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Tips for removing nut on hydraulic cylinder

Discussion in 'Tractor/Loader/Backhoes' started by Steve111, Jul 13, 2019 at 10:38 PM.

  1. Steve111

    Steve111 Member

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    Hey guys I have a case 580k. Trying to get this dang 2 1/4in bolt out of the end of this rod and having a hard time. Is there red loc tite in these threads or something? Had about 8 foot bar in this thing with no movement. How does everyone get these off? Should I be breaking out the torch to heat it up?
     
  2. nova481

    nova481 Well-Known Member

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    Hi Steve
    I just did the swing cylinder on my 580C. Yes, there is red thread locker on the bolt, all I had was a small torch with Mapp gas and a Harbor Freight laser thermometer. I propped the torch up right at the head of the bolt and let it get to 600 degrees, took 6 minutes. It came right off.
    Ron
     
  3. AzIron

    AzIron Senior Member

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    A big impact is what I have always used to take them apart
     
    john hofer likes this.
  4. Steve111

    Steve111 Member

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    How big are we talking? Bigger then 1/2 ingersoll rand titanium?
     
  5. Delmer

    Delmer Senior Member

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    he probably means a 3/4" or 1" impact. Your 8' bar shouldn't have any problem, you just need to heat it. I don't think you have to get it 600, try it when the steel of the cylinder rod will sizzle a drop of water.
     
  6. AzIron

    AzIron Senior Member

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    Yea 3/4 I put the 1 inch on a boom ram on a 420 last fall or get a multiplier I use a 4 to going back together I dont use the impact going back

    We did a swing cinder that we didn't the luxury of an impact for use the multiplier with a 5 foot cheater and 250 pounds of lard ass you be surprised how well it went
     
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  7. Steve111

    Steve111 Member

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    I am going to buy the 1in earthquake impact from harbor freight tomorrow and see how it does. Apparently rated at 2500 ft lbs. Good reviews too. I will update with results.
     
  8. Delmer

    Delmer Senior Member

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    Any gun is only as good as the air. Do you have a 1" hose? there's ways to cheat a little...

    Also, forgot to mention, once it's hot give the bolt a whack, and then put the lard on the cheater pipe.
     
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  9. Steve111

    Steve111 Member

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    The one at harbor freight is rated for 1/2in hose. Going to do the entire setup and see how it goes. My ingersoll rand compressor has a 1/2in output at the regulator so I should be able to get most of The torque from it.
     
  10. Steve111

    Steve111 Member

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    Couldn't get it with the 1in impact. Maybe I can heat it up with the oxy acetylene torch first then let it cool? There is definatly red lock tite on these?
     
  11. Delmer

    Delmer Senior Member

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    Surprise surprise. I have an old freon tank with a straight fitting going to a 3/4" hose about 4' long that connects directly to the gun, the tank fitting has a 3/8 air fitting coming in the side. You let the compressor turn on and once it turns off, your tank is full and you get one shot at the bolt before the air pressure drops, then you give it ten seconds and hit it again.

    If you haven't gotten it loose yet, there's probably locktite. Try the cheater bar when it's hot, the heat softens the locktite, it doesn't remove it. What would you accomplish letting it cool?
     
  12. Steve111

    Steve111 Member

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    I just don't want to hit that bolt with all that torque while it's cherry red. I'm afraid of destroying the head of it
     
  13. Steve111

    Steve111 Member

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    Heated the head of the bolt used cherry red with the rose bud tip and blasted with the 1in impact and it came right off. Now I know the secret
     
  14. Welder Dave

    Welder Dave Senior Member

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    Make sure to use the proper grade of new bolt when you put it back together. The cherry red heat will have destroyed the temper of the bolt. You don't want the bolt breaking.
     
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  15. dieseldog5.9

    dieseldog5.9 Well-Known Member

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    Check your compressors kick out pressure, work like that likes 150+ air pressure, 180 if you can get it, also I have seen guys hook up a 1/2 inch hose using 1/4 fittings kind of defeats the purpose.
     
    Coy Lancaster likes this.
  16. Steve111

    Steve111 Member

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    I have a single stage only so I got 135psi max. I hooked up directly to the regulator output which is 1/2 in and then directly to the air inlet on impact so I had no fittings. It's very strong. It was just that dang loctite that made it so difficult
     
  17. dieseldog5.9

    dieseldog5.9 Well-Known Member

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    When you hook that gun up to 180 psi, loctite will no longer be a problem, you will want two hands on it. Some cylinders can be tricky.
     
  18. Welder Dave

    Welder Dave Senior Member

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    I have never seen air tools rated for over 125 PSI. Most are rated for 90 PSI. Larger tools require more CFM but not more air pressure. That's why they make larger impact wrenches. Using over 125 PSI is bad advice in my opinion. It can be very dangerous to use too high a pressure. If a cylinder nut is that tight, take it to a shop with a proper cylinder bench.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2019 at 5:00 AM
  19. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    Air flow for me is always the key, provided the pressure is up somewhere around the 120 mark, some manufacturers specify less. For example Ingersoll Rand call for "clean, dry air at 90psig maximum air pressure at the tool inlet, unless a higher pressure is specified on the tool."
    My rule of thumb is that the air line diameter should be the same size as the drive on the impact wrench, so for a 1" wrench the hose should be 1" diameter, and make sure there are no bottlenecks such as restrictive fittings in the line. As an example I once found a 1" line that reduced to 1/2" to go through a filter, then stepped back up from 1/2" to 1" again - and people wondered why it wouldn't flow enough air for the air tools........... A bigger filter with 1" connections on it and voila...
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2019 at 10:50 AM
  20. kshansen

    kshansen Senior Member

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