What steel to use for bucket pins?

[bmich]

I know their is many articles on what type of steel to use to make bucket pins. Need to make some bucket pins for a Deere 310SL. OEM prices are nuts and jobber prices not much better with no idea what quality of pin I would end up with.
I can get cold roll steel for $25/ft vs paying $150 to $200 per pin. Just not sure if mild steel is the proper steel for this application and yet 1045 is probably over kill.
These articles all talk about pins and bushings where the bucket mounts into the stick or arm and goes thru a bushing that is constantly rotating. I get that. The buckets pins I'm inquiring about are stationary ones that connect the bucket ears to the coupler link / grab on the stick. No bushings, no rotation and in some cases no precision as some couplers have quite a bit of slop in them. I don't think I would need an extremely hard steel as then I would be wearing out the coupler rather than the pin. JUst need a strong pin that won't break, bend or prematurely wear out.

 

[skyking1]

The typical process is to machine the pin and then induction harden it. I had one made for 120 recently.

 

[Billrog]

I've made up all my bucket pins from cylinder rods I've acquired over the yrs. ( 1.25" I think )

 

[berky]

You get what you pay for, but that doesn’t mean there are not alternate ways to get there. I have been making pins for all my equipment over the last 30 years. Don’t even think about using a low carbon steel. The minimum in my opinion would we 4140 or 4340 pre hardened rod if you have minimum equipment, but I usually use 8620. Do you have any machinery to fab the pin? You will need to buy rod that is oversized, put centers in each end and machine it to length and about 0.015 oversize. Harden and temper material and then OD grind or hard turn it to finish size. Now you know why they cost so damn much!

 

[digger doug]

4140-ht here as well.

 

[kshansen]

I may be way out of line but my first question is what is the application you have this 310SL for in the first place?

I mean is this a machine that will be use once in a while to dig a hole or two on your five acre "Hobby Farm"? Or is this a machine that will be doing 20 plus hours work a week for landscaping or putting in leech lines for septic systems and such?

If the former, very little and light work then anything would probably get you by. But if the latter, hundreds of hours of hard work then I would be thinking either OEM or some good aftermarket pins would be the go to plan.

Also while I'm not familiar with the 310SL I'm guessing there are bushings these pins go through so if pins are bad I would expect the bushings are in the same condition and need replacing. Also the bores for the pins and bushings also may need work.

 

[skyking1]

You get what you pay for, but that doesn’t mean there are not alternate ways to get there. I have been making pins for all my equipment over the last 30 years. Don’t even think about using a low carbon steel. The minimum in my opinion would we 4140 or 4340 pre hardened rod if you have minimum equipment, but I usually use 8620. Do you have any machinery to fab the pin? You will need to buy rod that is oversized, put centers in each end and machine it to length and about 0.015 oversize. Harden and temper material and then OD grind or hard turn it to finish size. Now you know why they cost so damn much!

thank you @berky for filling in the details.

 

[funwithfuel]

Are you using a quick coupler or pinning direct to the stick. Different animals, different traps.

 

[edgephoto]

How often do you need to replace pins? My thought is unless you have a full machine shop to make them just buy pins and move on. I would expect pins to last years.

Just my two cents......

 

[Ricardo Cotte]

Hello all,

I have made quite some research on this for my 310SJ which I assume has the same type of pins. 55 & 50 mm.

As some of you have said, if you don't have the equipment to produce these, you're better off buying them aftermarket if OEM gets you off the rails. I have gotten fair prices online from a place called Complete Tractor. Under $100 with free shipping. Last one I got was made in Turkey and shows decent craftsmanship.

Also, several vendors on eBay and Amazon offer these. If your use is for a "hobby farm" like kshansen mentioned above ( and my kind of work too ), these aftermarket pins are more than enough. Just my 2¢

 

[terex herder]

I have made several out of cylinder shaft, but you have to make sure the shaft is induction hardened chrome plated, not just chrome plated. Metric pins are more difficult, as most all my shafting is inch sized.

1045 is underkill. Pre heat treated 4xxx is the minimum material spec for pins.

 

[Volvomad]

If it is for a pin grabber, I can not see the need for any hardening or precision fitting. I just go to my local machine shop and get bar stock. I do not ask the grade but it deffinitly aint hardened. Never broke or bent one .It is better than mild steel but if the coupler and bucket are a good fit side to side, It will be hard to bend any half decent bar. I will probably be shot for this.

 

[Georgia Iron]

I know everyone will say I am crazy, but I have used some cold rolled steel for pins, I just keep them well greased and they have done me fine. For the price of a 20' bar you get a lot of steel for pins. I made a few extra mini excavator pins (12k machine size) pins and I have not thrown out the first set, yet. I just grease them 3 times a day. I switch buckets and needed a longer set of pins and so far so good.

Also I have a skid steer grapple bucket it gets opened and closed a lot, I am willing to bet that they are basic mild steel.

If your application would involve hammering or pounding into super hard materials just buy the factory pins. I dig in relatively softer type soils.