track roller

[max s]

Hi, just wondering what you guys put on bolts threads when installing new track roller, anti-seize compound, red loctite or something else?

 

[lantraxco]

I always use anti-seize, I have never, ever, seen a roller bolt come loose if properly tightened, they're a lot more likely to corrode in and snap off when you need to take them out.

:IMO

 

[tctractors]

Before the Copper Slip Era the common thing I had to use was Series 3 engine oil mixed with Flowers of Sulphur, this made a nasty paste that seemed to work well, the other jollop that I had to use was black stinking stuff called Stockholm Tar, this stuff managed to get everywhere, if you were daft enough to get any on your hands or clothing it would take days to get free of the smell and stains, so when you brush on your anti seize (Copper Slip) to the roller bolts revel in its easy use, Max the tightening of the bolts correctly will make the job a good task all ways.
best of luck tctractors

 

[Richardjw~]

I had to use was black stinking stuff called Stockholm Tar,

hahaha...yes, had that stuff around the farm, father used to put it on belts to stop them slipping (1950s/60s)....like you say it sticks like the proverbial to a blanket~!

 

[Scrub Puller]

Yair . . .

max s

Good advise above but an equally important part of ongoing roller and rock-guard maintenance is in making sure the bolts are the "right" length . . . and that won't be the length as supplied from the manufacturer.

They don't give a damn and the bolts will project though the mounting blocks . . . you need to carefully measure and cut bolts off to exact length minus a thread or two. This prevents rust and corrosion building up and spalling the tread when backing out.

A bit of time spent at assembly can save hours or days when (say) doing a full cap and soles.

Cheers.

 

[repowerguy]

I'll second Lantraxco, don't use loctite of any color. anti-seize only and a good breaker bar will insure they don't come out. I have broke many taking them out[no anti-seize],but have never seen one back out.

 

[willie59]

And if you're re-using the old bolts, be sure to clean them good with a wire brush wheel on a bench grinder, just don't forget the safety glasses. I think track rollers hold tight from both the proper bolt torque and that the hole the bolt fits in is a fairly tight fit, minimal clearance. Clean the bolt shank good and give it a thin film coat of Never Seize with your fingers, don't need a heavy slobber on the shank, just a thin coat to prevent corrosion.

 

[RBMcCloskey]

I have found the best to use is silicone caulk on the threads, it prevents water from penetrating the threads and causing oxidation, that is rust.
Second, make sure the bolts DO NOT project past the track frame and apply silicone into the void from the end bolt to the top of the track frame.
Make sure you torque the bolts to the proper value.

 

[JD955SC]

We use standard copper or nickle based antiseize and torque the bolts per specification. Never had a problem this way.

I did have one instance where I was supplied bolts (I did not order the parts) that were SAE when they were supposed to be metric, so double check what you are putting on and make sure they are right. The fit was close enough that they bolted up and torqued just like they were the correct ones but would have come loose in service.

 

[max s]

Thanks guys for the inputs. I actually asked this question because we had a debate at the shop about which one is better (we have always used antiseize) after we changed the first set of rollers on a Volvo 330 excavator.The bolts had red loctite on them and they came out fairly easy. My thoughts is that not only the loctite reduce the risk of loosening, it also seals the threads and prevent rust. Of course, with either of these options torque tightening is mandatory!

 

[wornout wrench]

Anti-Sieze
We have more problem with broken bolts then coming loose.
Trying to get those broken bolts out is bad enough with out having to fight the locktite.