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What are you doing to your hoe?

NH575E

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2015
Messages
1,188
Location
North, FL
Occupation
Retired Machinist
Yeah I got away with mig welding one of my stabilizer lines but the crack on it was right at the face seal flange. That's been holding 4 or 5 years. Even though I removed and flushed out this line there is no way to get all the oil contamination out so I figured brazing the surface would be easier than O/A welding and trying to penetrate the metal. I put a fairly thick layer of brass on and let it cool nice and slow.

I called all the local hydraulic shops and none were building hard lines.

If it breaks again the next step will be ordering a piece of tube, face seal flanges, and a bender to try and duplicate a new one. I could buy all that for about half the cost of the unobtainable line and have the bender left over.

Or I could replace it with a hose but that would make for less flow because it would need to be half the inside diameter to fit in the confined area at the base of the boom. May not be a bad thing to slow down the flow. :)
Some of the hard line anchor straps were missing on my machine when I got it. A couple of lines were gouged up from unsecured movement. The rivet nuts to hold the straps were missing and the only place I found them was a China dealer on eBay. The holes in the boom are 11mm hex shape and the rivet nuts are 8mm with a 11mm hex base. It took several weeks to get them from China. At least they are easy to set without a tool. The hex base holds them so all it takes is an 8mm bolt and flat washer to secure them.

One of the crowd cylinder lines cracked on the outside. The line is listed at $550 and showing backorder. I Mig welded the crack and it sealed good enough for cylinder travel but as soon as I applied digging pressure it leaked again. The damage was less obvious after I cleaned it up so put a layer of brass over the whole section with a flux coated brazing rod. After brazing it didn’t leak and stayed dry even after digging and tugging on a stump some. I think the leak is fixed for now. BUT the rivet nut for the strap holding the line near the pivot popped out. I don’t think I put enough tightness on it when I set it so I have to replace that again tomorrow. I may loosen them all and tighten all the replaced rivet nuts in the boom a little batter if that one will tighten all the way down without breaking..

Every time I removed the line strap anchor bolts another one of the factory rivet nuts would break off and fall in the boom. I would have to chisel the top crimped part out and set a new one. If you have a New Holland you probably want to source some of these to have handy. I don’t know how common they would be with any other brand?

Edit: Found some of these on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bronze-Carbon-Hexagonal-Nutserts/dp/B01MS63NZ7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2ROKGQA8KMYJA&keywords=8mm+hex+rivet+nut&qid=1656384423&sprefix=8mm+hex+rivet+nut,aps,260&sr=8-3

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View attachment 262693

Thought I would follow up on this old thread. My brazing job held well enough to get some work done but had a fine crack that would spray some oil mist under heavy load. That started to worsen last week so I started shopping around again on Monday. I found both a local shop that would build the line and DOH!, a salvage yard that had a good used one 40 miles away.

The shop said they would build it for $200 or less and the salvage yard wanted a $110 for a used one. NH wants almost $600 for a new one. I went with the used line and no more spraying oil.

Both machines at the salvage yard were burned units and both lines had some rust but the one I bought was minimal. I sanded it all down and painted it with cold galvanized paint.

I had bought a loader frame for my JD years ago from the same yard but for some reason didn't think to call them about backhoe parts. They have a surprising number of burned tractors. The tractor I bought my loader frame off of was burnt. The parts puller guy said machine fires were a common result of mouse and rat damage.
 

Swetz

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2019
Messages
1,375
Location
NJ/PA
Occupation
Electric & Gas Company
Well, my hoe has mostly been sitting due to the mud everywhere (ground isnt frozen and snow/rain).

Anyhow, the right front tire has been leaking through the cracks in the sidewalls for some time. So, I figured it was time to fix it...no, not replace the 1999 vintage tire...LOL

I borrowed 2 irons from a tire machine, coupled with a couple of prybars and it came rite off :)

I put the tube in, anp reinstalled the bead. It turns out that the vise-grip (original USA version) was a real asset! The tire was back on the wheel in no time. Aired it up, and installed it. Now it is sweet...ready for more work when it dries out.


20240216_164726.jpg
20240216_172130.jpg
 

T-town

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2014
Messages
354
Location
NE PA
Occupation
retired !
Great job Swetz!!
My fronts are holding up great by my rears have taken it hard due to the rocks.... they have tubes, but I needed to get a slow leak fixed up this past fall.... the 'tire store' rates have gone up quite a bit though... and the price of a tube too.
But I would not want to try and work with the 'big' ones.
 

Swetz

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2019
Messages
1,375
Location
NJ/PA
Occupation
Electric & Gas Company
the 'tire store' rates have gone up quite a bit though... and the price of a tube too.
But I would not want to try and work with the 'big' ones.
Dont blame you....too heavy!

I got the tube from walmart online. It was $50.00 all in. It was the best price I could find for a tube that was listed as heavy duty. The one on Scamazon showed a real light load rating. I figure it wasnt correct, but wouldnt take a chance on it. Wasnt any cheaper either.

One of my other tractors (a project tractor) has a bad rear tire. I plan to change it, but not until the machine is working correctly, cuz, yea, they have gone thru the roof...must be cuz of the oil used to make them??
 

Welder Dave

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Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,549
Location
Canada
I don't think the blue handled vise grips are original made in USA models. They're still good but made in China. The sad thing is they still sell for the premium price of the USA made versions. One way to tell is the USA models used a roll pin for the inner bar pivot rather than a rivet. A lot of people were really pi$$ed off they took an iconic US product and moved production to China.
 

Swetz

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2019
Messages
1,375
Location
NJ/PA
Occupation
Electric & Gas Company
I don't think the blue handled vise grips are original made in USA models.
Well, I purchased these, in a set, new in 2001. Vise grip didnt sell out to the Chinese until later. These are the origional Irwin vintage.

The new version these is made in Tiawan.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,549
Location
Canada
Rubbermaid Newel? bought out Peterson manufacturing and moved production to China. It should be false advertising to still use "original" on the packaging and/or the pliers.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,549
Location
Canada
Those must be right before production moved to China. I worked at a place that had some new old stock with standard handles and some with the covers. The ones with covers said made in China. I can't remember the date on the package but it was early 90's if I recall. Wouldn't be surprised if the covers were added to make the transition to China production less noticeable.
 
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