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Why does my IR compressor shut off after 15-20 seconds?

Parts

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2016
Messages
202
Location
DMV Area
My IR 185 with a deere diesel will start and run for 10-20 seconds. Makes good strong air in no-time during this period. Machine only has 2000 hours on it and has had recent fluid/filters. Seems like RPM's drop ever so slowly and it stops. Doesn't matter if the air is open or closed. I checked the lift pump and its making solid pressure. Engine runs beautifully when it fires but then it shuts off. Holding the throttle by hand at a higher RPM does not save it from shutting off. It will still shut off. When I test the wire that goes to the fuel shutoff solenoid it had 12V while running. Seems like it should have more but it does show 12V - should that be showing 14.4V when running and maybe my problem is the alternator?

If you unplug the oil pressure switch on the engine it will not start.

Should I start by shorting out safety switches one by one? I am think I could put the harness wires together on the 2 wire safety switches until maybe one of them appears to the culprit?
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,923
Location
WI
So your injection pump is getting 12V running, and 12V while it drops RPM, and 12V while it dies? It's dying on it's own then, not being shut off by a safety switch. If the safety switch shut it off, it would be sudden, and no 12V to the injection pump. how old is the engine?

Then it sounds like the governor flex ring weight retainer falling apart. I've never seen one, but it's a common problem apparently. Take the overflow/return fitting off the top of the injection pump, so you see right in there, is that fitting plugged with coffee grounds? rig up a rubber/vinyl hose to a can if you don't want a mess of diesel all over. Start it up and see if it runs past 20 seconds. Contact thepumpguysc for directions to take the pump off and send it to him.

you can clean the fitting and run it a while but it will recur and get worse.
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,682
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Delmer is correct on the diagnostic path..
It sounds as if the flex ring is breaking up.. when it does, the pieces try to escape the pump thru the check ball fitting on top of the pump.. called a "return connector"..
U can remove it & run the machine to verify..
NOTE>> fuel WILL flow out of the hole.. u can temp. screw an OPEN FITTING in the r. connectors place for diagnostic purposes..
It sounds as if your alittle "new" to this so I'll be kind.. NO you cant just get a new return connector & that will solve your problem.. 99.9% of the time
The problem is INTERNAL to the pump & needs to be removed from the engine to be fixed properly..
U can also remove the side cover from the pump & hold a wad of paper towels under it & catch any & all debris that comes out..
IF they look like "mouse turds" or "coffee grounds".. the flex ring IS your problem..
All this info is given w/ the assumptions that this is a "mechanical" fuel system & not a hi pressure common rail..
U can contact me direct if u need further guidance.. just click on my screen name for contact instructions.
 

Parts

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2016
Messages
202
Location
DMV Area
Ok all good information. I am going to check to see if I get coffee grounds tomorrow. If so we'll get that pump off and I'll be in touch
 

rdr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2007
Messages
47
Location
usa
My IR 185 with a deere diesel will start and run for 10-20 seconds. Makes good strong air in no-time during this period. Machine only has 2000 hours on it and has had recent fluid/filters. Seems like RPM's drop ever so slowly and it stops. Doesn't matter if the air is open or closed. I checked the lift pump and its making solid pressure. Engine runs beautifully when it fires but then it shuts off. Holding the throttle by hand at a higher RPM does not save it from shutting off. It will still shut off. When I test the wire that goes to the fuel shutoff solenoid it had 12V while running. Seems like it should have more but it does show 12V - should that be showing 14.4V when running and maybe my problem is the alternator?

If you unplug the oil pressure switch on the engine it will not start.

Should I start by shorting out safety switches one by one? I am think I could put the harness wires together on the 2 wire safety switches until maybe one of them appears to the culprit?
had one do this apx 2000 hr alternator was bad it has a wire that grounds when it is charging . part of the murfy system
 
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