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Winter Storage Questions

overhaulin

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 4, 2016
Messages
59
Location
OHIO
This is my first winter with my 655D, 4 cylinder Perkins, and I was wondering if I could get some recommendations for winter storage here in northeast Ohio. I am hoping to get the machine indoors before winter gets here, but if not it may have to sit outside under a tarp this year.

I have read about filling the fuel tanks to reduce condensation, including a fuel stabilizer, but what do I need to do about antifreeze levels or percentages. I don't know if this engine has freeze plugs, but I know its always a concern for cracking an automotive block.

Anything special with the hydraulics?

Thanks!!
 

Junkyard

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2016
Messages
3,643
Location
Claremore, OK
Occupation
Field Mechanic
Get an antifreeze tester and see what temp it's good down to. If it's 50/50 mix you should be good. Assuming the hydraulic oil is not more water than oil you should be ok. Make sure you run it a bit after you add stabilizer so it's all the way through the fuel system. Might change fuel filters if they haven't been done lately, at the very least drain the water separator. It shouldn't get cold enough for an oils to freeze but if there's a lot of water anywhere that could be bad. I'm sure the other guys will chime in with more stuff.

Junkyard
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,900
Location
WI
"Freeze plugs" are a misnomer, they're used in the casting process, not for keeping your engine from cracking when it freezes. Make sure you have 50/50 (or close where you're at) antifreeze concentration. If you don't know when it was changed, you could do that now, especially if you need to do a few more hours work, you could flush it with rain water until it runs clear, then add new antifreeze mixed with distilled water (as long as you pay attention to concentrate vs premixed).

Fuel stabilizer is for ethanol gas, the diesel should be fine over the winter. Fill the tank, drain any water, and shut off the tank valve if there is one, leave a note taped to the key so you remember in the spring.

Disconnect the battery and charge it up. If you bring the battery inside, then it will discharge faster in the warm temps so you'll have to charge it again every couple months.

The hydraulics should be fine. Park it away from tall grass and brush to keep the mice down, maybe leave some poison just in case.
 

overhaulin

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 4, 2016
Messages
59
Location
OHIO
Great info... thanks guys!

Its supposed to get into the high 40's this weekend so this will be a perfect time to button it up.
 

Former Wrench

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2014
Messages
474
Location
Montesano, WA
Occupation
Retired
In SE Alaska there are a lot of boats and heavy equipment that are left outside to winter. It is a rain forest here so moisture is an issue. A coat of moisture dispersant on exposed (or covered) metal helps fight rust and corrosion.
 

El Hombre

Senior Member
Joined
May 6, 2010
Messages
377
Location
SF Bay Area
You could change the engine oil and filter; diesel dumps more carbon and other junk in the oil than gas. Let the engine sit for the next 4 months with nice clean oil in it, instead of the yuck that is probably in there....
 

farmerlund

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
1,237
Location
North Dakota
Occupation
Farmer/ excavator
Not sure how cold it gets in your area. I try to get some no. 1 diesel fuel in most of my equipment before parking it. Around 50-50 mix. Just in case I need to move it during the winter. If your winter temps are above 15-20F than its not something for you to worry about.
 

overhaulin

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 4, 2016
Messages
59
Location
OHIO
Yea, I just put all new filters on the machine when I got it probably has less than 50 hours on them.

Temps here average in the 20s to 30s for the winter season.
 
Last edited:

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,900
Location
WI
Average only matters if you're planning to start it during the winter. If it's just going to sit, then the minimum temp is what you need the antifreeze prepared for. If you're going to change the antifreeze, use it an hour, drain the old stuff into a clean bucket, fill it with rain water, run half an hour, drain into another clean bucket, repeat until there's no sediment, the water will still dissolve some rust and have a tint to it, but I stop when there's no sediment, or until I run out of warm weather. Then you add the number of gallons of concentrate you need for your capacity, and fill the rest of the way with distilled water. You do that to take into account the water remaining that didn't drain.
 
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