update john deere 310 sg power shift issues

[stendori]

well i ordered a new shifter thinking after advice from a member that it would fix my problem. the different voltage test a member had me try pointed to this being the issue, but it didn't fix it. what the new part did was to take away my reverse that I had before in 1st(now none in any gear) and my forward 1st(which I had before) and 2nd doesn't work either but now i have 3rd and 4th in forward only! as before, it seems to want to go into a gear but nothing. any more ideas?

 

[mg2361]

Sorry to hear the FNR was not the issue. I would check your timer relay. Usually when that goes bad you loose all your gears, but I guess it is possible that it could intermittently give some gear engagement. Worth a look. At the relay (behind the instrument panel) jump the two Tan wires (terminals 1 and 6) to see if your transmission works.

 

[stendori]

i will give it a try. could it be possible that the new fnr switch is the incorrect one or defective? it is the same part no# AT182520 i was told to get and i double checked it in the JD parts manual. the only difference is the new one has an added plastic detent bar where the shifter would rest in. thanks you

 

[stendori]

if its the relay attached to the plastic fender well, jumping the 2 tans didn't do anything. i can hear it click every time it goes back into neural so I'm assuming it's working. out my old one back in to at least have 1st in D&R. could it be any wiring under the machine that i can access maybe to see if something got broke or bad connection as im going through some bad terrain.

 

[mg2361]

could it be any wiring under the machine that i can access maybe to see if something got broke or bad connection as im going through some bad terrain

Yes. Remove the two floor boards in front of your seat and under the brake pedals. The wiring likes to rub through where it passes over the top of the transmission control valve. Looking down from the seat it would be on the right side top of the transmission. Check there. That same wiring goes to a Cannon plug. Near that plug I believe the wiring likes to rub through on either the throttle cable or hydraulic hoses the run under there.

Also near the same location (above trans control valve?) is a bunch of diodes hanging from the harness. Make sure those diodes are good and the wiring did not pull out of them. there is another set of diodes near the hydraulic filter on the left side of the tractor for the transmission as well. Same thing, make sure they are all good and that the wiring did not pull out of them.

To test a diode your digital meter should have a diode symbol like below. Remove the diode and with the meter set to test diodes check with you leads one way, then reverse the leads and check again. In one direction in should read 0L, and in the other direction it should read 0.5.

 

[stendori]

checked under the floor boards and found no chaffing at all believe it not to my surprise they all look good. sorry to say my older tester does not have a diode checker but they look nice and tight. it seems funny that when going into reverse it acts like it wants to half engage and there is nothing at all in forward. just a thought, but do you suppose where this fnr switch i got which was aftermarket i have since learned(damn ebay) could be the wrong one for my machine even though it said it was pn#AT182520? it just seems strange to me that i would go from having 1st in both F & R then to loosing both and only having 3rd-4th in forward. again thanks for all your suggestions.

 

[mg2361]

First, I would NEVER, EVER buy parts off eBay. Lets bench test both FNR's. With the red lead on your meter (set to the ohms scale), place your red lead on terminal A of the 4 pin connector. Black lead onto B, C and D as follows. You should have continuity from A-D in neutral, A-B in forward and A-C in reverse. There should also be continuity from A of the 4 pin connector to C in the 5 pin connector in reverse. Now place your red lead on pin E of the 5 pin connector and the black lead on pins A, B, C and D as follows. In 1st you should have continuity from pin E to pins A,C and D. 2nd, pin E to pins A, B and C. 3rd, pin E to pins B, C and D. 4th, pin E to pins B and D. See if that is what you have.

 

[Vetech63]

First, I would NEVER, EVER buy parts off eBay

AMEN brother!

 

[JL Sargent]

I have had really good luck buying all kinds of car parts off Ebay. JD parts I usually stick with Deere except when JD has simply repackaged the part (STEFA seals used in ZF trans for example). Like my JD parts manager told me one day when I complained about finding the exact same part for pennies on the dollar. "If it's just a repackaged part, well then". Now I suspect that chinese shifter is good. If not, you can return it with Ebay's liberal return policy.

 

[stendori]

I have had really good luck buying all kinds of car parts off Ebay. JD parts I usually stick with Deere except when JD has simply repackaged the part (STEFA seals used in ZF trans for example). Like my JD parts manager told me one day when I complained about finding the exact same part for pennies on the dollar. "If it's just a repackaged part, well then". Now I suspect that chinese shifter is good. If not, you can return it with Ebay's liberal return policy.

already re-turned it lol

 

[stendori]

First, I would NEVER, EVER buy parts off eBay. Lets bench test both FNR's. With the red lead on your meter (set to the ohms scale), place your red lead on terminal A of the 4 pin connector. Black lead onto B, C and D as follows. You should have continuity from A-D in neutral, A-B in forward and A-C in reverse. There should also be continuity from A of the 4 pin connector to C in the 5 pin connector in reverse. Now place your red lead on pin E of the 5 pin connector and the black lead on pins A, B, C and D as follows. In 1st you should have continuity from pin E to pins A,C and D. 2nd, pin E to pins A, B and C. 3rd, pin E to pins B, C and D. 4th, pin E to pins B and D. See if that is what you have.

A in the four pin to C in the five pin in Reverse - no continuity

In 1st you should have continuity from pin E to pins A,C and D. C no continuity

2nd, pin E to pins A, B and C. A only one with continuity

3rd, pin E to pins B, C and D. Only D had continuity

4th, pin E to pins B and D. D no continuity

 

[mg2361]

Still looks like a bad FNR. Perform same tests on a new one before installing.

 

[stendori]

so after talking to the JD dealer they suggested i switch out the 2 solenoids on the transmission to ty to see if any thing changes before i buy the fnr switch. what is your thought? i did order a new f-n-r switch but i can not return it once i open the box(understandable) so i just want tpo be sure before the $700 part. he wants to send a tech to my house, but i like your ideas better lol thanks again for the help.

 

[Vetech63]

so i just want tpo be sure before the $700 part.

If you want to be real sure, you need to have a JD tech look at it. I understand you want to save as much money as you can, but if you don't know how the system works you will chase your tail and buy unnecessary parts to the point of it driving you insane. Too many times have I got on a machine that had multiple expensive parts changed out to correct an issue........only to find a bad wire or corroded electrical connection. Maybe your $700 would be better spent on the tech coming out.

 

[stendori]

thank you mg2361. you were 100% correct in your diagnosis. new fnr fixed my problem. sorry to have been a pain. thanks for input vetech63

 

[Vetech63]

thank you mg2361. you were 100% correct in your diagnosis. new fnr fixed my problem. sorry to have been a pain. thanks for input vetech63

Did you learn a lesson about buying those type of parts on Ebay/Amazon?

 

[stendori]

not when i thought it was an oem part to begin with! no lesson to learn when it's a false advertisement. hence why i got my money back.