Z60/34 drive problems

[Bhoyrob]

Hello guys.
I have here a Z60/34 with a serial no.Z6007-6729,Deutz F3L 2011 engine.When the machine is in stowed or elevated doesnt change the spèed(when in full height and extended causes too much jerking).I already replaced the drive jostick and calibrated it successfully,also replaced new limit switches(3) and check the wires all okay.Replaced also the coils for the brake and motor stroke and its still the same.Need some help guys.Thanks in advance...

 

[skata]

Machine moves at full speed when elevated?

 

[Txhayseed]

I would assume your stuck in low speed elevated drive speed if drive speed is your compliant ?? Its a redundant system they go to great lengths to assure boom does not travel at transport speed when elevated. Multiple limit switches ensure that speed is reduced when elevated and give the machine a primary and secondary fail-safe. Or are you saying that the motor is stuck in high idle and does not idle down with the foot switch released and your basket controls a very touchy ?? Only main boom lift and stowed drive should command rpm increase. Boom lift of course with foot switch closed and lift up commanded and drive of course stowed with drive commanded. What exactly are you referring to. Drive or functions ??

 

[Bhoyrob]

Drive speed issue Sir,when stowed or elevated when you forward or reverse the drive joystick its fast not slow when extend,boom up the primary and secondary.All boom tunctions are ok except the drive.

 

[Txhayseed]

Has to be a limit switch issue or wiring if your not going into elevated drive. You should have one limit switch on boom/extend retract that kicks in at about 30% extension to put you into low speed drive. That switch will put you into low speed drive regardless of boom elevation once you extend out past limit switch. Then your primary and secondary booms should also have a limit switch that will activate once a certain height is reached. Normally an inactive limit switch will cause you to trigger an alarm and prevent you from moving since the machine needs a complete circuit. If you open the basket controls up and look at your board is it flashing you any codes ? If you replaced the limit switches you need to test each one stowed and then on the limit. Make sure they are all working on both sides of the range. The two boom elevation sensors should be a back up of each other since the boom lift cylinder sequences the secondary boom cylinder to keep boom in alignment as you raise and lower. Never had two fail together. I would go back and recheck your switches in both positions.

 

[skata]

Did you just get this machine? Perhaps someone bypassed the limit switches?

 

[Bhoyrob]

Good day sir.Yes I already did checked the harness that goes to the three limit switches and I replaced new ones(limit switches).I also bypassed the limit switches from the blue/white wire to the orange wire that goes to the alc500 control card.But still same issue.I also checked the voltage going out from the joystick min.2.35V and 4.98 max at full stroke.The output going to the white and white/black(forward/reverse) to the EDC. is 12.34volts,I think is a little bit high.I dont have a WEB GPI software to check the parameters.Is there any other way to make this work or maybe a RESET? Thanks in ADVANCE!!!!

 

[Txhayseed]

Web gpi wont help you much unless you have a broad understanding of how it works. Its not like a scanner for your car that gives you codes and walk you through. Its raw data that you have you understand how to interpret. No click here to set xyz or abc. Waste of money for 95 of people. I only use web gpi to calibrate 100-150 foot booms on job sites do to the size you cant do manual calibration. Also the only controls that you can set max out ramp rates and thresholds for are proportionately controlled valves. Drive is not a proportionally controlled. Its relative to out voltage from joy stick then interrupted by acl500 then on down line to then down the line some more its setting swash plate angle at drive pump based on demand and so on and so forth. Your joy stick is a hall effect based on a +- 5 volt reference. Your 500 board will flag any voltage error from a joy stick and tell you there is a problem. No errors on 500 board then your joy sticks are fine. Here again drive is not an adjustable parameter you can do anything with Messing with the joy stick. Aside from calibration for the hall effect sensor its plug and play. Here agian. You said limit switches where by passed.. Why ?? Well you got to figure out that. You replaced them why ?? Well they where bad/broke or whatever when you got. Its a magnetic proximity switch. How exactly are you jumping it and what do you assume its doing for you in terms of diagnostics and solving your problem ? I can get into how all that works but why not start with the most logical most simple solution and then work your way into this rabbit hole your going down. Its like I tell all of my guys KISS. Look for the simple first. Its usually the cause
And how exactly did you check your limit switches aside from twisting wires together. Its your machine you can test it and work on it how you choose. However if it was me in your shoes i would stop and back track my steps and properly test the basics first before going right to x then z. A,b or c is usually the culprit from the get go

 

[Bhoyrob]

I will try to do the basics again.Thank you very much for your time and info's.I do appreciate it....