Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

[darinray]

yeah they are all rusty, dusty, oily, dirty. Can't stand the smell of this work. Open a compartment that has been sealed for years and everything you touch is filthy and the smell lingers way too long.

 

[Dozerboy28]

Darinray and Jolley Giant,

I have been following your recent conversations about Jolley's steering problem on his D20p-6. Funny thing is that I just bought a D21P-6 and I am having the same problems and everything in those pictures I am seeing in front of me. By the way, the pictures have been very helpful. Right know I have it tore down to the left hand clutch assy. and I can't seem to remove it. I have all the bolts out of it, inboard and outboard, I can also see a lip on the inside edge. It is loose and I can wiggle every thing real good, but it doesn't seem to want to come out. The maintenance manual has a little note that states to remove the "clutch pilot." Am I missing something obvious? Like I said it is all loose and acts like it wants to come out, but it just won't. Please help.

 

[KTBAUGH]

Clutch problem

Hello dozerboy,

you will need to make sure that the arm that disengages the clutch is all the way back. It should move from side to side by hand. If not tap it with a hammer toward the center of the machine. Your clutch pack could be hanging up on the 4 ears that disengage the clutch.
If this is not the problem, you can take a pry bar or chisel between the inner flange and clutch pack. This will shove the clutch pack toward the final drive to allow you enough room to pull it out. Let me know if you need any other advice.

Thank you,
kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

 

[darinray]

You might even see that when using a chisel to move the clutche pack inside the outer drum that it just springs back out once you drive the chisel back out. What you will end up having to do is keep rotating the track so you can work the opposite side and then even 1/4 turns until you drive the pack finally inside.

If you are trying to release the slip yoke ears that actually do the clutch releasing I just had to use the chisel technique on that too because when you tried to "tap" with a hammer your bearing stays put with the ears right in the way and the slip yoke moves only. So then you drive your chisel between the inner flange and the slip yoke. Mine released after soakign in penetrating oil and beating it out.

Keep in mind the chisel can fly back toward you when attempting these methods so BE WARNED and take safety measures.

Darin

 

[Dozerboy28]

D21P-6 clutch removal

You might even see that when using a chisel to move the clutche pack inside the outer drum that it just springs back out once you drive the chisel back out. What you will end up having to do is keep rotating the track so you can work the opposite side and then even 1/4 turns until you drive the pack finally inside.

If you are trying to release the slip yoke ears that actually do the clutch releasing I just had to use the chisel technique on that too because when you tried to "tap" with a hammer your bearing stays put with the ears right in the way and the slip yoke moves only. So then you drive your chisel between the inner flange and the slip yoke. Mine released after soakign in penetrating oil and beating it out.

Keep in mind the chisel can fly back toward you when attempting these methods so BE WARNED and take safety measures.

Darin

How far should the clutch pack recess into the outer drum? All the way or just some? I broke it loose with some scrumf and BFT's, but it just doesn't want to come out.

Thanks again for the helpointhead

 

[darinray]

basically it goes in just far enough to clear the flange ridges. Can you look down to see if the forks are in the way? Drive a chisel down pushing the clutch pack in a shine flashlight down to see. Everything is stuborn when old and used.

 

[shouldabeen]

Where's the masterlink d21p-7

All pins have a dimple and no link looks different no inside link found.

 

[darinray]

Well that does make it tough. Now what you have to do is make sure your tracks are nice and clean and take a flashlight and look down at every link and find the master bushing which doesn't go into the dog ears of the track. If you can image the pin being removed the link would have to be able to raise out of the dog ears so the bushing is shorter than a regular link bushing. if you can see that the bushing woudl clear the dog ears then that is the master link. Keep us posted.

 

[shouldabeen]

Thanks Darin and after its found how far out on the arm does it need to be b-4 I can remove a link and still get it back together.. I am ready for the rollers I couldnt believe the bolts all came out

 

[TD-8]

I have a D20-A5 komatsu that has pedal steering. I would like to change it over to stick controls. What will i need to change it over? do salvage yards offer these parts in a kit? Has anyone changed the steering systems on one of these dozers?

thanks
luke

 

[shouldabeen]

Well that does make it tough. Now what you have to do is make sure your tracks are nice and clean and take a flashlight and look down at every link and find the master bushing which doesn't go into the dog ears of the track. If you can image the pin being removed the link would have to be able to raise out of the dog ears so the bushing is shorter than a regular link bushing. if you can see that the bushing woudl clear the dog ears then that is the master link. Keep us posted.

are ther any diff kind of tracks on these units I can not see or understand what im looking for will load picts tomorrow.

 

[darinray]

Been having trouble getting on the forum lately.

You want to make sure they are nice and wore and stretched. The front idler needs to be at the end of the limit hanging close to the end or over the end is better.

Thanks Darin and after its found how far out on the arm does it need to be b-4 I can remove a link and still get it back together.. I am ready for the rollers I couldnt believe the bolts all came out

 

[shouldabeen]

Been having trouble getting on the forum lately.

You want to make sure they are nice and wore and stretched. The front idler needs to be at the end of the limit hanging close to the end or over the end is better.

Its almost or is at the end so I will try to remove a link then hopfully get some more use out em the pins and links are still good just have no more adjustment and then ill be hitten you up but so far I still cant find the masterlink

 

[Frank Dozer]

Selling my Komatsu D21A-5....

Before I go public with an ad, I am selling my Komatsu D21A-5. Runs like new and needs nothing. I think $9,500.00 plus or minus is a reasonable price.

 

[Dozerboy28]

Darin,

I finally got the steering clutches out of the machine (D21P-6). They feel a little gritty and some of them are pitted, but none of them are stuck together. Is the grittyness normal or should they be sleek and shiny? Do you know what the fiber measurement should be on a serviceable clutch plate?

 

[darinray]

The steel plates are smooth new and should have no pits. The clutches are 5.4 mm - replace time. They say that when they are new they are 6mm thick but haven't even measured one yet. The steel plates are 2mm new and 1.8 repace. Hope this helps and talk to you anytime.

 

[ctkiteboarding]

d217a

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looking at this dozer, its a 1995 and has 2k on the meter owner says it has joy stick control? anyone have seat time on a small dozer like this? pros cons etc thanks in advance

 

[GDW]

I hope I'm not getting in the way here. I didn't see a way to post on this specific branch of the forum. I haven't been active on the forum in a long time. I'm sure glad to see the "little dozer" branch here. Thanks to all.
I have a D20 S_5 track loader, the glow wire in the circuit for the glow plugs has corroded/burned in two. I am thinkin of replacing it with a common automotive type ballast resistor. Does anyone know the approximate resistance value of the element. The electrical system is 24v, but I think the plugs are 12 or 10v ??? Any, and ALL help appreciated. Gary

 

[GDW]

edit/update :
I pulled one of the glow plugs, cleaned it up, and it's marked
ND 067100-1161 20.5v 6T.
I put 12.8 volts on its at the bench, and it pulled about 8 amps
and got very hot, very quick, and of course the current dropped as the element heated up. Does the 20.5v mean that's the max voltage, or the operating voltage, or what ??
Maybe the circuit doesn't need a dropping resistor ?
What about wiring a 24v lite bulb in place of the indicating coil ? Sure would hate to burn up the plugs.
Any ideas ? Gary

 

[darinray]

The best thing and easiest thing for you to do is just replace the glow plug indicator. If you want to get one contact me privately because my posts have been too forthcoming and was reported.

Didn't mean to make the moderators have to clean my posts up but was just trying to help.