Turning pins and bushings

[inyati13]

I have a Cat D3G 2005 LGP with SALT track. The Whayne undercarriage technician did a free undercarriage evaluation for me. My pins and bushings have been turned. Question is, when the pins and bushings are removed from the links, turned and the track is reassembled, are the pins relubricated and resealed? I assume they are relubricated and resealed as original. Please confirm. Follow on question. The bushings are now showing about 25 % wear and the technician said the links will wear out before the pins and bushings. At that time, I will need a new chain and should replace the sprocket segments at the same time as it would make sense to have new spocket for the new chain. Is the new chain aligned with the sprocket? I have never heard this discussed so am not sure I am asking the question properly. But I assume the new chain needs to align with the rest of the undercarriage.

 

[OldandWorn]

Is the new chain aligned with the sprocket? I have never heard this discussed so am not sure I am asking the question properly. But I assume the new chain needs to align with the rest of the undercarriage.

Well, it's more of the fact that running a worn sprocket on a new track (or vice versa) will wear the new components out faster because they don't mesh quite right anymore and will exert more pressure on a smaller area.

I'm interested in hearing the comments about the lubed pins also cause I have the same situation with my machine.

 

[QuickTrax]

You have two options for turning pins and bushings in salt (sealed and lubricated) chains. A grease turn or a true lubricated turn. The grease turn is pressing the chains apart and greasing the pins and bushings then pressing the chain back together reusing the old seals. The true lubricated turn is pressing the chains apart and replacing all of the seals then turning the pins and bushings and pressing the chains back together. A true lubricated turn requires a vacuum ran on each pin and bushing and checking for leaks. If no leaks, install oil back into each joint then equalize the pressure back off then insert a new plastic plug back into the pin. Some chains don't have a plastic plugs. Some just have a rubber stopper that we stick a needle through to run a vacuum and oil. A good rule of thumb is when you perform a pin and bushing turn, replacement, or new chains, always install new sprockets. The reason for this is the old sprockets wear with the pins and bushings. For example, installing new chains with old sprockets throws the pitch off. The pitch is the center of one pin to the center of the next.
I hope this helps,
QuickTrax

 

[OldandWorn]

Good information to know QuikTrax. To hijack the thread for a moment, I just bought a machine with Berco SALT. The bushings have been turned and the new surface shows just a little wear. I don't see oil leaking out of any pins and the machine coasts very freely. Is there any "lube checking" maintenance that I need to perform?

Is it normal that on one side of the machine the pin plugs are on the outside and on the other track the plugs are facing towards the machine?

 

[Greg]

I have heard of doing a "wet turn" where everything is put back as it was new as in relubricated and also a "dry turn" where it is not relubed when done. You have to make sure who ever is doing the work knows exactly how you want it done.

New sprockets with new rail is the way to go. I always do bottom rollers at the same time as if the existing are worn they will go to work on the rail quickly too.

I also had an undercarriage guy tell me that turning pins and bushings on small machines is not worth the expense. That the rail will not last as long as the turned pins and bushings. I get about 3,700 to 4,000 hours on D3 rail and have not turned pins and bushings up to this point.

 

[QuickTrax]

OldandWorn, The reasons the plugs are on the outside on one chain and the inside on the other is because both chains came off the press the same time and the press operator continued installing the pins with the plugs on the same side which is correct. If a machine has plugs on the outside on each chain, it is likely one chain is on backwards. A salt chain should require no oiling until a pin and bushing turn is performed.

Greg, We have customers who like to turn the pins and bushings and some who run them until destruction. Majority of people we deal with turn pins and bushings.
I believe it is worth turning salt chains. We do turn dry chains but the problem with turning dry chains is the internal wear will still be a problem.

Thanks, QuickTrax

 

[3rdGenDslWrench]

We usually go about 2000 hours before a pin and bushing turn is needed on dozers/loaders. The first pin and bushing turn we would send the tracks out to get turned, sometimes grease...sometimes oil lube. And throw a set of segments on that way everything is new. Then after another 2000 hours the pins and bushings at that time were just about done as well as the rest of the U/C so we called it a "run out" which we ran the machine till she wouldnt pull no more. Then it got EVERTHING brand new

 

[inyati13]

Thanks to all. QuickTrax demonstrates again that he is on his game.

 

[OldandWorn]

Thanks for the education QuickTrax

 

[Construct'O]

Alot of the time if the tracks are (s+l) you can have dry pins from seal letting oil leak undetected.So when you go to turn the pins and bushing it can get expensive too do if you want to go back too (s+l) turn because you have too replace the bad pins and bushing.So the bennfit of the turn is lost.

For me i run my tracks out to destruction.Mainly because of the soil type here the bushing wear isn't a real problem.The rail height get run out and the dry pins have more of a play too time frame for my area.Not sandy,more wet clay,black dirt, and mud !

The soil type and how you operate your machine will depend on what option works for you.High speeds and sandy soil cause shorter live of your track system.Don't like the muddy condition ,but does help on wear of the tracks except if you don't clean your tracks often.Mostly your carrier rollers.Different area have different wore patterns!

 

[inyati13]

Construct'O, you made me think of another subject that probably deserves a new thread - that is cleaning the undercarriage. We also have clay soils here in KY. It can set up like concrete. When dozing in a wet area and things get sticky, the clay can pack in around the chain. When it dries the chain is not what it was. I mean the area above the bushing is packed tight by the sprocket. All the openings in the links are packed. When it dries, the chain becomes more solid than it was. I have noticed that when the chain is clean, I can walk to the side of my machine and when I raise the track, it is quite flexible. When it is packed with clay it is ridgid. The tension on the track must be affected. I frequently clean my chain but it is a 2 hour job. How do most people deal with this and what do they use to clean the chain? I use a mallet and large screw driver. I am planning on a power washer.

 

[Greg]

QuikTrax,

I only do this on small machine. D7's and D8's, that is another thing.

 

[MrKomatsu]

Dang Quicktrax....u sho know ur stuff.............................