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Case 580 CK rear differential way overfull why?

dad2six

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Hey guys what fluid and how much in the transmission?
Up by the bell housing area.
I just drained it all out of here
image.jpg

I know I fill it up here but there is no dipstick I can see. So how much do I put in???
image.jpg
 

Juskatla

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2009
Messages
579
Location
Black Creek B.C.
Occupation
Retired
The power shuttle fill is ahead of the 4 spd trans shifter. Originally, it called for Case TCH but now it will be Hytran Ultra, not cheap but the best choice. I'm no where near my manuals but I recall it being about 17 qts. Xpack or 68case may have pics for you of the filler. The whole torque tube is filled from that location as its all connected right up to the flywheel. The hole by the regulator is not an oil fill. That is where you would check the timing marks on the flywheel.
 

onemank6

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
1,175
Location
michigan
d26 ...........Thats not trans oil you drained my friend it is shuttle oil ........the trans oil is a shared compartment with the rear end oil and it is a 80-90wt oil in there ...........the shuttle is the hy trans oil like jusk said and the best stuff to get for it is the case brand tch they do act a little better with the case oil rather than the tsc stuff.........
In this pic is the dipsticks for the shuttle compartment its the one in front of the shifter and the one behind the shifter is for the rearend and trans......they are about a 1 1/8 socket to remove them and theres a dipstick attached to them ...........
081.jpg

Under the tractor is 3 drain plugs the one you removed which is all the way forward under the bellhousing then there should be one about half way back these 2 are for the shuttle compartment i drain both when i change shuttle oil............then there should be one back further for the trans/rearend oil (80-90)...........

Im pretty sure jusk is also right about the 17 qts for the shuttle and im thinking about the same for the rearend/trans oil .....seems like 1 -5 gallon bucket of each does the job with a little left over...........
dont forget there is a shuttle oil filter in front of the radiator you should change while your changing the shuttle oil..........

If you need anything else just let us know..........
 
Last edited:

dad2six

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Thanks xpack
Yes I'm still learning about this old tractor. I keep using automotive terms.

Anyway. When I filled up the shuttle oil to full on the dipstick (one just in front of the shifter) I can remove the front most drain plug and nothing comes out. ?? Do j need to start it to get the fluid circulating or something?
 

onemank6

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
1,175
Location
michigan
Thanks xpack
Yes I'm still learning about this old tractor. I keep using automotive terms.

Anyway. When I filled up the shuttle oil to full on the dipstick (one just in front of the shifter) I can remove the front most drain plug and nothing comes out. ?? Do j need to start it to get the fluid circulating or something?

d26 ..........Yea i think you need to run it some to get oil in that part of the compartment if you were to remove that middle drain plug you should get oil out of it .........I have heard that some of these ck's and the b's have a drain plug to be able to drain the torque converter itself which is the same oil as the shuttle oil .........On my ck the torque converter has a allen plug so i can drain mine and the way i access the plug is to remove the front drain plug that you removed under the bell housing then you can look up in there with a flashlight and have someone rotate the engine while you are looking in that hole for the little allen plug in the torque converter .........its a pita with the shuttle oil dripping in your face but doable..........Just as a note i did this with my neighbors 580b and his torque converter and his doesnt have a plug like mine does im not sure why some of them have them and some dont........

If you already added oil i wouldnt worry about trying to drain the torque converter this time but the next time you do this i would look to see if you even have a plug in the torque converter and if so drain it to...........

fire it up and move it around and recheck your oil level top it off if need be and call it good..........

How did your filter look ??????????
 

dad2six

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Thanks so much for your knowledge xpack
the shuttle filter looked normal. No issues
 

dad2six

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah

SineWave

Active Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2016
Messages
25
Location
Virginia
Has anyone made a boom lock for their 580ck? Besides the chains

For that matter, does anyone have a diagram or picture (or explanation) of how/where the chains should be fastened to immobilize the hoe? I'll need to drive mine 10 miles or so on the road to get it on site and I want to make sure the backhoe can't swing. Thanks!
 

Juskatla

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2009
Messages
579
Location
Black Creek B.C.
Occupation
Retired
The Operators manual has a couple of pictures of the chains that are attached to each side of the stabilzers aabout half way down and hook into a strap welded to the boom. The chains are stored hooked to the loops welded on each side of the backhoe main frame above the stabilzers. No Pins or other such stuff on the model 33 backhoe. On mine, after having the swing cylinders rebuilt, there is no movement on road travel. The chains are long gone. On the other hand, it will leak down if I leave it overnight in the up position. For safety, the loader and hoe really should always be set down when left unattended to avoid unintended consequences.
 

Grady

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2012
Messages
573
Location
NH
If you still have the original loops welded above the tops of the stabilizers and the metal grab under the boom, there were 2 chains with bent metal hooks that came with the machine. I use a single chain from one loop through the piece on the boom - although you don't even need that piece if it's missing - and then over to a grab hook that I welded in place of the other loop. If you still have both loops, you just run the chain through the second loop and hook it back to itself when you have the boom up. Leave a little slack when you hook the chain and it will tighten as it settles and leave room to undo it by raising the boom when the time comes. If you chain it up tight, you may have trouble getting it undone.
 

dad2six

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
147
Location
Utah
Hey guys this may be a dumb question but on the front wheels do they have tubes in them?
 

1968 Case 580CK

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2015
Messages
997
Location
Virginia
Hey guys this may be a dumb question but on the front wheels do they have tubes in them?

dad266......Yep, its a good idea to use tubes. I just put 4 new tires on my 580CK and the tire people convinced me that the rear tires did not need tubes, so I just had tubes put in the front ones. Well, the front tires hold air perfectly, but both rear tires are leaking real bad. Dont listen to those dumbazz tire people when they tell you that tubes are not needed.
 

Grady

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2012
Messages
573
Location
NH
'68, I need rear tires on my CK. What did you go with and do you like them? Did you have to do any work to the wheels? My valve holes are rusty - I know, sounds like a personal problem.
 
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