Unlike the 4000W, with the 4100W’s VICON the hoist levers themselves are the levers that allow the torque to be applied to the clutches, which engage the drum surface. At about 6% engagement, [the first felt detent as you pull it back] there’s not enough torque to even lift the ball. The ball will lower slowly with the brake pedal off. Add some more stroke, pulling the hoist lever further back, or more rpm, for more torque, and the ball will stop and begin to go up. So at the same time that the stroke of the lever is affecting the amount of torque applied for lifting/lowering and or holding a load, so is the rpm too. For example, at say 25% stroke and at an idle a 4100W might lift a 2 yard bucket of mud, but at the same stroke and more rpm it’ll lift a lot more than that. Holding the rpm steady while feathering the hoist lever to various positions, gives you great control over the load as far as wether it goes up, down or stays still. I added a strip of duct tape to my consoles along side the slots between the 2 hoist levers. I marked along it the percentages of throw, from the first detent at 6% to 100%, and I learned as the work progressed how much stroke was needed to lift certain loads based on an rpm of my choosing. I found it easier to vary the hoist lever's movements more smoothly and more controlled than to vary the throttle speeds. A sudden rise or drop in rpm can really have a unfavorable affect on the load if you’re not ready to readjust the lever to compensate for that. In a lift I was sure about, as far as how much rpm was needed, I could set the throttle a bit above that mark, and then feather the hoist lever to make that load rise, or stop without holding it with the brakes, or lower slowly. For holding a load still for more than a few seconds the proper rpm, but using '100% stroke' is very helpful too, so you can use the free right hand to operate the boom lever. Many ways to work it to your personal preferences! For lowering loads a long distance I’ll set the rpm at a speed that will allow lowering at a safe speed with the lever at 'full 100% engagement', then use the right hand again to keep the boom point where I want it and know that the load lowering speed is steady and the clutch lever is not going to accidentally fly back to neutral.