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wrenching on C series 8.3 Cummins

amunderdog

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
297
Location
Sunbright,TN
I need to pull the air compressor 8.3 cummins air compressor.jpg
The manual i have shows a coupler to the drive gear. It does not make it clear how the coupler works.
I think you just unbolt from block, pull the compressor back and the coupler comes with it.
What holds the drive gear in position?
Can someone help clarify this procedure?
 

BCB

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Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Messages
84
Location
Asheville, NC
sorry i have nothing to add to your question but man o man i can tell you how to get that pump to put out a lot more fuel.
 

amunderdog

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
297
Location
Sunbright,TN
That would be a fun read.
Post up or PM
This motor is very easy on fuel so far. Would have to go thru my notes to try and put a number on it.
More power would be very helpfull though.
Thanks
 

Muffler Bearing

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Mar 26, 2009
Messages
512
Location
Colorful Colorado
Occupation
Truck Mechanic
I've worked on those engines a bunch, but only when they were in snowcats. Wish I had something helpful. I know there aren't any real tricks to pulling the comp on an M11.
 

hollywood

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May 16, 2009
Messages
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Location
Albuquerque
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Coporate Technician Trainer
The coupler is for the power steering pump to the compressor connection. The compressor is just gear driven off the cam gear. No need to worry about a coupler. However do worry about the timing of the compressor when it goes back on. The timing of the compressor is for engine balance. Not like timing a fuel pump if you don't get it right it won't run.

That looks like a holset so here are the instructions for timing the compressors. Viewing the compressor from the gear end (with the compressor in a vertical position), rotate the gear so the “l” timing mark is at the 12-o'clock position. This will set the compressor at 60 degrees before top dead center of the compressor's compression stroke. Make sure your engine is set at TDC.
 

Muffler Bearing

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Mar 26, 2009
Messages
512
Location
Colorful Colorado
Occupation
Truck Mechanic
Removing Cummins ISM Compressor

This is obviously a little different from your C engine, but it might be that coupler you were reading about. It is just a splined metal collar. What did you find under yours? Did the gear come out with it?
 

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amunderdog

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
297
Location
Sunbright,TN
That collar is what the manual shows. Nice pictures. Thanks
I have not done the deed yet.
Looks like i will have to go deeper to fix my oil leak.
The timing cover is cracked (tried to patch and failed)
The timing gear case has a big ol ugly patch running down behind air compressor (looks like it will interfere with new gasket).
I am trying to round up usable parts (gear housing - gear cover - gaskets and seals).
And figure out what i am up against.
Looks like i will be starting at the hood and working my way in.
 

Muffler Bearing

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Mar 26, 2009
Messages
512
Location
Colorful Colorado
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Truck Mechanic
Fun fun. This one has a pulley driven off the gear on the front side opposite the comp. It was wobbling pretty good and making some noise. I guess the housing it rides in was a little worn out. Hopefully a new one tightens the slop and hopefully I can get that gear timed without pulling the front cover off.
Good luck with that engine, the big thing I ran into was oil coolers blowing out and turning all the coolant into "Mung"
 

Knucklehead

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Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
73
Location
Southern Illinois
That collar is what the manual shows. Nice pictures. Thanks
I have not done the deed yet.
Looks like i will have to go deeper to fix my oil leak.
The timing cover is cracked (tried to patch and failed)
The timing gear case has a big ol ugly patch running down behind air compressor (looks like it will interfere with new gasket).
I am trying to round up usable parts (gear housing - gear cover - gaskets and seals).
And figure out what i am up against.
Looks like i will be starting at the hood and working my way in.

When Ford sent me to school on this engine, Cummins had just started sending us brackets for the rear of the compressor. You may want to check and make sure this bracket is there. If not, you may want to check for a possible warranty issue. I have done a bunch of them.

If it is not a warranty issue, and you have to do it yourself, be QUICK about it. The procedure for it at the time was using wooden dowels and rubber bands to hold the lifters up. They used to have mushroomed lifters that installed from the bottom. You gotta get in and out before the wood soaks up to much oil and swells in the lifter . First one I did I had a really close call on that. It was a Hail Mary involving Vicegrips and a prybar, but it worked
 

amunderdog

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Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
297
Location
Sunbright,TN
Compressor rear bracket is there.
Looking at the manual:dizzy
Front gear housing appears to be a rough job for a novice.
The cover does not look to bad to replace.
Thanks Knucklehead for the tips.
How many hours should this job take a skilled wrench?
Remove and replace: front gear housing - gear cover - associated gaskets and seals.
My guess is 6 hours.
 
Last edited:

Willis Bushogin

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Joined
Nov 6, 2007
Messages
855
Location
NC
Occupation
owner
The coupler is for the power steering pump to the compressor connection. The compressor is just gear driven off the cam gear. No need to worry about a coupler. However do worry about the timing of the compressor when it goes back on. The timing of the compressor is for engine balance. Not like timing a fuel pump if you don't get it right it won't run.

That looks like a holset so here are the instructions for timing the compressors. Viewing the compressor from the gear end (with the compressor in a vertical position), rotate the gear so the “l” timing mark is at the 12-o'clock position. This will set the compressor at 60 degrees before top dead center of the compressor's compression stroke. Make sure your engine is set at TDC.
I had a #5 injector line break today on my 8.3L, is this a common thing? It looked like this one had been replaced before>
 

amunderdog

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
297
Location
Sunbright,TN
Are you going to have to pull the camshaft to replace the timing cover?

Not to replace the cover. To replace the gear housing the cam comes out.
That is where the dowels and rubber bands come in; to hold the tappets up.

How much time do you have before the dowels seize in tappets?
 

hollywood

Active Member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
30
Location
Albuquerque
Occupation
Coporate Technician Trainer
I had a #5 injector line break today on my 8.3L, is this a common thing? It looked like this one had been replaced before>

Honestly I don't remember if that was a common problem or not. The only thing I do remember was the line splitting from over torque on the fuel line nut. I even had several lines split in my own truck, 6.9 diesel in an 84 ford f250 from over torque. The fuel line nuts torque is 18 ft -lb. The other thing that could break fuel lines are missing vibration isolators. If yours is just breaking off I would check to make sure you are not missing an isolator.
 

Knucklehead

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Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
73
Location
Southern Illinois
Compressor rear bracket is there.
Looking at the manual:dizzy
Front gear housing appears to be a rough job for a novice.
The cover does not look to bad to replace.
Thanks Knucklehead for the tips.
How many hours should this job take a skilled wrench?
Remove and replace: front gear housing - gear cover - associated gaskets and seals.
My guess is 6 hours.

If I remember right I think that was @ what warranty time was,but don't hold me to that. It may take a little longer maybe not as long.Like I said, the biggest concern is how long the cam has to be out.

Neverenuf is right,if you give it a couple degrees of timing it will make a big difference. Just remember to watch your temps pretty close. If you get in a hard pull it will warm up a little quicker. Good luck and post the pics.
 
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