if the leak was in the same place? Just asking and thanks.

 

[clay digger]

I would suggest two good straight edges, one at each end to check for twist on both the head and block. Then move one of your straight edges over the surface looking for daylight underneath with a trouble light on the other side. If you see a gap, check with a feeler gauge and your head shop will be able to tell you how much is acceptable. I am not suggesting that you have a head gasket problem for sure, it's just one of the things that came to mind when you described the symptoms. Hope you find a quick and cheap solution!

 

[DirtIsMyName]

It sounds like you are on the right track with power loss and all but I would put a pressure tester on the radiator and run it to see if the pressure builds too high before I took the engine apart. You may be able to borrow the tester at an auto parts store. Temperature testers got really cheap, I'd check temps too.

 

[Leon Phelps]

get an infrared temp gun. $20 at harbor freight. you will use it for the rest of your life. It will tell you where the overheating problem is at on the block.

 

[steve loving]

The pressure tester is a good investment. Before starting with everthing cold hook up radiator tester and start the engine. If pressure starts building before the water starts to warm up you have problems because heat is what builds pressure in the cooling system so if nothing is warm yet its coming from gasket/crack somewhere

 

[jamer]

Is the rad. cap in good condition and sealing to rad. neck. If not it can cause the coolant to boil and push out if the system is not pressurized.

 

[shawneecat]

That's exactly the point I was trying to make does it have the correct radiator cap? It's a one and half inch long neck!

 

[shawneecat]

http://catalog.miniscience.com/Catalog/Sodium_Silicate/Default.html

Have you thought about water glass, Sodium Silicate !

 

[shawneecat]

http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/graphics/401232.gif

K&W product

 

[skidoomanott]

580 ck

To get back to my issue, not sure if I posted that there is oil in the rad. It blows out the rad cap almost as soon as I start the engine. No coolant in the oil which is what I had before I changed the head gasket. As stated earlier also, machine shop checked the head for warpage. Maybe he did not do a good job checking?

 

[TD-5]

Is the oil in the radiator engine oil or Hydraulic oil?? I might suspect the hydraulic oil cooler in the bottom radiator tank.

 

[skidoomanott]

oil in coolant

The machine came with the rad with the cooler at the bottom of the rad but I replaced it with one with no cooler. I added an external cooler so is not possible for the hydraulic oil to get in the rad. Thanks

 

[skidoomanott]

580ck

I suspect the torque wrench I used when changing the head gasket may have been out of calibration. My question is: Can I just tighten the head bolts to the right specs without changing the head gasket and see if that was the issue or do I need to change the head gasket? Thanks

 

[Tinkerer]

Check your head bolts with another torque wrench that you know is accurate. Those bolts may be tighter than you think. Did you change the head gasket because of the oil/coolant problem ? Or was there another reason for the gasket change ?
Did you do a real through radiator flush after you swapped it for the new one ? The engine block may have retained oil in the water cavity and then contaminated your new radiator.

 

[skidoomanott]

580ck

I put the new/used rad in because the one that was in it was leaking. I changed the head gasket because it was leaking, coolant in the oil. Both were changed last year and had no issues until working the machine this summer. The problem did not start right away but after maybe 40 hours of use. It actually was working well. This time there is oil in the rad, coolant was blowing out the rad cap and that was when it was noticed there is oil in the rad....I did do a flush after finding coolant in the oil. The guy I bought it from says there was work done to one of the cylinders. I had a seized valve and bent rod but I corrected that problem when I changed the head gasket.