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Volvo LC60E Trans Problem

Discussion in 'Wheel Loaders' started by Jock, Nov 11, 2018.

  1. Jock

    Jock Well-Known Member

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    Gday

    I'll be having a look at a Volvo loader with a transmission fault in the next couple of days, not 100% sure of the issue yet but the operators tell me it's lost a couple of gears and they found ants in the ECUs

    The ECUs have since been replaced but the fault continues. Are there any common transmission problems with these loaders?

    Suspecting maybe a faulty solenoid, as it's lost two not one gear

    Thanks

    Jock
     
  2. funwithfuel

    funwithfuel Senior Member

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    Suspect 2nd and fwd . Those are the 2 most commonly used. Remember, 1-4 are the same solenoids used in fwd and rvrs. Range is the same, direction changes with 2 other solenoids. If you pull the back panel , look for connector TA. You can ohm out all 6 solenoids from there with the service manual
     
  3. Jock

    Jock Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the reply, just had a chat with the operator. Turns out it’s 3rd and 4th

    Each time theyre selected on the column it throws a fault on the dash. Will have to get the manual and have a read. Still drives fine in 1st and 2nd
     
  4. laycobeau

    laycobeau Well-Known Member

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    If it only has 1st and 2nd in reverse also check the speed sensor. What is the fault code?
     
  5. Jock

    Jock Well-Known Member

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    Had a look at it today, it has first reverse and first and second in forward. No other gears. The dash is continually blinking reduced computer function, will find myself a book and have a read

    Reckon it's more than something simple, seems to be some kind of limp mode?
     
  6. funwithfuel

    funwithfuel Senior Member

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    Reduced computer functions usually indicates a fault in the network. If you could remove the screws for the instrument panel and pull it forward towards you, you will see a single plug in the back that looks like its looped back into itself. This is a terminating resistor. Unplug and measure resistance pin to pin. Should be approximately 120 ohms. Then measure harness end, should be the same. Plugged in and measuring with back probes should show 60 ohms.
    While you have the instrument panel out, look at the tag with the part number. If it ends in anything but 911 you may want to consult your dealer. The first 2 generation of those were problematic.
    Good luck
     
  7. Jock

    Jock Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the reply, will check it out this month

    The machine is 1000km away and I only get there once a month so hopefully I can get it fixed this coming month. I'll be armed with three reprogrammed ECUs and some more time. Will run those tests on the instrument panel and check it out

    Do you think it would it be worthwhile taking an instrument panel?

    Regards

    Jock
     
  8. funwithfuel

    funwithfuel Senior Member

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    If you have access to a programmed ECU, yes. I would take one with me. Instrument panel is key to powering other ECUs up. I-ECU powers up off key and sends signal to 15EA to power up other side of V-ECU. Also look at harness where it passes through bulkhead to engine ECU . Disassemble ECU connector carefully. You want to check for chafed wires inside manifold. Twisted pairs short in tight spaces with vibrations. You'll have to manually separate the pairs by hand to see inside the twist. You'll see what I me as n when you get in there. Grey/brown green/yellow. Check them closely. If you have schematics for the machine, look closely at diode on circuit board for delayed shutdown. Its critical for maintaining software integrity. Another common point of failure

    Good luck, don't forget to share what you find.

    One last thing, you are working on an L60E , correct? Wheel loader?
     
  9. Jock

    Jock Well-Known Member

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    No worries I'll get an instrument panel and wiring schematic

    Will let you know the outcome

    Thanks for the info so far

    Yeh L60E, mistyped the C
     
  10. Dane86

    Dane86 New Member

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    hey there everyone just looking for schematic for a L60E. its shift on its own while sitting in idle, you can watch through monitor, will occasionally drive ok then gets all crazy.
    shifts great otherwise.
     
  11. funwithfuel

    funwithfuel Senior Member

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    Hi Dane86
    Please open a new thread. You will not get any response from latching onto an already discussed open thread.
     
  12. Jock

    Jock Well-Known Member

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    Gday funwithfuel

    Got it fixed today.

    I worked through the machine and it was replacing the last ECU that fixed it. Along the way I found numerous other problems I thought might've been it. Bad earth on the little buzz rail just inside the cab door, battery isolater seized up solid and battery terminals loose and arcing. Fixed all that, checked the ohms you mentioned on the terminating resistor. All good there. Checked the loom inside the cab

    Replaced the dash display, replaced the ECU behind the seat. Tidied all the earths I could find. Finally removed the last ECU above the radiator, when I did I noticed it had an extra earth wire running to the ECU. Upon removal I found a small factory earth strap that runs from ECU to behind the mount on the top right bolt. The join between that and the body was rusted solid. I cleaned it up, fitted the new ECU and all good.

    Tomorrow I'm going to clean up that rusted joint on the old ECU and refit that ECU to see if that was the problem all along. Will keep you posted

    Thanks for all your help
     
    funwithfuel and 512high like this.
  13. funwithfuel

    funwithfuel Senior Member

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    That's good to hear , that you got her up n running. That last ECU was engine ECU. If the engine ran and you had throttle control, odds are the ECU was not the issue. Since you are going to re-fit that one, I would disassemble the ECU connector. If you unbolt the 2 u-shaped pieces surrounding the pass-through on the bulkhead, you can pull the cabling through to the engine compartment side giving you more room to work.
    Take your time, study how it looks. Take pictures etc. It has to come apart carefully. Some plastic will undoubtedly break. You need to get inside there and verify that your network is not shorted. You may have disturbed the wiring unplugging the old and connecting the new that it broke contact. This is where guys say, "what else could it be, my whole network is new, now I have this intermittent fault? "When I had you measuring the resistor and harness , that was the easy one for communications. That's the J1708. If that was good, we have to look at J1939. Think of one as a slow link that the tech can communicate with the machine on. The other is the fast link shared only by the three computers. The most common point of failure is right at those tight bends where you were.
    IIRC, that additional ground was a suggested field repair in a very old service bulletin.
    If you have schematics available, you are looking for CAN HI &CAN LOW. Good luck, I know what a challenge this can be .
     
    512high likes this.
  14. Jock

    Jock Well-Known Member

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    Gday

    Refitted the old ECU and problem reoccurred. Fitted new ECU and machine all good

    The dealer that supplied the parts did say all three needed to be replaced together as the software on the old ECUs was too old for the laptop to even recognise them

    Thanks for all your help

    Jock
     
  15. funwithfuel

    funwithfuel Senior Member

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    Well, it's fixed and working. That's what matters. I call shenanigans on the dealer. Unless there is a network failure, ECUs will report on vehicle identification test. Odds are, tech didn't know enough to back out, close out and open a new job card.
    Glad you got it handled.