Track Loader Idler Assembly

[BlkAngusMan]

Does Anyone out there know howto tell me how to remove a track off of a fl14c track loader without killing myself? I need to replace teh Idler assembly.:Banghead

I have to reply to 3 posts before i can post a new thread. New User!

 

[BlkAngusMan]

I need to replace an idler assembly on my fl14b fiat allis on the farm and dont have a clue where to start! How do i remove the track without killing myself?

 

[Deas Plant]

Idler Removal.

Hi, BlkAngusMan.
Firstly, welcome to the forum.

Re removing the idler assembly: The FIRST move is to release the track adjustment so the that it is all the way back and the track is as slack as it can be. This step is necessary to ensure that there is no tension on the track chain or recoil assembly and to make it easier for re-assembly.

Now, I don't know if your track has bolt-up master links -which make it really easy - or a master pin which has to be driven out and can be a little more difficult but the track must be 'broken' and laid out fore and aft of the tractor.
once the track is 'broken', the idler can be removed safely, always assuming that you take due care to keep your fingers and toes out of harm's way.

It has been a LOOOONNG time since I had anything to do with either FL14's or BD14's but I am pretty sure that the idler itself unbolts from the yoke assembly and will then simply roll out along the track chain with the mounting blocks still on the ends of the axle shaft. This whole process is usually much easier if it is performed on a firm level floor, ie., concrete but that does not preclude doing it in the 'Shady Tree Workshop". Just get it as smooth and level as possible.

Happy repairing.

 

[Countryboy]

Welcome to HEF BlkAngusMan! :drinkup

 

[Countryboy]

Deas and BlkAngusMan, I moved yalls posts to this thread, from Construct'O's "Tree Clearing Day" thread, so as not to side track it.

 

[Deas Plant]

Re: Moving post.

Hi, CountryBoy.
That's fine by me. I knew it wasn't the right place for it but didn't know how to move it, much less if I was in a position to move it and I thought a reply would be of more benefit to the poster than telling him the original post was not in the right place.

Thanks for sorting it out.

 

[BlkAngusMan]

Thanks

Country Boy- Thanks for taking care of the mess i made.

Deas Plant- Thanks for the heads up on the repair. I think you are right about the Idler. Best i can tell it is just bolted on by 4 bolts. other than the weight of it it should be fairly simple. The track is what has me baffled. How do you know which pin/link is the master?

 

[Deas Plant]

Master link.

Hi, BlkAngusMan.
In SALT tracks (Sealed And Lubricated Track), each pin has a tapered hole in the end with a plug sealing the oil inside the pin. These tracks usually have bolt-up master links. These master links can be identified by the serrated joint running diagonally from the rail running face to the track shoe face of the link. Removing the four bolts holding the track shoe in place will break the link.

In earlier, non-SALT track, the master pin is an interference fit in the master link and must be driven in and driven out. These master pins usually have a tapered depression in one or both ends to identify them. You may have to check the inside ends of the pins if someone has put a one-ended master pin in back to front, with the ID mark on the inside. If the track has rock guards running full length along the bottom, you may have to move the tractor to find the master pin or link if it happens to be on the bottom when you start.

With the master pins, you need either a track pin press or a good heating torch, a large hammer and somebody with a strong back - and maybe a weak mind too - to swing said hammer. You will also need a GOOD drift with a good handle to drive the pin through the link.

A good freezer close to the work area or some dry ice will help in getting the master pin back in. Freeze the pin well beforehand and only take it from the freezer or the dry ice when you are completely ready to drive it back in. Be quick about it when you do.

Happy track-working.

 

[wrenchbender]

Master Deas Plant, tells the truth and for the sake of all that is good I hope yours has the bolt up master link on the chain. I keep a couple 14C's and a14E running for some local guys. One of the C's and the E have the good track system. The one C has the drive in pin for a master and requires a little heat (ROSE BUD TORCH) to remove. Main thing to watch on the bolt up system is don't cross thread the bolts and keep the dirt out of the threaded holes on reassembly. Fiat Allis is known for poor judgement when it comes to fastners.

 

[BlkAngusMan]

drive in drive out

guys,

i sit here on saturday afternoon in a soft cast after missing the mark trying to drive the master pin out and hitting my left hand.

i did not say a curse word but i did write one down on a peice of paper and put it in my pocket

i fully understand the process now and it look like i may need a press as heat did not work or at least not before i struck my hand.


hey wrenchbender, mine is a fl14b, pretty good shape except for the idler and i think i actually caused that problem by cracking the housing

thanks for all of the help! wish my tracks were bolt on.

 

[BlkAngusMan]

wrenchbender

where is belton?

 

[Komatsu 150]

guys,

i sit here on saturday afternoon in a soft cast after missing the mark trying to drive the master pin out and hitting my left hand..

Not trying to be a smart alleck,but if you were able to hit you left hand, you were swinging with the other and your hammer is nowhere near big enough. The old guy who used to do ours had a 24 lb. sledge - a two handed deal for sure.

 

[BlkAngusMan]

Must be stronger than the old man

I handle a 24lb sledge pretty good with one arm as my guns are enormous..........:bash, actually i would agree at this point that the hammer i was using was not big enough. As a matter of fact nothing i have used to work on this machine is big enough:beatsme

I own a technology company for my real job and am a weekend warrior on our Angus and Sheep farm in Central NC. I am not a Track Loader Mechanic but i have never been hesitant to try most anything.

What i have found is I, and my tools are a bit light in the shorts for working on these beasts.

I plan to call a local company to press the pin out. It would have been cheaper to do so from the beginning. and surely a lot less painful.

I respect your not so smart aleck remarks. :notworthy Pretty cool forum!

 

[wrenchbender]

where is belton?

Belton is about 30 miles due south of Greenville SC and 8 miles due east of Anderson SC. Where abouts in NC you from? Man I hate to hear that you smashed your hand that sucks big time. I use a drift with a 36" handle welded to it and I swing the hammer while a helper holds the drift handle.

 

[BlkAngusMan]

30 miles west of Winston-Salem

I know exactly where you are at i come down each year to a couple of Angus sales in your area. Black Grove in Newberry and Clemson for the Angus Futurity.

3.5 hour drive from here.

Should have known better to swing the hammer so hard in close proximity to my hand.

It actulally is not as bad as it sounds. Just made me feel dumb and sick to my stomach.

Were do you get your parts for the Fiat Allis Loaders you work on? I found a salvage company in PA, Stevens Equipment that has a bunch of part machines.

 

[surfer-joe]

I don't know if De Wind Machinery in Ft. Lauderdale is still handing stuff for Fat-Allis's or not, but you might try them.

 

[Deas Plant]

Application of kinetic energy to task at hand.

Hi, BlkAngusMan.
To achieve any physical result, the kinetic energy developed by swinging the hammer must be applied DIRECTLY to the punch or drift, which must be DIRECTLY in contact with the master pin AND in a DIRECT line with the pin along the axis of its length. Using your hand as a cushioning device to prevent damage to hammer, drift or pin is almost always counter-productive. If said hand is not even in a direct line with the punch/drift or pin, there is likely be even less physical effort transferred to the pin amd even less resultant movement of said pin. LOL.

Sorry to hear about your little 'misadventure'. Hope it heals well and quickly.

 

[wrenchbender]

Were do you get your parts for the Fiat Allis Loaders you work on? I found a salvage company in PA, Stevens Equipment that has a bunch of part machines.

For new parts we use OLD STONE TRACTOR co. in Anderson or Greenville Ford Tractor of Greenville. For used stuff we call Bakers Salvage in Bishopville SC. Well they are now under a new name I think it's now Abilene Machinery I'll check when I get back out to the shop on monday and let ya know fer sure.

 

[BlkAngusMan]

Bull headed

Hi, BlkAngusMan.
To achieve any physical result, the kinetic energy developed by swinging the hammer must be applied DIRECTLY to the punch or drift, which must be DIRECTLY in contact with the master pin AND in a DIRECT line with the pin along the axis of its length. Using your hand as a cushioning device to prevent damage to hammer, drift or pin is almost always counter-productive. If said hand is not even in a direct line with the punch/drift or pin, there is likely be even less physical effort transferred to the pin amd even less resultant movement of said pin. LOL.

Sorry to hear about your little 'misadventure'. Hope it heals well and quickly.

If i had the right tools i could fix it thanks to your help. Had you mentioned not absorbing kinetic energy with my hand in your instructions i would have listened.

All jokes aside, i have hired a heavy equipment mechanic to come out and press the pin first of the week. Guess i am getting soft sitting behind my desk to much.......

Operating the loader is much more fun than working on it anyways.

Hope all is well in queensland

 

[Deas Plant]

Here In Queensland.

Hi, BlkAngusMan.
I have yet to read a workshop manual that tells the reader not to use his hands to absorb kinetic energy. I think that is usually considered as a 'given'. LOL.

I CAN assure you that having somebody with the correct equipment and some experience will be easier than trying to do it yourself. The hard part of that may be paying for it.

I have always believed that operating is more fun than repairing.

All is well here in Queensland, including my hands, thank you. LOL.